Trans brake install

[doublekrossd]

Hey all. Right now I have a CRT pro race trans with a manual shift reverse valve body in it. The car is technically a street car but its kinda becoming a track "just make me feel good" type car. I'm not really getting into a racing all the time type thing yet. I like the idea of a trans brake because I do get into a few tracks every so often and tend to get mouthy with the bowtie kids on the street. How hard are they to install? Do I have to do other stuff to the trans or just bolt it in and wire it? Does anyone use one on the street or am I just looking for trouble?

 

[66Satellite47]

Call John Cope & ask him what is needed for his trans brake install & what's already in yours.

 

[LemonWedge]

What are hoping to get out of a transbrake? (They generally won’t make a car much faster, if any at all).

 

[doublekrossd]

Last tinge I talked to John on the phone he insulted my intelligence so I'd rather not deal with him. He makes a great trans but I will no longer be doing business with him. That is why I'm posting here.
What do I hope to gain? I don't know exactly...i guess just a quicker launch or 60' time. A small wheel stand on the street would make me grin for days. Stupid I know, but simple things make my life happy

 

[66Satellite47]

I'd expect each trans brake valve body install could be a little different ( electrical connection etc). The internal parts combination needs to be matched & designed for brake use. Driveshaft & rear axle also need consideration. My trans brake experience is limited and from long ago. In my tube chassis Arrow the brake went .15 - .2 quicker in 60ft & .2 to .3 quicker ET. I didn't like driving it though, so back to foot brake for me. Be prepared for parts breakage if you don't have the stoutest drivetrain.

 

[LemonWedge]

A transmission really should be built around a brake. Adding one to an existing setup is asking for trouble if you ask me. I would plan an entire trans build out and then see if you can reuse existing parts. The converter needs to be addressed as well to make sure it’s going to be compatible. Other things to be aware of is you’ll have to hold the button to get reverse (maybe no big deal, but for a street car it can be a p-i-a issue). My experience is that pulling the front end is a function of chassis setup (instant center and proper geometry) and engine torque more than a transmission setup deal.

 

[doublekrossd]

Thank you for the replies! I have a custom built dana being built for it and i figured it would be tough on the rest of the car as well but I'd just keep building it stronger. I was unaware of having to hold the button for reverse. That might suck...

As far as wheel stands, if it can hook, I should be able to do a little one anyways. If it's set up right.
I don't know why wheelies are so cool but its fun to show off mopar muscle in a VERY GM town!

 

[LemonWedge]

One of my best friends has a 66 Chevelle that would run 10.70’s. But it left flat with no front end rise. He desperately wanted to have a car that yanked the front end. So he pulled his 600 horse 468, installed an 800 hp 565, and built a TH400 around a brake, but didn’t do anything chassis or suspension wise, still making use of fully stock suspension geometry...... It left hard and ran 9.80’s; but only pulled the left front up a couple inches for a few ft. He was bummed with that aspect. Then you will see mid 11 second cars that rip the front end and carry it a while. It’s all in the chassis setup.

 

[Mike Gaines]

PM sent to you doublecrossed...I can answer every question about the transbrake.
I just put in a complete A&A transmission with their transbrake.



One thing right now. I think it would be very hard to pull the front wheels on the street, simply because of NO TRACTION. The drag strip is fully prepped and "sticky".
Launching off my transbrake @4000RPM on the chip my front wheels come up about 2 feet in the air for a distance of about 20 feet off the starting line...but again, that is at the track.
I also have the complete CalTrak system including their bars, mono-leaf springs and front and rear shocks and my front end is set up for 5" of free travel.
Although My car is 100% street legal I haven't driven it on the street since the new transmission install...but I just don't think I could get enuf bite to pull the wheels in those conditions.
You MUST have a DANA with your heavy car and you must have 1350 U-Joints front and rear....plus other stuff including a front motor plate OR the Moroso steel motor mounts, otherwise you will blow the rubber mounts plus the special Hoosier Stiff Sidewall Drag Slicks otherwise your heavy car will literally "crush" your tires on launch unless you have 32 inch tall tires that are at least 12" wide, regular 28" tall tires wont handle the brake launch..I put on 29" Stiff Sidewall Hoosiers with screwed rims and 17lbs of air to handle the launch. You also need a converter that will handle the transbrake.
My ET's and 60 foot's improved using the brake.
I can now also cut a decent light now with the brake.
In my opinion the trans brake is the best thing ever.

 

[doublekrossd]

Mike thanks! I'll try to get ahold of some time tomorrow afternoon and call you. I appreciate your willingness to help me out!

