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As with any bolt, it needs to work with a thread, no matter where the threads are. In a nut or in a tapped piece of metal. The engineers designed ease of assembly into the assembly.
Mike
To be fair on my end-I don't know for sure if they're not all steel. I never owned a 62. Just guessing from the covers on my 63 and 2-65s. I never have/will never "restore" a car. I made my own covers from aluminum for my 65 Belvedere. I even used rivet nuts to retain them, never did enjoy...
I used Ohio Crankshaft's kit (probably before 440 Source was around) with no regrets. Use the smallest overbore you can, it makes for stronger cylinder walls/better ring seal. RPM heads. Complete Hughes valvetrain (solid) and my 6 Pack induction. 10.6:1 CR, Dougs headers with 3" exhaust-X-pipe...
I contacted MSD tech support and was told I needed a 8132 Signal Generator. I looked it up and it is described for use with a magneto style ignition system, which is not what I have. The 8920 appears to be correct for my needs but, I want to be sure of proper wiring before I drop another 'C'...
I have no comparative analysis to offer, Just wanted to say that 2 1/2" pipe is too large for a mild 318. 2" would be a better match (dual). Too large a pipe slows the exhaust velocity and results in a power loss.
Mike
I just read the post on adjusting front wheel bearings and it made me think about my wrenches. I have accumulated these in the last 55 years.
From the left:
Dial readout 1/2" drive Kwik-Way (currently broken) (Army-Air Forces) Army Surplus
Dial readout 1/4" drive Snap On Army Surplus
Beam type...