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Why I don't like watching "car guy" TV shows.

Brewzer67

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So I'm watching Power Nation this morning (last week's episode) and see their Trick Flow 270 big block build. Instead of showing users the right way to do things, they show this crap:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/nvJf811hA2AZvetF3
nvJf811hA2AZvetF3

Nice way to ruin a perfectly good pair of headers.
Then, later on in the episode they show where they drilled into the collector right at the end of where one of the individual cylinder tubes merges to put an O2 sensor. Nice way to disrupt flow at a critical point. Why not just move it to the other side of the flange into the actual exhaust? That way your header doesn't rust.
 
So I'm watching Power Nation this morning (last week's episode) and see their Trick Flow 270 big block build. Instead of showing users the right way to do things, they show this crap:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/nvJf811hA2AZvetF3
nvJf811hA2AZvetF3

Nice way to ruin a perfectly good pair of headers.
Then, later on in the episode they show where they drilled into the collector right at the end of where one of the individual cylinder tubes merges to put an O2 sensor. Nice way to disrupt flow at a critical point. Why not just move it to the other side of the flange into the actual exhaust? That way your header doesn't rust.
I cut my head studs off because of that no clearance situation. 02 BUNGS SHOULD BE right after the collector to give a true reading.
 
02 BUNGS SHOULD BE right after the collector to give a true reading.

at the shop we install headers from TTI with the O2 bung installed by TTI before the collector. You can get a true reading for your AFR gauge as long as the sensor is after the four collector pipes. These headers are for a hemi motor that was in a 69 RR. We install headers from TTI with the O2 bung all the time if the owner want to use a AFR gauge. Then we tune the carb on a chassis dyno before we return the car to it's own.
6-1-hemi-headers-ceramic-coated-with-a-thermal-barrier-45.jpg
 
So I'm watching Power Nation this morning (last week's episode) and see their Trick Flow 270 big block build. Instead of showing users the right way to do things, they show this crap:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/nvJf811hA2AZvetF3
nvJf811hA2AZvetF3

Nice way to ruin a perfectly good pair of headers.
Then, later on in the episode they show where they drilled into the collector right at the end of where one of the individual cylinder tubes merges to put an O2 sensor. Nice way to disrupt flow at a critical point. Why not just move it to the other side of the flange into the actual exhaust? That way your header doesn't rust.

Not very attractive, but as long as there is not a structural issue or the header flange doesn't leak, it works. What would you recommend? Also, O2 sensors are placed in the collector on the header side of the flange. Every mfr. recommends that.
 
Not very attractive, but as long as there is not a structural issue or the header flange doesn't leak, it works. What would you recommend? Also, O2 sensors are placed in the collector on the header side of the flange. Every mfr. recommends that.
fast doesn`t.
 
I watch some of the shows with interest in learning tips; but find they tend to bypass some of the more tricky or interesting stuff while keeping the camera and details on things most people with average knowledge already know like installing gaskets, torqueing bolts, and putting valve covers on! Suppose it saves camera/editing time to toss together a half-hour show.
 
Not very attractive, but as long as there is not a structural issue or the header flange doesn't leak, it works. What would you recommend? Also, O2 sensors are placed in the collector on the header side of the flange. Every mfr. recommends that.
I would recommend getting the right length studs or shortening the ones you have. I run the same heads with TTI headers and have the same issue but didn't hack my headers to fix it. I fixed it with shorter studs that don't interfere. With the amount that they gouged out of those header flanges those are just a leak waiting to happen. As far as the placement on the sensor goes, my Innovate DLG-1 specifically states to mount the sensor "after the collector". Almost all of the other AFR units I looked at all said the same thing as well.
 
I watch some of the shows with interest in learning tips; but find they tend to bypass some of the more tricky or interesting stuff while keeping the camera and details on things most people with average knowledge already know like installing gaskets, torqueing bolts, and putting valve covers on! Suppose it saves camera/editing time to toss together a half-hour show.
Yeah, I understand the short timeframe piece. It would just be nice if they would focus on the useful stuff instead of the fluff.
 
I would recommend getting the right length studs or shortening the ones you have. I run the same heads with TTI headers and have the same issue but didn't hack my headers to fix it. I fixed it with shorter studs that don't interfere. With the amount that they gouged out of those header flanges those are just a leak waiting to happen. As far as the placement on the sensor goes, my Innovate DLG-1 specifically states to mount the sensor "after the collector". Almost all of the other AFR units I looked at all said the same thing as well.

