Windshield Rubber replacement seals

[Mocajava]

A simple question or two about windshield rubber replacement. I have pulled all the windows out of my 69 Coronet and was told to leave the original rubber/seal on the car (not clean that area up) as it "already conforms to car and fits to the windshield" by a freind who does windshield replacement. I am doing a full resto and thought I would rather clean off and paint the window rim/ledge and get new gasket and seals and then put a new windshield in my Coronet. Am I wrong in this thinking or should I leave the almost 40 year old rubber in there and take the chance on it not leaking later? Are the new repop pieces not good enough to count on a seal and fit that I should rely on the old stuff to do a better job? Dazed and confused....

 

[Speedbird]

Sounds like he has his own ideas.
My experience is that the seal will shrink up now that the glass isn't in it.
So I don't get the "conforms to the car" part.
It is also probably harder than a new gasket.
I suspect he is planning to put it around the glass and use the rope trick to get it back in the car.
Gaskets are different.
I've reused old A body gaskets by stretching them between post with a come-a-long till time to put the glass back
in the car.
I've also used polyurethane between the car and rubber.
Then I can take a windshield out and back in without the rubber moving.
That sucker isn't coming out.

 

[dieseldazzle]

Dude replace it he is way wrong. I'm dealing with the exact same scenario and only a headache now that the car is painted. Do it all at once clean up the channel put new window trim clips in and a new seal. Call deutchman for a quality seal

 

[mccoymail]

Listen to dazzle and replace it. Use some sealant slong with a new seal and be good for another 46 years.

 

[Mocajava]

Gentlemen,I am convinced. Thanks for the insight and direction, I knew common sense would bear out in the end. Taking a chance on a 46 year old piece of rubber to seal didn't sit right with me and I could only imagine that the newer rubber compositions are as good or better than what was available in 69. I also REALLY wanted to clean up that edge , have it painted and start from scratch. I appreciate your words of wisdom. Mocajava

- - - Updated - - -

One more thought after looking at catalogs. When I looked at the seal it offered a 5/16 or a 3/8 inch piece. Why would I need one over the other as if it could go either way but conditions distated the choice?

 

[dieseldazzle]

Gentlemen,I am convinced. Thanks for the insight and direction, I knew common sense would bear out in the end. Taking a chance on a 46 year old piece of rubber to seal didn't sit right with me and I could only imagine that the newer rubber compositions are as good or better than what was available in 69. I also REALLY wanted to clean up that edge , have it painted and start from scratch. I appreciate your words of wisdom. Mocajava

- - - Updated - - -

One more thought after looking at catalogs. When I looked at the seal it offered a 5/16 or a 3/8 inch piece. Why would I need one over the other as if it could go either way but conditions distated the choice?

Some need thinner or thicker to fit the window trim and I think having or not having a vinyl top has something to do with it as well.

You need more research on this as I dont have first hand experience i was only able to find ONE window seal for my car even tho they showed a different part for vinyl top car (67 charger) on a few websites.

 

[Yatzee]

It is always best to replace it unless a new quality gasket is not available. The rubber goes on the windshield first and then in the body but if the glass was removed from the gasket first when removed and the gasket left on the body it probably will leak if new glass is installed in the seal. Don't be surprised at the mess that is under some of those old windshield gaskets. Sometimes it makes you wish that you had "left well enough alone". Having replaced both front and rear windshields on my car I can honestly say that price reflects quality. Steele Rubber Co's stuff was crap and a total waste of cash in my case. I ended up spending about $169 for a quality one and it fit like a glove and never leaked a drop. Unfortunately the guy went out of business but I do remember at the time of purchase he listed the OE part number which I verified and the seal was "bang on" according to the installer.

 

[Mocajava]

Thanks Yatzee! Finding a good quality gasket seems to be the key at this point. I will clean up under, remove any rust now and do my due dilligence to search out the best gasket when I get farther down the road. Getting the bodywork done and prepped for the painter is my goal right now. Leaving that gasket PLUS whatever surprises might be under it didn't set well with me. I am sure OE would be best, but will look at all the major vendors as well as consumer feedback from some of the FBBO members to make a decision. Having the professors at Mopar U. to guide me has been a total blessing as well as all the time and money I WON"T spend by taking their advice. Mocajava

 

[Mocajava]

I am surprised after cleaning off the windshield rubber and rear window. The amount of filler and even brazing that appears to have been done at assembly. Didn't know that happened or even that extent. Thanks for the quidance and glad I got the old stuff out, there was a little rust issue I had to address!

 

[wild bill]

Mocajava. I just finished replacing my 1969 Plymouth Road Runner front windshield (twice). I will explain why twice. I bought a new seal and had it installed. Later I spoke with my friend (very mopar knowledgeable) and he asked me if the installers placed sealer under the rubber seal. He said if they did not it would leak. I said no I didnt think so. so i did a water check. my front windshield leaked like a sieve!!!! I called the installer and we developed plan: (1). remove the windshield and the rubber seal; (2). I would remove the dash and use sealer between the dash and the cowl steel; (3). the installer would return and use sealer around the entire window, then place the rubber seal and window onto the sealant. the window does not leak; (4). optional. I placed some plastic on each of the lower corners to fill in the large gab, and placed sealer around the plastic and the surrounding steel frame. (your a pillars should cover these). I did this because a guy with a coronet a car show told me this is where he thought the water was coming in his windshield. So i fixed that potential problem as explained. Whatever you do, make SURE, the installer uses sealant along with the rubber seal. good luck, wild bill.

 

[Mocajava]

Well, I pulled the windshiled gasket out and a little rust but a LOT of filler, black goop that resembles tar and a tan colored body filler to fill out voids. Trying to get it all out by scraping and wire wheeling but may have to resort to lacquer thinner to cut that black goop. The stuff is still sticky after 46 years! Got it all over hands, tools and other parts of the fenders (courtesy of the wire wheel). Prepping for a coat of primer so I can turn it over to a REAL painter. THX

 

[dieseldazzle]

Well, I pulled the windshiled gasket out and a little rust but a LOT of filler, black goop that resembles tar and a tan colored body filler to fill out voids. Trying to get it all out by scraping and wire wheeling but may have to resort to lacquer thinner to cut that black goop. The stuff is still sticky after 46 years! Got it all over hands, tools and other parts of the fenders (courtesy of the wire wheel). Prepping for a coat of primer so I can turn it over to a REAL painter. THX

Post some pics of this mess to help others headed down this path broski

 

[Mocajava]

Will do Dieseldazzle, get some pics up soon. BTW....are the clips removable that are scatterd around the perimeter? Having to scrape and clean around them and would be easier if I could get them out and just put new in after the clean up. If they ARE replacable, can I get them readily and where? Mocajava