Wiring questions for my 67

[SDCoronet]

Guys I am working on my dash. While I have access, I want do some preparatory upgrades.

I want to prepare for an eventual aftermarket mp3/Bluetooth/amp that will probably be mounted in the trunk. Its not clear to me what do exactly. I suspect I need an add-on fuse block/power center under the dash to connect to. Is there an easy way to plug in to my current harness? What do you recommend?

FYI I just want to prepare my car for modest future needs - I do not intend to have large amp sucking upgrades like electric fans or crazy booming radios. (except maybe a Holley sniper someday).

Thanks in advance

 

[Jerry Hall]

I think any auxiliary fuse panel needs a separate fused lead back to the battery for power.

 

[70chall440]

You can connect your head unit (stereo) to the factory radio power line, however your amp will need to be connected to a heavier/cleaner power source such as the battery itself or a small power distribution block that is connected to the battery. The head unit/stereo will turn the amp on/off. This is the same issue if you are going to use a sub-woofer system. Keep in mind that if you want good sound (not necessarily loud sound) you have to address the low, mid and high sound range. When most think of a sub-woofer (aka sub) they think of thumping base, but you can turn down the base so that it compliments the sound verses over power it; this will give you a much richer sound.

The real challenge is speaker placement, to get really decent sound you have to put in enough speakers throughout the car to distribute the sound. In classic cars, generally you can put a "standard" speaker (or better yet a dual speaker) in the front where the stock speaker goes, then put a mid with a tweeter in the door, a sub under the seat and some 6x9's in the rear of the car.

You can use the head unit to power the front speaker, the sub to power the mids and tweeters and the amp to power the rear speakers.

The amp and the sub usually require 8 gauge wire to power them (and ground them) and should be fused. You can do this by installing a power distribution block coming off the battery or even off the cigarette lighter. This will protect your system and car.

 

[6-david-5]

I agree with 70chall440 above, but I would like to add the following:

To answer the one question you had, the "easy" way to plug in to your existing harness will be you cutting it & adding in whatever it is you will need or want. If you can do clean wiring work, I don't feel this is an issue! If the installation companies (Scosche, etc.) make harness adapters, I haven't seen them for these cars!

Also, depending on how much amplification you are opting for, you may be adding 4 gauge cable/ground for your amp. You'll just be running wire (including a remote turn-on for your amp).

Just to share a bit of experience: on my old Dodge Ram with a couple of amps, I ran underdrive pulleys on it so it didn't charge at idle. The headlights would flicker from bass hits unless I raised the throttle up to at least 1000 rpm or so (traffic situations, etc.)! Depending on your amp size, you may want to think about what state your charging system is in currently and how you're going to use your gear!

David

 

[SDCoronet]

Thanks for the replies guys. Sounds like I can get continuous power from the pink lighter wire, and switched power from radio wire (don't remember the color, maybe orange).

Depending on your amp size, you may want to think about what state your charging system is in currently and how you're going to use your gear!

David

My stock charging system sucks, so I also plan on doing the following:

1. Nacho's parallel wiring upgrade to back up the firewall connections
2. Upgrade to powermaster stock-looking one-wire alternator (to charge at idle)
3. Crackbacks headlight relay kit

Been reading @Nacho-RT74 posts and he is pretty convincing that most high draw loads should come from the alternator side and not the battery side. Does this mean to connect a 8 awg wire directly from the alternator itself as a main power supply for the amp?

 

[6-david-5]

SD

Orange is for illumination! It is part of the dimming circuit driven by the rotary function of your headlight switch! You can verify it by tapping in with a test light and dimming it with the headlight switch!

If your charging system sucks, that needs to be the 1'st thing you work on! When I get these cars running, it is one of the first things I upgrade when I have any expectations of driving them to any extent!

On my '67 Belvedere, I installed a '91 Toyota 4Runner alternator along with 6-gauge wiring and protection to the battery. 70 amps & it charges at idle. The 4 cyl. model has a V-belt pulley (others have a serpentine pulley). The Alt gauge GETS BYPASSED along with ANY alternator upgrade I do, and is an automatic part of the project! And these are parts-store plentiful with a lifetime warranty if you buy that one.

I see the merits of the headlight relay upgrade, but to be honest, I have never really felt the urgency after upgrading my charging systems!

Regarding "alt-side or battery-side", this sounds like it needs to be clarified. After the car starts (which is purely battery-side), everything should be running off output from the alternator. I don't think the comment is meant to specify where you will make connections--just what state of being should exist while the car runs.

Amps need to be connected to the battery because they have very high transient loads. The battery has the capacity to handle that. So, NO--please don't connect your amp to the alternator!