• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Zbar

axxmann

Member
Local time
11:17 AM
Joined
Sep 24, 2020
Messages
24
Reaction score
13
Location
Holly Michigan
Hello everyone hope you are all well and enjoying your cars.
My quick question.
Can I remove the zbar on my 69 4 speed Roadrunner without removing trans and bellhousing?
Thanks
Axxmann
 
Of course, pull the bearing retainer clip and see if you can slide it side to side to remove, if not remove the frame rail pivot by simply loosening the nut.
 
Of course, pull the bearing retainer clip and see if you can slide it side to side to remove, if not remove the frame rail pivot by simply loosening the nut.
How is it getting it back in with the plastic bushings in place?
 
A 3 minute job. You hold the plastic halves on the bellhousing pivot and slide the tube over them, as you drop the frame rail pivot back into place.
 
How is it getting it back in with the plastic bushings in place?
  • First of all, clean all parts.
  • then install rubber seals onto both ball studs - use a tiny bit of grease if necessary
  • then put a small amount of grease into each open half of the bushes, and gently push together on ball stud,
  • push engine side ball stud inside the Z-bar all the way up to the beginning o the coarse thread,
  • then insert chassis side ball stud with bushes in place - carefully pushing in all the way to the start of the threads,
  • carefully wriggle the Z-bar into position,
  • once in approximately the correct location, pull engine side ball stud out of Z-bar to allow thread to be screwed into bellhousing - then tighten,
  • now do the same at the chassis end - carefully so as not to pull the ball studs out completely.
  • Tighten chassis end.
  • Once ball studs are in position and tight, apply spring clip holders, and rotate until they lock into the grooves on the plastic bearing shells.
Depending on length of spring clip 'legs', they may be sitting slightly proud on the Z-bar.
Now you can adjust the clutch linkage.

:thankyou:

:welcome:
 
Y'all both left out the final step....
"When you discover the pivot mount on the frame is not directly opposite the one on the bellhousing,
commence to cursing in three languages as you feverishly jack the engine up and down to try and pry
the damn z-bar on the car."
:D
 
Hello everyone hope you are all well and enjoying your cars.
My quick question.
Can I remove the zbar on my 69 4 speed Roadrunner without removing trans and bellhousing?
Thanks
Axxmann
Does the spring on the z bar that has the 2 little nubs that go thru the z bar. do the nubs actually ride on the plastic bearing?
Also Thank You everyone..
 
It's a retainer.. the ends go through the tube and into the slot in the bearing, so that the Zbar isn't moving back and forth at the frame end.
 
That end floats... bearing is on the ball and able to float in and out of the tube during drive train movement. Frame end is pegged so it doesn't mess up things from Zbar, to clutch pedal.
 
What holds it in position? on the bellhousing side.
Like @dadsbee said above, that end is free to move - if the both ends were captive with the spring retainer, when the engine moves, the ball sockets would not be able to move accordingly. One end must float, and it does - it will not fallout as there is sufficient length inside the tube to remain in position.
 
Ok everyone I have the zbar out and am seeing some problems first on the frame side of the z bar I dont believe the bushings were locked in with the spring. This I believe was given me 1/2 to 3/4 inch movement in the zbar left to right. This I might have been causing most of my problems. Another thing I am noticing is that the 2 ball studs are different lengths so which goes where? Now with that question ask will it matter on the bellhousing side. With the headers and clutch fork in place I cant seem to get enough room to take it out. With the best view I can get I think it is a shorter ball stud, but only by maybe a 1/4 at most. Thanks again. Side note I own a print and copy shop so I was able to print out the pictures. They are a big help...!!!
 
Penetrating lubricant and time are your friends. :)
Not that its that hard I just cant get a wrench on it with the starter and headers in the way. It has only been on for about a month.
Im going to try from the top over the week end. Along with many different wrenches.
Thanks
www.axxmann.com
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top