Window motor rebuild

[fatecaptured]

I have searched this topic and have read the forcbodiesonly thread, but my issue isn't with the clutch system.

The motor won't turn, buzz, whine, or anything.
I've taken it apart, cleaned the insides, used a red scotch bright on the comuntator, and clean the contacts & brushes. Checked for continuity (ok up to the contacts) and no broken wires on the stator.

Still won't chooch. Is there a specific gap for the contacts? How do the contacts work? They don't open and close, so ?

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[fatecaptured]

Does the motor itself have to be grounded?

 

[Rockland71GTX]

Electricity flows through the coil in opposite directions in order to get the up/down action on the window, so there is no ground needed on the motor itself. Check for continuity across the wires, if theres no continuity the motor won't function. The other thing is the magnets in the body/barrel of the motor need to be in the right position to get the motor to work. When I cleaned and lubed my motors there was an alignment mark to help get it in the right place. It might have only been on the gear side, and then the brush side gets aligned with the bolts.

 

[fatecaptured]

Electricity flows through the coil in opposite directions in order to get the up/down action on the window, so there is no ground needed on the motor itself. Check for continuity across the wires, if theres no continuity the motor won't function. The other thing is the magnets in the body/barrel of the motor need to be in the right position to get the motor to work. When I cleaned and lubed my motors there was an alignment mark to help get it in the right place. It might have only been on the gear side, and then the brush side gets aligned with the bolts.

Thanks for the reply. I appreciate any help.

On the one I have the bottom of the case has a notch so it will only go one one way. The magnets are further down on the top or bottom(I think they are closer to the top side). So when I tried to install it upside down it wouldn't go in far enough to close.

I started checking continuity from the green and purple wires back. I think my problem is at the points. I'll dig into it again when I get home.

 

[fatecaptured]

I recorded the disassembly. There was continuity to both brushes from each wire( purple and green).

Perhaps the contacts aren't an issue. I guess I just don't understand why they are there and what purpose they serve.

Maybe I'm not checking the stator correctly. I was checking from the tiny copper wires to the groves in the stator. Is that correct?

I know the brushes are pretty worn, but I tightened up the spring tension by shiming the inside of the brush holder with pieces of 18g. I know I should replace the brushes, but just wanted to get it to spin before ordering new brushes.

 

[Rockland71GTX]

I'm not sure what it's called exactly, but in the bottom picture marked 'no gap' I believe is a thermal overload so the motor is protected from huge current draws. If you have continuity from the plug to the brushes the overload shouldn't be an issue. Have you checked across the armature? You should have continuity from one contact to the contact 180 degrees opposite. Put the armature in the end cap so the brushes contact as they would when the motor is assembled, hook your meter to the green and purple wires and look for continuity. Spin the armature to check for any dead spots in the windings.

 

[fatecaptured]

Hey thanks for the reply. And thanks for explaining what the purpose of those contacts are. I thought it was just a failure point. But overload protection makes perfect sense now.

I rechecked wires on the armature. All good. Then checked at the brushes. No continuity at the one brush.

The contact was the point of failure.

I was able to get a file in there and clean them up. I made sure they were connecting to each other and rechecked with the multimeter. Got continuity. Put it all back together and it worked!

 

[Rockland71GTX]

Glad it worked out for you!