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I am not certain it is ignition at all yet. But it is acting the same as it did when it was losing a plug wire. It very well may be something to do with the secondaries in this new AVS.

I tinkered with my timing today. Since putting the 383 in it has had this funk about hard acceleration. All it takes is a quick wick of the throttle and it instantly goes from cruising like a champ to missing as if a plug wire came off. Shut it off and let it cool, it runs like a champ again. I...

I really dig military aircraft! I think my favorite is a UH-1 but I am also mesmerized by the F-4 Phantom. I have gotten the honor of flying in the Osprey as well. Really strange platform!

Had to revive this old thread. Have you ever had any issues out of these wires during hard acceleration? I had one that would pop off the plug. Then I tweeted it a bit and it will stay on, but now one of them will stop firing once I drop the hammer.

These are pics of what I am working with. The one with bolts in the housing is my original compressor. The other is my replacement. Can this EPR stuff be swapped?

So can I swap the EPR stuff out for my thermostatic piece? Would I be better off getting a new compressor? I was gonna say my original had some kind of elements or something in that port that led me to believe it had something to do with temps but wasn't exactly sure how to word that.

So my original '66 compressor seized up a few years back and threw my belts off, I am guessing I am not the first to have that experience. I was given a rebuilt compressor from a guy who said he removed it from a '66 Coronet and it was running. The compressor seems to be functional and healthy...

I bought a Blaster 2 which comes with its own ballast. When I swap coils I swap the ballast accordingly. I also switched from an orange box (made in China) to a chrome box (made in 'murica). Neither swap made a difference. Never thought about the gas cap. It is the stock cap. 50 years old of...

In an attempt to do the check you described, I couldn't get it to fire up, so I continued my voltage checks. I broke down and popped the switch out. I started checking the posts on the back and everyone was on deck except IGN2 which is the brown wire going to the ballast resistor. At no point...

I finally got the chance to dive in with a multimeter. My first obvious concern is the voltage of the charging system overall. Right off the top the battery is showing about 13.85V. The car will fire up and run, but as it is running the voltage will gradually decrease. Once it got down to around...

ECU is grounded to the block as well as the firewall. The coil did feel hotter than I thought it should after the engine shut off with the new coil. I gotta check the voltage in the "run" position for sure. New coil, ballast, switch. Planning on checking that reluctor gap again. I am pretty...

Well, it wasn't the coil or the ECU. I have replaced both of those and the ballast. It runs solid and then after something gets up to temperature it shuts off as if I turned the key off. Try to start it back and it goes back to only firing when the switch goes back to the "off" position. I am...

Spoke too soon. After idling for five minutes it shut off like it suddenly lost fire and immediately went back to the same symptoms. I have a new coil on the way to eliminate that possibility.

Problem seems to be solved by moving that wire. It fired right up and rumbled around better than it has ever ran. Thanks for all y'all's input!

Alright.......a local Mopar buddy brought a box full of things to try tonight. Just for an extra set of eyes and another brain to fry over this. We went through the wiring and he verified that I was right in how it is wired. We switch ECUs to one he had. No change. We switched to a 6AL just for...

Not yet. I am thinking that is the next thing to do. I might have to swallow my pride and round up some of the brand X guys around here to help shove this beast up the driveway until a new one arrives. I am looking up different wiring diagrams in the meantime. I'm telling y'all, what I have...

I did all of this today. No change so far. I am almost positive it is something going on witht the "run" wire. I even hotwired it to try and see if I could force it to fire and got nothing. As I was cranking it, I quickly unhooked the Hotwire and hooked it back up and it tried to start. But...

Well, I made it back from my trip across the pond again. I dug the Charger out of storage and began tinkering with it. Immediately it began giving me ignition headaches again. As mentioned above, I worked through the gremlins in the earlier part of this thread. I now have a new issue. My...

I worked in NASCAR for a good ten years. The level of quality that goes into those engines is phenomenal. But they sounded so damned crisp and clean with the 14.5:1 or higher compression that you can actually hear the most minor difference in an ill cylinder. They are so much easier to tune by...

That stick sounds similar to mine. I like the sound of good compression. That "poppy" makes for crispness in the idle and throttle response. I am still entertaining installing that Whiplash to get me angry sounding as I wanna be. Just dragging my feet. I think the VooDoo stuff is good quality...