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Which electronic ignition

Cheapsunglasses

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Hello everyone, I’m looking to change my ignition setup on my 68 GTX, with a low performance 440. I was running a Mallory unilite, but it has crapped out, and I’m considering changing it to factory style electronic, kinda tired of messing with 50 year old worn out stuff. Ive kinda narrowed down to 2 options, but I have questions about quality, and parts available, and maybe there’s something I haven’t considered.

First one I’m looking at is mopars conversation kit. Is it just offshore crap, or is it a quality piece? If I need to replace anything are parts available. And if it needs recurved is the parts available and easy to do?
Electronic Distributor Conversion Kit

The second one is Mancinis “hipo” unit. Same questions, is it a quality Mancini built piece, or is it rebranded Ching Chong? And what makes it “hipo”?
Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit, Hi-Po ECU

Any suggestions and help is appreciated!
 
Should work fine with your setup. The only issue is the Orange Box a Crap shoot for reliability. A few other options are Summit pretty much the same thing but free shipping. E- Booger from Mopar Action has a E-Bay store, Ricksparts IIRC uses a different module, That is what I have been running for about 6-7 years in mine with no issues. Made in Ching Chong, what isint. I also run a Mallory coil. The FBO system is probably the best, eliminates the ballast resistor too. Spendy but made in the USA worth it IMO.
 
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Should work fine with your setup. The only issue is the Orange Box a Crap shoot for reliability. A few other options are Summit pretty much the same thing but free shipping. E- Booger from Mopar Action has a E-Bay store, Ricksparts IIRC uses a different module, That is what I have been running for about 6-7 years in mine with no issues. Made in Ching Chong, what isint. I also run a Mallory coil. The FBO system is probably the best, eliminates the ballast resistor too. Spendy but made in the USA worth it IMO.
Thanks! Yeah I like the fbo system, but it’s a little expensive, $260 for the box, then $100 for a distributor. That’s kinda why I’m sticking with these options, and maybe going fbo down the road. I was thinking coming from Mancini it would help quality, but who knows anymore lol.
 
Many options here.
Another factory style option would be just get a module from RockAuto, maybe buy the more expensive one to run and a cheap one for a backup.

I put in a 77 Fury 360 (my first car)
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Spend the money for FBO is my experience.
I've run them daily for years with no issues.
Thousands of miles.
Reliability is most important to me.
I've been stranded by after market systems and every other MOPAR style ECU is a a gamble.
A factory style distributor is fine.
Halifaxhops sells fresh OE ones.
(And maybe some old stock tested ECUs)
 
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Just remembered I have a new orange Mopar ECU I would sell for a very reasonable price.
I also have the 5 pin plug and harness which is new as well.
PM me if you're interested.
 
Years ago, I had a 318 in the car. Before my 1st 440 swap, I converted the wiring to the famous Mopar Performance electronic ignition. Since then, the system has performed well for the most part but occasionally, I'll get a "no spark" condition where it cranks and cranks but won't start. During this time when it won't fire up, I've changed ballast resistors, colis, ECUs, distributors and even voltage regulators. As odd as it sounds, sometimes it suddenly starts and runs normally after any one of those changes. To me, this indicates that I may have just had a loose connection somewhere or that some sadistic person has a voodoo doll of my car and screws with me just for fun.
The previous generation Mopar Performance distributor is supposed to be a modified Accel or Mallory unit that was scaled down to fit a Mopar. Our B/RB distributors have a small space to work in so the size of the distributor is limited. That scaled down aftermarket distributor has light advance weights that supposedly cause fluctuating timing and spark scatter. Rick Ehrenberg claims that you can see the timing light/timing mark bounce around and move back and forth with the engine at any rpm.
I still have mine but have considered a switch to something better. I want vacuum advance though. It does help with fuel economy. Yeah, these are not economy cars but 2 mpg spread out over a 19 gallon tank could mean driving to the next gas station or filling up early when you still have 3/4 tank.
 
Years ago, I had a 318 in the car. Before my 1st 440 swap, I converted the wiring to the famous Mopar Performance electronic ignition. Since then, the system has performed well for the most part but occasionally, I'll get a "no spark" condition where it cranks and cranks but won't start. During this time when it won't fire up, I've changed ballast resistors, colis, ECUs, distributors and even voltage regulators. As odd as it sounds, sometimes it suddenly starts and runs normally after any one of those changes. To me, this indicates that I may have just had a loose connection somewhere or that some sadistic person has a voodoo doll of my car and screws with me just for fun.
The previous generation Mopar Performance distributor is supposed to be a modified Accel or Mallory unit that was scaled down to fit a Mopar. Our B/RB distributors have a small space to work in so the size of the distributor is limited. That scaled down aftermarket distributor has light advance weights that supposedly cause fluctuating timing and spark scatter. Rick Ehrenberg claims that you can see the timing light/timing mark bounce around and move back and forth with the engine at any rpm.
I still have mine but have considered a switch to something better. I want vacuum advance though. It does help with fuel economy. Yeah, these are not economy cars but 2 mpg spread out over a 19 gallon tank could mean driving to the next gas station or filling up early when you still have 3/4 tank.
Thanks! I agree completely on the fuel economy, if you’re building a car that’s mostly street, you want to take on road trips, and drive a lot, every bit counts
 
I’m looking for the best quality cheapest setup, I feel an intake swap might be coming soon too, and those aren’t cheap either. I know good and cheap don’t always mix
:lol:
 
I’m looking for the best quality cheapest setup, I feel an intake swap might be coming soon too, and those aren’t cheap either. I know good and cheap don’t always mix
:lol:
This is why I’ve converted back to points. Nothing could be more simple, and I’ve never been walking with points. Three times stuck with electronic ignition.

yes they need a little maintenance, but keeping lube on the cam and adjusting dwell every 5,000 miles is not too difficult.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone!

I know points ignition is superior, that’s why every new car being built has it :poke:

I’m still a little curious on the Mancinis kit, is there really anything making it $20 more? What does “hipo” ECU mean, is it any better quality, does it have a better curve in it?

Does it really matter for an engine that mostly runs 2-3,000rpm, with the occasional “carburetor cleaning” 4-5,000 rpm bursts
 
I have a thirty year old Mopar electronic conversion in one car, and a forty year old Mopar cast iron tach drive electronic distributor with a Mallory box and coil in the other. Both have been trouble free for decades.
I honestly don't know what I would get today, if I needed to replace either. Probably an msd, but I wouldn't like to.
 
I understand R413s point of view.
My problem with points is the quality of parts currently available. Quality (accel) high rpm points haven't been available for twenty years, and I would trust a thirty year old condenser much more than a brand new one.
I would have no problem putting my prestolite dual point back in..... but I ain't putting new points and condenser in it.
(I still have an accel dual point distributor for a Chevy with point springs that would hold up a garage door!).
 
I understand R413s point of view.
My problem with points is the quality of parts currently available. Quality (accel) high rpm points haven't been available for twenty years, and I would trust a thirty year old condenser much more than a brand new one.
I would have no problem putting my prestolite dual point back in..... but I ain't putting new points and condenser in it.
(I still have an accel dual point distributor for a Chevy with point springs that would hold up a garage door!).
I understand it too, I have a Mallory dual point in it now, it’s my trunk dizzy, just in case I need it. And that’s also the reason I don’t want to use it, lack quality points
 
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