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WoW! Severe inner tire wear - right front only ?

TopBanana72

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Location
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1972 Charger

These tires have only 3000, miles on them.

What could it be?

Driver's side looks much better, but grooves do look a little thinner on inside.

I'm planning on doing a complete front end rebuild this winter and alignment afterwards, any upgrade suggestions?

Anything I can do myself on this front right to get through the season?

thanks

IMG_0001.jpg
 
Tire could be remove an have the good part on inside 'til season ends. Rebuild front end new tire and alignment when new tires go on.
I'd look tire over carefully inside maybe to far gone, after a second look.
 
My UCA cam bolt nut popped off and both of my relatively new front tires were to the belts in about 2 days. Steering was loose/sloppy already so it was hard to notice.
Man, I can't wait to get the QA1 tubular K-member and front suspension system that I bought installed!
 
Worn parts lol.

Jack the front end up and see what kind of movement the wheel has when you push and pull on it. Could be bearings out of adjustment, worn uca bushings, ball joint, etc.
 
yep

too much toe or too much camber

jack up by the frame rail until the tire is about 2-3 inches off the ground.

put pry bar (pretty good size) under the tire, perpendicular to center line of car.

pry up and see what moves Other than the UCA/LCA pivots, and watch them for abnormal movement as well) .

there should be less than about 1/32" movement anywhere.

easier to do with 2 people
 
If it was toe then both wheels would wear.
Looks like the camber adjustment is off, just from the picture.
Loosen the torsion bar and see if you can adjust the cam bolts and get the top of that wheel out as far as possible.
Check the ball joints while you are at it.
 
Most likely, your front suspension needs rebuilt.
I’d do the entire system like you’ve stated already.
No need for any fancy whiz bang parts. Just use a good kit and have it aligned by a shop that knows about old mopars.
 
Even though I had 3 of the best, most experienced "old school" suspension/alignment mechanics work on my car since I got it about 5 years ago, none of them were able to find enough adjustment in the factory UCA "cam" design to get the alignment perfect.
If the day comes where I get a full repaint done, I will have the body and frame checked for straightness on a machine or jig and any adjustments needed made.
I wanted to upgrade the front suspension anyway, and the cam bolt popping off was the nudge that made it happen (plus a sale price and free shipping).
The only part of the new system that is not QA1 is the UCA because the SPC UCAs look like the best.
Screenshot_20190913-083332_Chrome.jpg

I'm over-answering the question the OP had, but his tire wear issue is similar to what happened to me.
 
as said, the front end needs some love with some fresh parts
I'm going to guess its the lower control arm pivot bushings are shot.
because that is usually the front end part that gets ignored the most..
when you have that kind of tire wear on the inside
that is usually the culprit..
 
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the front end needs some love with some fresh parts
Another note...I did get new ball joints and a used LCA for the passenger side to replace the LCA that was damaged.
I just decided to "do something better" by buying the QA1 system rather than continuing to replace the original design piecemeal.
 
Another note...I did get new ball joints and a used LCA for the passenger side to replace the LCA that was damaged.
I just decided to "do something better" by buying the QA1 system rather than continuing to replace the original design piecemeal.

did you change the LCA pivot bushings out?
the original design is the best
all of the after market stuff has its own drawbacks...
just look at your part picture
you are depending on a weld...
I will stop now.. lol
 
did you change the LCA pivot bushings out?
the original design is the best
all of the after market stuff has its own drawbacks...
just look at your part picture
you are depending on a weld...
I will stop now.. lol
No.
I'm also not using my car as a daily driver.
If the weld I'm depending on doesn't break at the fast end of the 1320 or some other worst possible time, I think I'll be ok.
Thanks for the input though, I am here for information, ideas, and camaraderie.
:D
 
the origin and grade of those bolts on those arms would have me worried also
ok I'm done for now ..lol

I'm guessing that if you change out your LCA pivots
you won't need those upper arms to get a good alignment.
that is what you are making up for
you really should plan to change them out anyway
because you will always have slop in there.
just my 2 cents from going thru the same thing..
 
Thanks again. I will have to look closely at the bolts included with the UCA. I'd expect them to do the job, and be appropriate for the stress that they are designed for, but I am the "type" to inquire about things that should be taken for granted, but it seems like whenever I take something for granted, I wish I would have been more diligent. The feedback I've had on these particular UCAs from people I trust who have actually used them has been positive.
Thanks again.
 
over the years
I have seen much more failure from the aftermarket stuff then original
so my radar is up more then normal when I see it.
I would take nothing for granted
don't want to see a nice ride like yours suffer that fate.
 
I did a forum search, again for SPC and reviewed the posts. There are some who expressed concern about the design of this UCA, but that was opinion based on appearance, not from actual use.
I'm going to post a new thread specifically about the SPC UCAs and see what kind of replies I get.
Thanks Flypaper.
 
yep

too much toe or too much camber

jack up by the frame rail until the tire is about 2-3 inches off the ground.

put pry bar (pretty good size) under the tire, perpendicular to center line of car.

pry up and see what moves Other than the UCA/LCA pivots, and watch them for abnormal movement as well) .

there should be less than about 1/32" movement anywhere.

easier to do with 2 people
 
Welol I checked. Everything seems solid. But, something is whacked for sure. I will put my spare on and start getting the components for the rebuild.

Is there a step by step guide for doing the front end rebuild? I've never done it before.
 
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