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To Dynamat or Not

Ron H

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I had researched all sorts of soundproofing options and dynamat looks like way to go. Sure is popular. Before I make the buy does anyone have thoughts pro or con having installed It? My car is a drop top so obvious limitations but plan to do the floors and trunk. Thanks
 
If you do go ahead, be sure not to cover every square inch of surface. Completely unnecessary and adds considerable weight. Be strategic. Go to a high end mobile audio installer and ask them about it.
 
I've done it on 3 cars now, no complaints. Installed on the roof and inside of doors, keeps them from sounding hollow. I covered every square inch,from the firewall all the way up to the package tray.
One recomendation is to put it down last, I put it in first on the Mustang and after several months of crawling around on it compressed it which may affect some of the heat deflection...it sure makes it easier on the knees though!
 
I don't know if there are any drawbacks for a NON race car. I'd look at their competitors though. Many companies sell similar stuff MUCH cheaper! Some guys have reported the use of commercial roofing material as a substitute. I'd expect that to smell like asphalt though...screw that. I hate it when the hot tar roofing guys come to the job, stinking up the place. Its as bad as when the shithouse sucker dude show up to clean the toilets while we are eating lunch!
 
FatMat
If it's a 66-67 use extra under the backseats where the muffler is. That section moves up and down like a woofer at a Funkadelics concert.
 
My vote is for homemade lizard skin! Or even name brand. At least if you decide to remove it it's not a total horror show like the butyl is. It's just like removing regular paint.
 
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FatMat
If it's a 66-67 use extra under the backseats where the muffler is. That section moves up and down like a woofer at a Funkadelics concert.
Did somebody say Funkadelic Concert?
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I used Dynamat in my GTX. Bought rolls of it on amazon for better pricing than you could get from the others. I also bought the roller tool to help lay it down tight. Did the whole inside of the car - accept the roof. I have original headliner that is in perfect condition so obviously didn't want to screw with that. Happy with the results.
 
I used the ThermoTech stuff on a project before, worked like Dynomat at a lesser cost.

Use a little heat and pressure to install on a clean surface, it'll never come off.

The downside... it'll never come off.
 
About 1 1/2 rolls, I think I bought 2 of the 25sqft of the 50mil. That was in a 68 mustang coupe so a b bod would probably use 2 full.
One recommendation is if you do have any left over double it up on your trans hump and footwell/ firewall where headers pass. Or up grade and get the 80 or 110mil. It works pretty well as a heat shield though its primary function is sound dampening.
 
About 1 1/2 rolls, I think I bought 2 of the 25sqft of the 50mil. That was in a 68 mustang coupe so a b bod would probably use 2 full.
One recommendation is if you do have any left over double it up on your trans hump and footwell/ firewall where headers pass. Or up grade and get the 80 or 110mil. It works pretty well as a heat shield though its primary function is sound dampening.

Is that all? It would seem like the floor alone would take 50sq ft? Thanks for replying
 
Mustangs are pretty small...but it was some years ago... 50sq =5'x10'. Ebay has a 75sq 50 mil pkg for $124 or 100sq for $144... 80 mil 75sq for 150..
 
If you are sensitive to smells (some in my immediate family are), some of the cheaper dynamat alternatives are basically asphalt/tar and I've read reports of them stinking/off-gassing for a very long time.

The butyl-based products like dynamat should not have any odor.
 
Never heard of fat mat..whats the difference with this and dyna?
 
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