Why do I keep on blowing voltage regulators?

[mpro69rr]

Hey Guys,

As the title says. 69 RR 383 4 speed, everything is new including the wiring, power master 95 amp alt, starter relay, engine, electronic pertronix III distributor and I did the MAD wiring. Now, I did find the field and ground wire going to the alt loose which I fixed after I put this new VR in, could that have caused the problem? This last time the car wouldn't even start, the time before the VR would not charge the battery. This is the third or forth VR I have replaced, all solid state as the electronic pertronix dist requires it. Of course the VR's are the cheapo's from O'riellys auto parts, could that be the problem? I ordered another one in case I blow this one from FBO, it looks like better quality. I also do not have my interior switches and steering column hooked up yet but I don't think that would cause a problem.

Thanks!

 

[4mulas]

Recently I went through 3 old ones to find one good one. this was to replace a new one I bought that liked to charge 16 volts... new stuff is ****.

 

[BanginGears]

Check out my old threads from a few days ago. I just cooked my battery from one of those cheap *** date coded voltage regulators. Was charging 16.3+.
Drove it for 25 minutes on the highway. Went to start it up after a night out parked and battery was dead.
Just ordered another one. I found a 12 year old spare. Voltage is dead on but it's the weird style blue one.

 

[mpro69rr]

Check out my old threads from a few days ago. I just cooked my battery from one of those cheap *** date coded voltage regulators. Was charging 16.3+.
Drove it for 25 minutes on the highway. Went to start it up after a night out parked and battery was dead.
Just ordered another one. I found a 12 year old spare. Voltage is dead on but it's the weird style blue one.

I checked the charging on the new one and its fine.

 

[mpro69rr]

Anyone else have any ideas? It looks like these cheap ones suck. Would anything else cause this? I hope the one I ordered from FBO works good.

 

[Cojohnso1]

Body ground? Especially if you have any updated electronics like an aftermarket stereo? If it's not fully grounding? It will return back to the source. And regulator is in that path? Re-ground engine to body. As well as negative batt?

 

[Cranky]

Doesn't the regulator have to be grounded too? Make sure that's done. Bad grounds are usually 90% of electrical problems.

 

[mpro69rr]

Body ground? Especially if you have any updated electronics like an aftermarket stereo? If it's not fully grounding? It will return back to the source. And regulator is in that path? Re-ground engine to body. As well as negative batt?

Yes, its grounded to the head and the battery is grounded to the other head. Does it make a difference if they are aluminum heads?

 

[mpro69rr]

Doesn't the regulator have to be grounded too? Make sure that's done. Bad grounds are usually 90% of electrical problems.

See above reply.

 

[747mopar]

Yes, its grounded to the head and the battery is grounded to the other head. Does it make a difference if they are aluminum heads?

No, aluminum is a better conductor anyways.

 

[451Mopar]

'69 and earlier style or 70 and up style regulator?
Inspect he brush holders and screws to make sure they are insulating the brushes from ground.
It does sound like the regulators are low quality. You could check to see how much current the alternators field winding is pulling?
I have used the TransPo C8313 adjustable regulator on the Charger that is using a Denso 136-Amp Regulator as it has been working good so far.
https://www.ebay.com/p/21008119615
The adjustability lets me tweek the output (if needed) for the charge voltage at the trunk mounted battery.

On QuickStarts page, it says the regulator is good for up to 10-Amps output the the rotor (Field current.)
https://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoc8313.aspx

 

[Sixpactogo]

I think the loose wires you found in your initial post could have been the culprit. Loose connections and bad grounds wreak all kinds of havoc on our electrical systems. Time will tell of course but you may have solved your problem already.

 

[mpro69rr]

'69 and earlier style or 70 and up style regulator?
Inspect he brush holders and screws to make sure they are insulating the brushes from ground.
It does sound like the regulators are low quality. You could check to see how much current the alternators field winding is pulling?
I have used the TransPo C8313 adjustable regulator on the Charger that is using a Denso 136-Amp Regulator as it has been working good so far.
https://www.ebay.com/p/21008119615
The adjustability lets me tweek the output (if needed) for the charge voltage at the trunk mounted battery.

On QuickStarts page, it says the regulator is good for up to 10-Amps output the the rotor (Field current.)

1969 RR old stile VR. I'll check that one out, thanks!

 

[mpro69rr]

I think the loose wires you found in your initial post could have been the culprit. Loose connections and bad grounds wreak all kinds of havoc on our electrical systems. Time will tell of course but you may have solved your problem already.

Yes, the field wire and ground wire were real loose, I could just grab the wire and they would almost fall off. They are on tight now, I hope that was my problem!

 

[451Mopar]

Old style more likely to burn up the regulator if the field brush was going to ground (constant or intermittently.) The regulator is between the alternator power and ignition power.
New style would be a direct short to ignition power, and hope it blows the fuseable link before smoking the wires and bulkhead connectors.