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You are likely going to have to pull the starter out. It 'sounds' like it could be a failed bendix. Sometimes they fail and the gear will just spin freely on the end of the starter. So when you try to start, everything engages but the gear won't turn the engine over, it will just slip.

I have never liked silicone for 'oil related' gaskets. Silicone seems to swell from oil and is then unusable.

Features and specs: * SFI 29.1 certified * Forged one-piece steel ring gears * 0.035 in. thicker than stock flexplates * Constructed from cold-rolled premium steel * Long-lasting platinum finish that helps prevent rust * Lighten for quicker throttle response So, what does that last line mean...

None of the factory overdrive transmissions will bolt up to the B/RB engines without an adapter. They will bolt up to the small blocks easily enough, just not big blocks.

When I put the tunnel ram on my 65 Fury (440), only the carbs poked through the hood. None of the manifold itself showed.

My experience with this would be to recommend the stud girdle. It is cheap insurance. When you approach the 600 HP range in big blocks, you will start to get cap walk. This will eventually crack any cap, cast, steel, or aluminum. I use stud girdles in even milder (500 hp and less) engines...

If you are trying to do this on the cheap, just pick up a set of 'Add-a-Leaf' springs. You will likely get about an inch or so lift. I have used them many times and the biggest drawback is just getting them installed, but worth it in my opinion. jus sayin...

I enlarged the photo and it is too grainy to tell. But, as others have said, ask if it is a 2 bbl carb. No 440s ever came with a 2 bbl (OEM). FWIW, at a glance, I would say it is a 383.

Did you check the fluid level idling in Neutral? The symptoms you describe sound like low fluid level.

This is the K frame on my 65 Belvedere drag car.

Definitely retorque the oil pan bolts. I have had them loosen up many times.

Doesn't the 400 B engine have a 4.32 bore?

You are correct.

In my 65 Fury, I used a 1973 Monaco cross menber because it was set up for the newer spool mounts. I used a later style 727 trans, not certain of the year, was likely a 70-74 ish model. If your trans is further back because of an adapter plate, you might be able to get away with a simple flat...

The captive mounts are the same for 904 and 727.

You will run into fitment issues swapping rears if your Coronet has the isolated suspension, The one that has a box and rubber pads around the rear springs for the axle to mount to. This setup uses an axle mounting pad that has a large centering hole compared to 'normal' mounts. You would do...

It's actually a slant 6 mount, might also be used with the V8's.

OK, i am just curious, but my OEM style motor mounts have this 'flap' of metal that sort of hangs over the side of the mount. For the life of me, I cannot see what purpose this serves. Any ideas?

It looks like you damaged the exhaust valve seat area in some pics. If you are lucky, lapping the valves will fix that. If not, machine shop will likely need to either recut or replace the seat. You'll typically get better results concentrating on the roof of the port, instead of the floor...

I agree with all the responses so far. Over 30 years, Tunnel Ram on 440 w/factory ring gaps, no problems other than it seems to increase the wear on my rear tires, but that could be unrelated.....