Will it still leak (fuel sender gasket)?

[Dibbons]

After I replaced the float to repair the fuel gauge in the '72 Satellite Sebring Plus (see: "Introducing Project Odyssey") when I filled up the first time I had a substantial fuel leak. I offered free gas to two separate pick-up trucks getting gas behind me. After we pushed my vehicle out of the way, both drivers brought out gas cans and hose and helped themselves to a few gallons of gas so I could at least drive home without leaving a trail of flammable fluid behind me. One drive was kind enough to follow me home (just a five minute drive from the station). Keep in mind, this is Mexico so free gas was a good way to make instant friends I guess.

I ordered online a new gasket and lock ring and installed them today. I noticed the new lock ring (.074") was thicker than the one installed (.049") The new gasket (.061") was just a tiny bit thinner than the old one (.072"). Don't know if the old gasket was the correct fuel-resistant material but it worked for the last ten years (now I can see it starting to crack).

I have the special lock ring tool so I did not doubt that the new gasket and lock ring were good and tight after installation. However, I took photos because of the previous leak and did not want a repeat of that disaster. After looking at the photos enlarged on my laptop computer, I am not sure at all if everything is good and snug as it should be. I did notice with the tool it began to turn very easily and then just stopped dead. I did not try to force it after that point. What do you think? Tnank you.

 

[Bird 426]

You can try tapping the lock ring around to get it centered. I have had very poor luck with getting the sending unit sealed. If the sealing surface on the lock ring and tank are not perfectly flat, good chance of it leaking, and I tried all of the thicker this, thicker that, they are all in a box somewhere. I use an aircraft fuel tank sealer called Pro Seal, there are other names. I used it on both of my problem tanks, no leaks here.
Good luck. The simple fixes work for most people, just not for me!

 

[493 Mike]

Aren't the bumps on the ring supposed to be in the recesses in the tangs welded to the tank? To lock the ring in place.
Mike

 

[pnora]

Aren't the bumps on the ring supposed to be in the recesses in the tangs welded to the tank? To lock the ring in place.
Mike

They are. Plus the fit will get tighter as its a ramp to the lock position.

 

[oldchevelle541]

After I replaced the float to repair the fuel gauge in the '72 Satellite Sebring Plus (see: "Introducing Project Odyssey") when I filled up the first time I had a substantial fuel leak. I offered free gas to two separate pick-up trucks getting gas behind me. After we pushed my vehicle out of the way, both drivers brought out gas cans and hose and helped themselves to a few gallons of gas so I could at least drive home without leaving a trail of flammable fluid behind me. One drive was kind enough to follow me home (just a five minute drive from the station). Keep in mind, this is Mexico so free gas was a good way to make instant friends I guess.

I ordered online a new gasket and lock ring and installed them today. I noticed the new lock ring (.074") was thicker than the one installed (.049") The new gasket (.061") was just a tiny bit thinner than the old one (.072"). Don't know if the old gasket was the correct fuel-resistant material but it worked for the last ten years (now I can see it starting to crack).

I have the special lock ring tool so I did not doubt that the new gasket and lock ring were good and tight after installation. However, I took photos because of the previous leak and did not want a repeat of that disaster. After looking at the photos enlarged on my laptop computer, I am not sure at all if everything is good and snug as it should be. I did notice with the tool it began to turn very easily and then just stopped dead. I did not try to force it after that point. What do you think? Tnank you.

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I have to do mine soon but I think in your photo there is a raised dimple on the locking ring and I think that has to be set or seated under the raised corresponding dimple on the gas tank. It may not be fully seated yet.

 

[toolmanmike]

@HALIFAXHOPS had some nos lock rings at one time that were thicker than the repops.

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Still have a few 15 and the ride.

 

[YY1]

The new repro lock rings SUCK.

They are too thin and they are slightly smaller in diameter.

If you have an opportunity, get an OEM, even a used one (see above post)...get it.

Today's rubber compounds also SUCK.

The gasket that came with my repro tank only lasted a year.

I replaced it with a red, toilet flush valve gasket and that has been in for over a decade!

 

[Nxcoupe]

Keep rotating the lock ring til those little nubs on the ring go into the nubs on the tank tabs. You'll hear an audible click when you've gone far enough. Mine does not leak at all and it is all repro stuff. Also make sure the ring is centered. I use a hammer to tap the lock ring tool if the ring is stubborn. I also use lithium grease all over the ring, locking tabs and seal so it doesn't bunch the seal up. Good luck.

 

[YY1]

That's the problem with the repro lock rings.

They are slightly smaller in diameter on the outside edge, which allows them to pop out before they hit the stops.
You have to make a concerted effort to keep them centered and it just doesn't "feel" like a secure fit.

They are also too thin and that can cause them to bend instead of seat where they're supposed to.
...and again pop out. Might be during install, might be after you fill up.

The vibrations of normal driving can cause them to pop out.

NOT fun when that happens.

 

[Darter6]

I replaced it with a red, toilet flush valve gasket and that has been in for over a decade!

Sounds like a good idea !

 

[1967coronet]

I gave my gasket a shot of wd40 just to help with the lock down.
Little lube

 

[oldchevelle541]

Keep rotating the lock ring til those little nubs on the ring go into the nubs on the tank tabs. You'll hear an audible click when you've gone far enough. Mine does not leak at all and it is all repro stuff. Also make sure the ring is centered. I use a hammer to tap the lock ring tool if the ring is stubborn. I also use lithium grease all over the ring, locking tabs and seal so it doesn't bunch the seal up. Good luck.

good advice on the lithium grease.

 

[Dibbons]

Update: I got it to turn a little bit more (had to use hammer and screwdriver). I was not able to get it perfectly centered. Photo #1 is after tightening a second time and photo #2 is how it stood in post #1 when I had my doubts.

 

[Dibbons]

Still leaked after tightening:

Update here:

Leaky Fuel Sender Gasket Investigation ('72 Satellite)