tapered axle puller

Jappe · May 9, 2016

Hi gents,

I am looking for Tool c-499 to get the axles out of mine 1964 POLARA. It is an old 8.75 rear end.

I removed the drum but what is next? The manual told me to use Tool c-499 but I can't find it. I don't want to use a Slice Hammer. It scares me and I am wonder if that will damage the bearings or something else as well.

Any ideas? I found some "non-legal" options but I've got doubts. Again I guess using a Slice Hammer will damage the bearings or something else.
Is anybody experienced on that Job?

Kind regards,

Jan

grubby65 · May 9, 2016

I have the C-499 tool, but before I got it I have used a piece of heavy chain to pull the axles. Basically you need chain with links large enough to go over the threaded part of the axle, then put the washer and nut on to secure the chain. Then basically you leave a foot or so loose and then using a whipping motion on the chain. I'm having a hard time thinking how to describe the action. Basically stand facing the axle with one hand on the fender and with the other whip the chain straight back.

threewood · May 9, 2016

I did mine by putting the drum back on with axle nut loose and use the drum as the slide hammer. Just don't bang it hard back in or the the taper will stick.

Jappe · May 9, 2016

Is it mandatory to install new bearings and use new shims for the end play? On a 66 I used green bearings but can't use them for early rear ends. My diff replacement is the a rebuilt 741 like the one Installer but different ratio. It was out of a 73 Challenger before we swapped it with a 489. As far as I know it should fit or are there differences I am not aware of?

Sixpaksteve · May 10, 2016

This is the tool you're looking for. I found one on Craigslist 2 years ago for about $60.00 but they also become available on EBAY from time to time. The prices I've seen on EBAY are in the $100 range, depending on the condition of the tool.

Jappe · May 10, 2016

I think it is to pull the drum and not the axle. The drum is already uninstalled. So I need the one to get the axle off.

flyingfarley · May 10, 2016

I have always done it the way Threewood described.....unbolt the bolts....take out the key in the axle...install back on the axle with the nut turned on a small way, and use the drum as a slide hammer...works every time. You wont wreck anything...these are tuff. parts...if the bearing was good...just grease it and reinstall...reuse the shims that were there if everything was OK

Jappe · May 10, 2016

flyingfarley said:
I have always done it the way Threewood described.....unbolt the bolts....take out the key in the axle...install back on the axle with the nut turned on a small way, and use the drum as a slide hammer...works every time. You wont wreck anything...these are tuff. parts...if the bearing was good...just grease it and reinstall...reuse the shims that were there if everything was OK

Please see the picture below....that must me puller C-499 mentioned in the service manual

khryslerkid · May 10, 2016

That might be the ideal tool for the job but it would be hard to find. So you have to improvise.
A sliding hammer kit should be available at the local parts store, for rent.

Find one similar to this one. Remove the drum/hub assembly. Remove the backing plate and shims. Place the brake drum/hub back on the axel. Replace the castle nut back on but don't compress the hub. Install the sliding hammer to the wheel studs and off you go.

Jappe · May 10, 2016

khryslerkid said:
That might be the ideal tool for the job but it would be hard to find. So you have to improvise.
A sliding hammer kit should be available at the local parts store, for rent.
View attachment 336525
Find one similar to this one. Remove the drum/hub assembly. Remove the backing plate and shims. Place the brake drum/hub back on the axel. Replace the castle nut back on but don't compress the hub. Install the sliding hammer to the wheel studs and off you go.

Yup, that is what I found as well but what scares me is that the manual told me "do not use a slide hammer". A friend of mine runs a garage and he has a couple of slide hammers with different adapters so that shouldn`t be a big deal. But if something went wrong I have to find a new rear end. Tough job in Germany...wrong country for early MoPars ;-)

I will check it with a good friend if he wants to assist me. He already mentioned it depends on you if something went wrong.

Currently I don`t want to replace the 64 axle with a 65 or later becasue it is all original on my car only the paint job and the interior is rebuilt to get a proper view and I love her very much....more than my ex girlfriend, that is why she became my ex...lol

35desoto · May 10, 2016

Swapping a post 66 diff head into a 62 - 65 diff housing is not straight forward. The axles are longer in t earlier ones and need to be ground down to allow t later diff head to go in and the axles to fit. There is a knack to doing this swap as you cannot use t later axles either
Cheers Brett

Jappe · May 11, 2016

Oh dear. Really? Thought the diff is an interchangeable part. Could you explain what in Detail I have to do to make it fit? As far as I know the rebuilt Diff I' ve got was out of an 73 Challenger 340 but it wasn't the stock one. The stock one was a 489 which we reinstalled.

Now I thought I can simply swap the rebuilt 741 3.23 with the 741 2.76 on my original 1964 Polara.

What I understood so far is that I have to customize the axles. But what in Detail do I have to prepare to get herback on the street asap?

Cheers,

Jan

35desoto · May 11, 2016

The axles need to be custom fitted to the diff head. You need to work out the running clearance required and shorten the axles according. This may be .050 or greater. Its not a straight swap to put a post 66 head into the pre 66 housing. Yes it bolts in fine but the difference is caused by the way the preload is taken up on the later housing and hence why there is a bearing change in 66. You can certainly use all the parts you have but the axles have to be shorten to gain the right clearance. I'm in New Zealand so I cannot recommend any one up your way to assist you other than that banging your axles in will result in the wrong (read no) clearance and a collapse of the third member. Once the axles have been modified she works as good as later model one

Redponymc · Jun 1, 2016

Correct, the early axles are longer, I had to cut mine down by about 1/8" or so. Don't remember exactly but if you contact www.drdiff.com he is the Mopar rearend driveline expert and he will have answers to any differential swap and replacement question you may have. Good luck. Oops, the web address should be www.doctordiff.com.

tapered axle puller

Jappe

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grubby65

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threewood

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Jappe

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Sixpaksteve

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Jappe

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flyingfarley

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Jappe

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khryslerkid

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Jappe

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35desoto

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Jappe

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35desoto

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Redponymc

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