 

[1967coronet440]

Mike, I may need to talk to you in the near future as well, just picked up an A&A super comp with a brake myself.

 

[1967coronet440]

Last tinge I talked to John on the phone he insulted my intelligence so I'd rather not deal with him. He makes a great trans but I will no longer be doing business with him. That is why I'm posting here.
What do I hope to gain? I don't know exactly...i guess just a quicker launch or 60' time. A small wheel stand on the street would make me grin for days. Stupid I know, but simple things make my life happy

I doubt John intentionally insulted you, typically people like that would only get upset is when someone calls and try’s to tell him how to build a trans etc...

 

[doublekrossd]

John was a complete jerk to me once on the phone. When I talked to him about having him build it, and then when I drove 5 hours to pick it up, he was an absolute stand up guy. When I asked why it could have been leaking from an area that doesn't have fluid to it he screamed "how the f should I know and why would you ask me such a stupid f-ing question?" After that he proceeded to have a real short attitude with me and talked to me like I was a child.

I actually talked to him about a week later, and apologized (which is a rarity, I'm stubborn as hell) for asking a question about something I know nothing about and I wasn't trying to waste his time. He never apologized, and acted like my leak wasn't his problem, later found that a bolt hole was drilled and tapped too deep (done by crt themselves).
So that is why I will no longer deal with him.

 

[66Satellite47]

IIRC not all transbrakes require holding the "button" for reverse. Check it out before buying. I agree with Lemon Wedge, you need the proper combo of internal parts and a "brake" converter to have any durability.

 

[dvw]

If the car has the right converter very little if any ET to be gained with a brake. You can run it on the street w/o issue, we do. However traction will be useless. The trans does require some internal mods. I'd suggest an aftermarket front drum and steel front planet as minimum mods. Along with a trans brake valve body those 3 items are over $1200.
Doug

 

[doublekrossd]

the trans is built with high end components, billet high drum, some special bolt in sprag, upgraded input/output shafts and anything else Cope recommended for my horsepower goals and car weight. I believe he did a good job setting me up for a nearly bullet proof transmission. I'm a little nervous about traction the more I think about it.
The convertor is PTC spec'd by Kenny. From what I gather the man knows his mopars with power. I'll try to call him tomorrow and see what his thoughts are.

 

[plumwagon]

Just had a Grinder trans brake installed in my Belvedere. I bought it a few years ago but never had it installed. After looking at the directions I knew it was a job for a trans shop (Drum machining etc). Cost me $600 to have it installed. Have not been to the track yet but do Drive it weekly on the streets. The only draw back so far is holding the button while trying to reverse with one hand and no power steering. The Grinder trans brake was $800, should be fun at the track, have the 2 step set at 4K.

 

[Mike Gaines]

Just had a Grinder trans brake installed in my Belvedere. I bought it a few years ago but never had it installed. After looking at the directions I knew it was a job for a trans shop (Drum machining etc). Cost me $600 to have it installed. Have not been to the track yet but do Drive it weekly on the streets. The only draw back so far is holding the button while trying to reverse with one hand and no power steering. The Grinder trans brake was $800, should be fun at the track, have the 2 step set at 4K.

Plum,
A friend of mine installed two (2) transbrake switches.
1 switch was the normal "momentary" transbrake switch like we all use.
The 2nd switch (wired to actuate the solenoid also) was a simple toggle switch. When he is driving it on the street and he wants to backup, he merely flips the toggle switch (which is the same action as holding the button down). When he is finished backing up he flips the toggle switch off.
And, by the way, it is a GRINER brake not a GRINDER...LOL
Remember, you need to talk to the guy who built your converter and make sure it will handle a transbrake, also you need to have a motor plate or Moroso Steel Motor Mounts plus you got to make sure you have 1350 u-Joints on both ends of your driveshaft....word to the wise.

 

[plumwagon]

Mike,
Damn auto correct! And your suggestion about the switch just made my day. My trans was built for the trans brake, however Griner was on backorder at the time it was built so should be good on that end. Ujoints are good but no motor plate just solid mounts with torque strap. Hopefully it will all stay together. Thanks Mike!

 

[Mike Gaines]

Mike,
Damn auto correct! And your suggestion about the switch just made my day. My trans was built for the trans brake, however Griner was on backorder at the time it was built so should be good on that end. Ujoints are good but no motor plate just solid mounts with torque strap. Hopefully it will all stay together. Thanks Mike!

I have the Morose mounts with torque strap also.