Which side of fuse box is protected?

Electrical & Ignition

  1. JG1966

    JG1966 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    I am running a couple of glass fuse taps to power my aftermarket gauge/tach, and I want to make sure I haven't bypassed the fuses. Which side of the fuse should the taps go to make sure I don't have an unprotected circuit? (Fuse box is internet photo, but same one I have). Thanks
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  2. Kern Dog

    Kern Dog FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    While this fuse panel is for my '70 Charger, the principles will be the same. The top row is the power input from the harness. See the solid strips of 3 terminals then 2 terminals? Never tap into those terminals for power accessories UNLESS you have an inline fuse. The bottom terminals are on the other side of the fuse and is protected by them.


    1 fuse box.jpg
     
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    • JG1966

      JG1966 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      Thanks Kern Dog. On my fuse box, those "solid strips" of terminals are on the inside of the fuse box (closer to the middle). So I want my tabs on the other side, toward the outside. That's where I put them. Thanks. Now I just need to figure out how to get rid of those tabs and power my extra wires some other way.:)
       
      Last edited: Mar 12, 2021
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      • 493 Mike

        493 Mike FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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        Just pop out a fuse and check each terminal for power. Dead side is downstream from fuse/protection.
        Mike
         
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        • JG1966

          JG1966 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          Thanks Mike, I want the tab on the side without power, correct?:
           
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          • HALIFAXHOPS

            HALIFAXHOPS MSGT(ret) and MOPAR only distributor rebuilder! FBBO Gold Member

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            Yes then the fuse will protect it. If it is high draw you might have to up the fuse, a tach should not matter.
             
            Last edited: Mar 12, 2021
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            • Nacho-RT74

              Nacho-RT74 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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              on that fusebox buss bars are riveted in the middle of the fuse box... the output from fuses is outward on both sides ( one side is BATT the other side is keyed ACC ), so that would be the correct place for a fused source.

              Underdash harness gets fused sources around already disposed. For the tach you can grab the ACC source from a feed located close to the brake pedal area. Its a yellow rubber mold with a 3 female bullet terminals provision on a tan wire.

              I'll try to find a pic of that
               
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              • Nacho-RT74

                Nacho-RT74 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                found a pic... on this, the circled plug numbered 1. That's is in fact a feed used for the stock tach, also used for the rear deffog and A/C compressor clutch ( which is in fact plugged there ). It already comes from a 20 amps fuse on fusebox

                so you don't need to reinvent the wheel

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                Just get a male bullet terminal like this to attach there and you will be done

                images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSkavYZLuBiOIBmgJtBIvEATPHQfsALzV3vkg&usqp=CAU.jpg
                 
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                • JG1966

                  JG1966 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                  Thanks Nacho!! I didn't know that yellow molding was a switched power source. The car is originally an AC car so I know I have some open spots on the yellow molding. I already have some of those male connectors from when I hooked up the lights on the gauges to the orange mold. That will help me get rid of some of those tabs. Thank you!
                   
                • JG1966

                  JG1966 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                  Hey Nacho. Thanks again. I have a question. I have aftermarket gauges for tranny oil temp and oil pressure. Can I tie those two red "power" wires together in one male connector and use that in the yellow rubber mold (assuming it won't be too thick to fit in the back of the male connector)? Or do they each need a "separate" spot?
                   
                  Last edited: Mar 12, 2021
                • Nacho-RT74

                  Nacho-RT74 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                  your cluster already gets one only source and wire for all gauges being feeded throught the voltage limiter... so why not the same for aftermarket gauges?. Sure you can.

                  As far the total of the accesories connected on that mold don't exceed 20 amps you can source anything from here.
                   
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                  • JG1966

                    JG1966 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                    Thanks Nacho. I really appreciate it. But I'm stumped. My yellow mold for accessories (with tan and black wire) has one wire with a male connector going into it. It's yellow (I think) with a black tracer. I looked at my wiring diagrams and the only wires I can find that are supposed to go there are for 1. AC, 2. Rear defogger and 3. Tach. I don't have AC, rear defogger or factory tach.
                    And those wires are supposed to be either light green with a tracer (AC), light green (rear defogger) or dark blue (tach). Nothing yellow with a tracer, and I'd like to use that spot if I can dead end this wire.
                    I think it could be light green (it sure looks yellow) with a tracer, which would be for my AC, which is long gone and would make sense.
                    My question is ---- Is the tracer on yellow wires on old Mopars always white? That would answer my question.
                    Or if yellow wires sometimes have a black tracer, is there another accessory this could be powering that I can't find on the wiring diagrams?
                    Thank you!
                     
