Wiring Questions / Discussion

[451Mopar]

Lately been looking at different videos and posts on car wiring, and seeing all types of systems and opinions, but not much discussion on the pros and cons.

I am curios on your opinions of different aspects of car wiring. Here is four to start with:
Question #1 - Mostly relates to aftermarket wiring kits. To run wires directly from fuse block / dash harness direct to loads (lights, ignition, sensors, and such), or to break the wiring up into harnesses (rear / tailights, front/head lights, engine, and such).
Question #2 - Related to above the Stock / reproduction and American Autowire use a bulkhead connector where others like Hywire and Ron Francis run through a gromet. Takes on bulkhead connectors. This can be stock or aftermarket.
Question #3 - How much do you care about the wire type being used. Many of the real cheap Amazon harness are PVC insulated wiring as was most of the original wiring. Most reproduction and higher end aftermarket wiring is XLPE (TXL or GXL). Is anyone doing real high end stuff with ETFE (Tefzel) wire?
Question #4 - Opinions on using EPDM (welding) wire for battery relocation.

 

[493 Mike]

Lately been looking at different videos and posts on car wiring, and seeing all types of systems and opinions, but not much discussion on the pros and cons.

I am curios on your opinions of different aspects of car wiring. Here is four to start with:
Question #1 - Mostly relates to aftermarket wiring kits. To run wires directly from fuse block / dash harness direct to loads (lights, ignition, sensors, and such), or to break the wiring up into harnesses (rear / tailights, front/head lights, engine, and such).
Question #2 - Related to above the Stock / reproduction and American Autowire use a bulkhead connector where others like Hywire and Ron Francis run through a gromet. Takes on bulkhead connectors. This can be stock or aftermarket.
Question #3 - How much do you care about the wire type being used. Many of the real cheap Amazon harness are PVC insulated wiring as was most of the original wiring. Most reproduction and higher end aftermarket wiring is XLPE (TXL or GXL). Is anyone doing real high end stuff with ETFE (Tefzel) wire?
Question #4 - Opinions on using EPDM (welding) wire for battery relocation.

My answers do not refer to OEM restorations (much more advanced systems exist today).
#1: I like to build my own.
#2: The OEM bulkhead connector is fine with OEM electrical loads. With vastly increased loads, I would use a grommet.
#3: The better wire today should not have soy-based insulation. More strands=more flexibility (more cost usually).
#4: See #3.
Mike

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Everyone will have opinions but here are my thoughts.

1. OEM applications are plug and play for the most part and easy to get right the first time.
2. Aftermarket harnesses are great with the demand of newer electronics but, are a little daunting when it comes to making it work with existing sockets, gauges and various other issues.

 

[Doorkicker]

Lately been looking at different videos and posts on car wiring, and seeing all types of systems and opinions, but not much discussion on the pros and cons.

I am curios on your opinions of different aspects of car wiring. Here is four to start with:
Question #1 - Mostly relates to aftermarket wiring kits. To run wires directly from fuse block / dash harness direct to loads (lights, ignition, sensors, and such), or to break the wiring up into harnesses (rear / tailights, front/head lights, engine, and such).
Question #2 - Related to above the Stock / reproduction and American Autowire use a bulkhead connector where others like Hywire and Ron Francis run through a gromet. Takes on bulkhead connectors. This can be stock or aftermarket.
Question #3 - How much do you care about the wire type being used. Many of the real cheap Amazon harness are PVC insulated wiring as was most of the original wiring. Most reproduction and higher end aftermarket wiring is XLPE (TXL or GXL). Is anyone doing real high end stuff with ETFE (Tefzel) wire?
Question #4 - Opinions on using EPDM (welding) wire for battery relocation.

Just my $0.02...

---Question #1 - Mostly relates to aftermarket wiring kits. To run wires directly from fuse block / dash harness direct to loads (lights, ignition, sensors, and such), or to break the wiring up into harnesses (rear / tailights, front/head lights, engine, and such).

I make my own harnesses and will create them based on two things... first, and the most important, is the type of circuit, such as lights verses ignition, etc. and then second - far less important, but there - is section of the car, such as front, engine bay, cabin, and rear.

---Question #2 - Related to above the Stock / reproduction and American Autowire use a bulkhead connector where others like Hywire and Ron Francis run through a gromet. Takes on bulkhead connectors. This can be stock or aftermarket.

I try to use and rebuild the stock bulkhead connector whenever possible. I essentially pull it out, pull all the wires and blades, and start from scratch with new blades. And in many cases, I'll rewire them completely and remove circuits that are no longer used or now go through a relay.

---Question #3 - How much do you care about the wire type being used. Many of the real cheap Amazon harness are PVC insulated wiring as was most of the original wiring. Most reproduction and higher end aftermarket wiring is XLPE (TXL or GXL). Is anyone doing real high end stuff with ETFE (Tefzel) wire?

I'm less concerned about the insulation, but very focused on the type and style of wire. I focus on 100% pure, high strand copper. I know tin cladded coper is preferred for most. I avoid anything with aluminum.

---Question #4 - Opinions on using EPDM (welding) wire for battery relocation.

Definitely use EPDM, high strand copper for all high loads... especially batt. long hauls.

 

[gkent]

Battery cable ... DO NOT use "CCE" (copper coated aluminum) which is cheap and widely available on Amazon. Use "OFC" (oxygen free copper). Welding cable is the right stuff. And take note that it IS available in RED for + cables.

 

[radical rob]

I have used haywire on 3 cars.
Removed the bulkhead connector and welded in a patch panel. Don’t miss it as a potential problem at all.
Haywire kits come presectioned in groups like engine, dash, rear, headlights etc. fairly easy to keep straight.
Welding wire works fine. Agree with above, get the good copper wire.
For haywire Denny is your man. I have found him to be responsive, extremely knowledgeable, and very helpful when I had a question. They are not a big operation so when you call you will not get an ai voice. You’ll either get Denny or his wife. I have one more car to wire and I will be using them for that one as well.

 

[Xp29h]

When I did the complete rewire of my car, it was complete!

1. Brand new Ron Francis kit for everything! Brand new fuse box completely updated! New harnesses for everything! Front and rear everywhere!
2. My bulkhead connector was very sloppy and wires were loose and just removed it and build a grommet panel that covered the existing bulkhead hole and was all insulated so wires couldn’t chafe.
3. Part of the reason I chose the Ron Francis kit was the wire used at the time! They didn’t go cheap on that and I paid for it! But it’s been flawless so far! Don’t go cheap on wire!
4. I’ll leave to the folks that know more about that than me! Sorry can’t help ya!

Good luck!

This was the pile once I removed it all from the car!

 

[gkent]

Bulkhead connectors were great for assembly lines - subsystems like dashes, engines, etc. could be prewired and just plugged in as the vehicle progressed down the line. On custom cars they can be handy in that you don't have a huge, complete harness to contend with and, quite importantly, mistakes or modifications are easy. They're a personal choice.