Which Oil AFTER Initial Break In?

[ykf7b0]

I'm using Brad Penn 30 break in oil for first firing of my rebuilt engine but after the initial 20-30 minute break in for a hydraulic flat tappet cam it is my understanding that synthetic oils are not encouraged for use until after 5000 miles. I'm thinking this includes partial synthetics including Brad Penn and Valvoline VR 1. What are you guys putting in after the first session of break in with your hydraulic flat tappet cams?

 

[66Satellite47]

My understanding is depends on which style camshaft & lifters you run. A solid lifter needs the added zinc from some of the high grade race oils, Brad Penn is one my builder recommends, VR1 seems in the same category. If you have a roller, your choices seem much wider.

 

[miller]

You can also add hydraulic lifters in the mix...still needs ZDDP. Personally, I also consider my engine clearances.

Loaded question on which oil. Broke mine in with VR-1 30wt, after 500 miles, going to VR-1 40wt. Builder's choice!
It's my understanding, going by a write-up on it, even on the racing oils, the ZDDP rules by the EPA, do not apply to single wt oil, but does for multi-wt.

 

[ykf7b0]

Again, hydraulic flat tappet cam and clearances are spec. The question applies after the initial 20-30 minute break in. The weight of the oil is not in question as is the type of oil. From what I've read so far conventional oil is recommended by all hydraulic flat tappet cam manufacturers but have low levels of zinc therefore necessitating a zinc additive. The object is to keep the lifters spinning in their bores till a wear pattern is developed and full synthetics could be a deterrent due to it being much slicker in nature. Are partial synthetics including Brad Penn and Valvoline VR 1 which are high in zinc but are a synthetic blend being used commonly with success based on your experiences?

 

[moparnation74]

I use Brad Penn, VR1 is a second choice....

 

[ykf7b0]

I have just learned that Valvoline has VR1 Racing oil in conventional form and is high zinc content. Before learning this I was thinking that all VR1 oils were semi-synthetics. Does Brad Penn offer a conventional oil as well? If so, where do you get it?

 

[66Satellite47]

I think Brad Penn is conventional. Could be wrong. Good stuff.

 

[Zeppelin264]

Brad Penn is a semi synthetic. As far as I know it's the only oil to have enough ZDDP added for flat tappet cams.

That's what I run.

 

[747mopar]

Brad Penn is a semi synthetic. As far as I know it's the only oil to have enough ZDDP added for flat tappet cams.

That's what I run.

Nah, I know guys who have been running Rotella for years with zero problems. I've used VR1, Lucas, Lucas additive with conventional oil and now Schaeffers. So far Schaeffers is the only oil that I've seen a significant difference in (doesn't loose nearly as much pressure once warmed up) but all of them worked just fine.

 

[threewood]

Use the VR1 silver bottles in whatever weight is recommended. High zddp, gets rated high for flat tappets and is half the price of Joe Gibbs or Brad Penn.

 

[oldbee]

Also the 'non-use' of synthetic is to make sure the piston rings get seated-in.

 

[ykf7b0]

Use the VR1 silver bottles in whatever weight is recommended. High zddp, gets rated high for flat tappets and is half the price of Joe Gibbs or Brad Penn.

Thanks! I wasn't even aware that Valvoline had VR1 in conventional form until earlier today. I bought a 1/2 case at O'Reilly's so my search is over.

 

[Zeppelin264]

Nah, I know guys who have been running Rotella for years with zero problems. I've used VR1, Lucas, Lucas additive with conventional oil and now Schaeffers. So far Schaeffers is the only oil that I've seen a significant difference in (doesn't loose nearly as much pressure once warmed up) but all of them worked just fine.

Rotella used to be good for Zinc content. They have changed the formula as of a year or two ago.

 

[oldbee]

Rotella used to be good for Zinc content. They have changed the formula as of a year or two ago.

Aahh the old "let's change the mix for catalytic converters" thing. Gotta hate it.

 

[Dennis H]

Amsoil Signature Synthetic 10-40. High Zinc.

 

[khryslerkid]

Also the 'non-use' of synthetic is to make sure the piston rings get seated-in.

The cam break-in is only part of useing the break-in oil. Now you need to get 500 miles on your engine before changing to something else. Letting off the gas, (back pressure), let's the rings seat from the normal pulling direction. Getting those rings properly seated is as important as breaking in the cam.

I did my 20 min cam break-in, then changed my 30wt break-in oil and filter for fresh 30wt break-in oil and filter. OCD, overkill, maybe, but I just do things that way.

Now depending on what my oil pressure ends up being after 500 miles, then I'll determine what weight oil I'll be running. If it's running high, I'll use a lighter oil, say 10w30. If it's running low, I'll be useing a heavier oil, say 20w50. I'm not ruling out changing oil pressure springs either.

 

[Dennis H]

Break-in now defined as bench testing or Dyno? Who knew. My error.

 

[threewood]

The cam break-in is only part of useing the break-in oil. Now you need to get 500 miles on your engine before changing to something else. Letting off the gas, (back pressure), let's the rings seat from the normal pulling direction. Getting those rings properly seated is as important as breaking in the cam.

I did my 20 min cam break-in, then changed my 30wt break-in oil and filter for fresh 30wt break-in oil and filter. OCD, overkill, maybe, but I just do things that way.

Now depending on what my oil pressure ends up being after 500 miles, then I'll determine what weight oil I'll be running. If it's running high, I'll use a lighter oil, say 10w30. If it's running low, I'll be useing a heavier oil, say 20w50. I'm not ruling out changing oil pressure springs either.

I heard from a few old timers and engine builders to pull some half throttle runs and let off, repeat. My understanding is that cylinder pressure will push the rings out and help bed them. I did several spirited runs in my rebuilt poly and never have had an issue with blow by or solid lifter cam lobes after. And I can say the same for my 440 although it has much lower mileage.

 

[oldbee]

I heard from a few old timers and engine builders to pull some half throttle runs and let off, repeat. My understanding is that cylinder pressure will push the rings out and help bed them. I did several spirited runs in my rebuilt poly and never have had an issue with blow by or solid lifter cam lobes after. And I can say the same for my 440 although it has much lower mileage.

++1

 

[PeteBell68]

Nah, I know guys who have been running Rotella for years with zero problems. I've used VR1, Lucas, Lucas additive with conventional oil and now Schaeffers. So far Schaeffers is the only oil that I've seen a significant difference in (doesn't loose nearly as much pressure once warmed up) but all of them worked just fine.

Rotella has changed the formula so you will need to put additive in after adding it's good oil .
I use the 20/50 Brad Penn you don't need the additive then .