                    Last edited: Mar 12, 2021
                  • 72RoadrunnerGTX

                    72RoadrunnerGTX FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                    There is a yellow with tracer wire with male bullet connector in the time delay harness but it should not be plugged in to the three-way yellow molded acc tap. Should go to a single female bullet connection.


                    time delay.JPG
                     
                  • JG1966

                    JG1966 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                    Thanks 72RR. I'm fairly certain that's not it. I'm thinking it's a light green wire that just looks yellow. Do you know if yellow wires ever have a black tracer? Or only light green wires?
                     
                  • 72RoadrunnerGTX

                    72RoadrunnerGTX FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                    Yes, some door switch circuits are yellow/black trace, as is the time relay door trigger. Mopar’s from this era didn’t designate in the diagrams a specific trace color. It either had a trace or it didn’t. Trace colors were mainly just a contrasting color of the base color.
                     
                  • JG1966

                    JG1966 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                    Thanks 72 RR. I pulled it and taped it up. I suspect it's the AC wire. I used the yellow molding to get rid of all of my fuse box taps. It's much cleaner now. And everything that worked before it still working, so whatever that wire is, I don't need it. Thanks again.
                     
                  • Nacho-RT74

                    Nacho-RT74 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                    What color is the mold on that wire you think is yellow but maybe is faded light green ? Usually molds color should match the source molds color it plugs to... althought I have seen batt and cluster light circuits with black molds and they still conect into the red and orange molds respectively... but wire colors still match the circuit it plugs to on these.


                    Just for extra info:

                    on 71 the time delay flasher feeds not just the ign key light but also the seatbelt warning light. Can't see if your car is 71 or 72, but I guess 71 being with the color keyed bumper?

                    HkKKupDEh072iP0F4ACdpfetw_WjfnInIyZ7Nmem4WcdpVjQY8V_M6QFNTcyTbLO0sRPNV4CLd9iHG5krRguLssfEjUOaKiA.png

                    You can just connect it into the right mold and you are done! Connect that wire which should handle ground into a positive source shouldn't have burnt anything because is just designed to trig the flasher on to feed the bulbs from the batt positive. Being just a trigger signal it won't hurt anything, simply wouldn't make it work.

                    Assuming the flasher is there and in working order, you will get back that function. If bulbs are fine too of course.

                    About trace colors. Sometimes the trace colors are specified. I.E front turning signals, which for whatever reason become black on forward lighting harness, and the trace color meets the color they had into the cab, light green or tan, each one for each side.

                    It happens also similar with parking lights circuit on some years, where into the cab the wiring for them is yellow with black trace ( just like the door ground on some years... 71/72 for example as we can notice ) but as soon it leaves the cab these colors are reversed and become into a black with yellow trace.

                    And more info:
                    since 73 the door ground circuits were simplified from 3 wires 71/72 had ( black, yellow and yellow traced on driver side door ) into 2 wires ( black and yellow, not anymore the yellow traced ).
                     
                    Last edited: Mar 13, 2021
                  • JG1966

                    JG1966 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                    Thanks Nacho. She's a 72, and the molding is definitely yellow, which is why I assumed right off the bat that the wire was yellow. But I think it must be green with a tracer (AC wire).
                    I'm not showing a low fuel relay on my wiring diagrams anywhere (only on Furys and Chryslers, according to my diagrams). I do have the ignition key light delay, which actually still works. But if I have low fuel and/or seat belt warning lights, I can't find them anywhere on my wiring diagrams and they have never worked since I got the car in the late 1980s.
                     
                  • Nacho-RT74

                    Nacho-RT74 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                    Low fuel it was a driver's aid option just for 71s and is hard to find a car with that option equipped.

                    Can't be added on 72/74s without some wiring mods ( or bulb socket mods on insert ) thought because the seatbelt light and drivers aid light was constant negative and activated by positive on 71s, while on 72/74s the seatbelt light was constant positive and turned on by negative.

                    The 72/73 seatbelt warning system setup information can be found on the master technician conference manual. It consist on a relay which gets the seats and seatbelts sensors signal, the transmision neutral signal and the Ign1 ( run ) circuit signal, to turn on the warning light and the buzzer for it
                     
                    Last edited: Mar 13, 2021
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                    • JG1966

                      JG1966 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                      Thanks Nacho. I'm just glad my fuel gauge works properly and accurately! I did find the seat belt warning on my wiring diagram but it doesn't work. I'm sure someone got sick of that buzzer and yanked it long ago. I do appreciate all your help. I've learned a lot and I'm gonna study these wiring diagrams some more. They used to be very confusing to me but something has clicked and now I'm seeing it more clearly
                       
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