They also say weld the bung at least 24 inches downstream of the exhaust port. We found over the years after dyno testing hundreds of motors placing the 02 sensor after the collector will give you false readings if you have a leaky collector gasket. I guess TTI and all other major companies that place the 02 sensor in their headers after the 4 collector pipes in the collector have no idea what they are doing!!!!!
 
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The producers of these shows have no way of knowing if the information the "stars" provide is correct or constitutes the best approach.
 
Also letting Ion go was a huge mistake. The 2 clowns that took his spot are not very good.
 
Watched an old episode of Garage Squad last night. They were working on a guy's Super Bee. The car would not start and they diagnosed the problem as no spark. So they promptly rebuilt the carb and the car started. I got lost between the diagnosis and the apparent solution which don't seem related.
 
Watched an old episode of Garage Squad last night. They were working on a guy's Super Bee. The car would not start and they diagnosed the problem as no spark. So they promptly rebuilt the carb and the car started. I got lost between the diagnosis and the apparent solution which don't seem related.
Hmmm...no spark check the fuel and no fuel check the spark; ok I got it now. After all these years I had this backwards..
 
They also say weld the bung at least 24 inches downstream of the exhaust port. We found over the years after dyno testing hundreds of motors placing the 02 sensor after the collector will give you false readings if you have a leaky collector gasket. I guess TTI and all other major companies that place the 02 sensor in their headers after the 4 collector pipes in the collector have no idea what they are doing!!!!!
I would assume the 24" downstream would apply for someone putting a bung in an individual header tube which would be a whole different application of the tool. I'm not saying it's wrong to put it in the collector. Your erroneous reading example is a valid one and a good reason to put it in the collector. On the show however, they had it mounted right at the end of one of the individual cylinder tubes in the collector. That position would skew the results to that cylinder. If you're going to put it in the collector (against the manufacturers recommendation), at least put it somewhere that will give you a shot at a good average reading. Both positions work and have their pluses and minuses. I prefer to keep my $700 headers intact and sacrifice the exhaust tubing to the eventual rust. Different bites for different likes...
 
I would assume the 24" downstream would apply for someone putting a bung in an individual header tube which would be a whole different application of the tool.

why would you put it in a individaul header tube? They also say weld the bung at least 24 inches downstream of the exhaust port that is what Innovate DLG-1 states, I'm sure they do not want it in a indiviaul header pipe, they are saying not to place the 02 sensor not less then 24 inches so you get a proper reading from the 02 sensor. I didn't mention anything about any car show in my posts did I? I was stating our experience with headers with the 02 bung in the collector so you get a the best reading from the sensor. That's why we suggest to customers to use headers with the 02 bung in the collector. Many customers have never heard of the 02 sensor bung in the collector, they always thought you had to put it after the collector. Did you even know that you could get TTI headers with the bung in the collector? Different strokes for different folks!!!
 
I would assume the 24" downstream would apply for someone putting a bung in an individual header tube which would be a whole different application of the tool.

why would you put it in a individaul header tube? They also say weld the bung at least 24 inches downstream of the exhaust port that is what Innovate DLG-1 states, I'm sure they do not want it in a indiviaul header pipe, they are saying not to place the 02 sensor not less then 24 inches so you get a proper reading from the 02 sensor. I didn't mention anything about any car show in my posts did I? I was stating our experience with headers with the 02 bung in the collector so you get a the best reading from the sensor. That's why we suggest to customers to use headers with the 02 bung in the collector. Many customers have never heard of the 02 sensor bung in the collector, they always thought you had to put it after the collector. Did you even know that you could get TTI headers with the bung in the collector? Different strokes for different folks!!!
You seem to want to argue about this which is not my intention. I don't know what Innovate's logic is with the 24" minimum. I would guess it has something to do with sensor reliability/accuracy issues due to heat but can't say. I could see an engine building shop that tunes to the Nth degree looking at ratios in individual cylinders hence a bung in each tube so they could confirm proper fuel distribution in the manifold. That level of tuning wouldn't be for everyone but it is something I would do if I were trying to ring out every ounce of power. I acknowledged you are correct that a false reading could occur mounting it after the collector. But I will stand by my decision to follow the manufacturer's recommendation and to give my headers the best chance to last longer. I am not an engine building shop, I'm am individual that already has headers without a preinstalled bung that is now adding it to my exhaust. Like I said, different bites for different likes. I will install it per the manufacturer's instructions and fix a collector leak if I have one.
 
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