WTF on my friggen brakes

[rp23g7]

So, i checked my brakes last week, and the front shoes were down to the rivits, almost scrapping.

So i replaced them today, 10" by 2.5", drums are original, just a slight scoring on both. Wheel Cylinders look good, like they have been replaced within the last few yrs. Master Cyl looks pretty new also.

So i replace the shoes and grease the bearings and put everything back together, and adjust them, and bleed them for good measure, and take it for a drive......and my friggen car makes a immediate left turn when braking. GRRRR. WTH, it stopped ok 30 min before i replaced them.

I took it apart again thinking the wheel cyl was sticking, and had my wife gently press on the brake, the wheel cyl in working good, the springs are not retracting very well but it seems they apply the brakes good. I bop each of the shoes for good measure and put it back together and try again, same thing. Think the shoes need some time to wear into the drums?

 

[midnightrider1818]

well im having the same problem right now only on my front disc brakes. mine just arent releasing. went 5 mile today and stopped and smoke was just rolling off my front discs. cant push the fluid back in the master cylinder with the line on from the caliper. took the line off the master cylinder and it pushed right in. put it back on same thing. cant push the piston back in. take it off and there it goes pushes nice and easy.

 

[rp23g7]

well im having the same problem right now only on my front disc brakes. mine just arent releasing. went 5 mile today and stopped and smoke was just rolling off my front discs. cant push the fluid back in the master cylinder with the line on from the caliper. took the line off the master cylinder and it pushed right in. put it back on same thing. cant push the piston back in. take it off and there it goes pushes nice and easy.

Wow, that is a strange problem. Is the porportioning valve stuck? You took the line off the master cylinder itself and you could push the piston back in?

Strange.

 

[midnightrider1818]

yep, weird i know it. nope i even changed proportioning valves actually. i had another one laying around and swapped it on. same problem. work up to the master and take the line off it and wala. piston pushes right back in the bore. i think the compensating port on my master is blocked with debris. all i know. it can be. even took the plungers out and took some fine sandpaper to the pistons.

 

[rp23g7]

yep, weird i know it. nope i even changed proportioning valves actually. i had another one laying around and swapped it on. same problem. work up to the master and take the line off it and wala. piston pushes right back in the bore. i think the compensating port on my master is blocked with debris. all i know. it can be. even took the plungers out and took some fine sandpaper to the pistons.

Yeah, could be a bad master cylinder

 

[Meep-Meep]

Is your brake adjustment OK? I always run the adjuster up manually until it's tight and the drum can't turn, then back off a little until there is slight contact when the drum is turned by hand.

 

[Meep-Meep]

well im having the same problem right now only on my front disc brakes. mine just arent releasing. went 5 mile today and stopped and smoke was just rolling off my front discs. cant push the fluid back in the master cylinder with the line on from the caliper. took the line off the master cylinder and it pushed right in. put it back on same thing. cant push the piston back in. take it off and there it goes pushes nice and easy.

You are correct when you say the compensating port has crud in it. That crud is the primary piston! Take the master cylinder off the booster and verify you have a little clearance (like .030") between the push rod and the piston. The rod has adjustment capabilities for this very reason. That gap measurement should be found in any quality manual.

 

[RGAZ]

Is your brake adjustment OK? I always run the adjuster up manually until it's tight and the drum can't turn, then back off a little until there is slight contact when the drum is turned by hand.

I second this suggestion.

Randy

 

[rp23g7]

I second this suggestion.

Randy

It seems so, i will adjust them again after work, seemed a bit better on the way to work.

 

[rp23g7]

HMMMM, after thinking about it, i may have reversed the springs on that one side. I think i may have put the long spring on the front, as i was facing the other way when i put it on, gotta check that.

 

[daredevil]

If it is trying to turn left that side is working. The other side is not working. I accidentally crimped the passenger side on my truck with a Jack and when I applied the brakes it wanted to turn left. This could also be caused by a stuck wheel cylinder crimped line or a crimped hose. The hoses can also collapse but then they usually cause the brake to drag on that side. Good luck.

 

[rp23g7]

If it is trying to turn left that side is working. The other side is not working. I accidentally crimped the passenger side on my truck with a Jack and when I applied the brakes it wanted to turn left. This could also be caused by a stuck wheel cylinder crimped line or a crimped hose. The hoses can also collapse but then they usually cause the brake to drag on that side. Good luck.

Strange thing is, it was fine 30 min before, I took the "Non working side apart to check it. Had the wife step on the pedal lightly, it seemed to expand the shoes and retract them ok.

I think i may have reversed the springs on the pulling side, possible causing the left side to apply first from less spring pressure.

 

[68ChargerAG]

Did either of the drums have grooving or dishing? If you didn't get the drums turned... it sounds to me like the pads might be just breaking into the two drum grooves at a different rate. One side might be more "groovie" and causing that pad to grab harder than the other. If it is getting better the more you drive it might eventually even out.

Also, there is a front and back pad for each side right? Did you make sure to get them installed correctly on both sides? Just a thought, maybe verify that when you check the spring.

 

[khryslerkid]

Make sure your self adjusters are on right too. on backwards or wrong one on the wrong side will "un-adjust itself. I like to practice take off both drums, remove and replace one set at a time so you have a reference to how your parts go back.

 

[74sundance]

Wouldn't hurt to check your Tie rods,the car will pull to one side with a worn tie rod.

 

[rp23g7]

Make sure your self adjusters are on right too. on backwards or wrong one on the wrong side will "un-adjust itself. I like to practice take off both drums, remove and replace one set at a time so you have a reference to how your parts go back.

My fronts are non self adjusting.

 

[rp23g7]

Wouldn't hurt to check your Tie rods,the car will pull to one side with a worn tie rod.

Doing the whole front end next winter woo hoo.

And the answer everyone has been waiting for...........................grease on the shoe, oopps. Took it all apart, sanded the shoes, soaked the drums down in gas, put it all back together and adjusted them again and took it for a drive. All Better

 

[daredevil]

congrats on getting it fixed. now enjoy

 

[74sundance]

Doing the whole front end next winter woo hoo.

And the answer everyone has been waiting for...........................grease on the shoe, oopps. Took it all apart, sanded the shoes, soaked the drums down in gas, put it all back together and adjusted them again and took it for a drive. All Better

Try anti seize...Grease melts and drips on your breaks when hot.:blush:

 

[rp23g7]

Try anti seize...Grease melts and drips on your breaks when hot.:blush:

Oh yeah, on the contact points, i must have had some on my hand from the spindle