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Even single adjustable drag shocks are ok on the street, just not ideal. Typically they are fixed compression and adjustable rebound with the compression rate being pretty stiff.
I read an article some time back showing the Indy single plane as making most power. I ran one on my 62' for the past few years but honestly couldn't say how much it impacted my "streetability" - given everything else on the motor :)
I fought leaks on mine (valve covers & oil pan) for some time. Tried every type of gasket known to man to no avail. Then I realized that my evacuation tube check valves were shot and I had too much crank case pressure. Only thing that leaks these days is the damn front seal on my 727....
Can anyone validate these home brew mixtures?? They sure beat the little bump you get for $10 a tank using the commercial stuff.
I run an RB on the street with 11.3:1 CR, CNC ported Indy 440-1 heads, aluminum intake,(water pump, timing cover and just about anything else I could buy that was...
They do raise the octane (rating) a bit and can help with a motor that is in the detonation zone but from what I understand they do not increase the heat value of the fuel to actually give anymore power?
Just to be clear, the inlet to the pump (not the entire pump) should be below the tank - and the outlet on the tank should be near the bottom of the tank (not top). You don't want the pump inlet properly placed and then have it trying to suck fuel out of the top of the tank either.
That's what I went with recently too. I replaced some Flowmasters to reduce the backpressure. I was really amazed when I started doing the research just how big a difference there is between chambered and straight through. It makes sense when you think of it but I guess I was dupped into...
Any of the straight through glass pack designs (Dynomax, Cherrybomb etc.) will be your best bet for performance, ie minimum backpressure. Last research I did for mufflers that could be used ont he street it looked like the Dynomax Ultraflows were the best in terms of minimum backpressure. I have...
I'm running 4:56s with 28" tires but my car is only used for local cruise ins and car shows. Anything over a 25-30 mile I usually trailer it (its cheaper). At 55mph I run 3100 rpm. It is not a good set up for the street. The only reason I have not changed gears yet is because I run a Dana 60...
My RB likes 38 total. I run a 11.3:1 CR on pump gas with a bigger cam .632/.632 (but 1.5 rockers now) and 276/286 duration at 0.5" with a 106 degree LSA. I use an MSD dizzy with the largest bushing (18 degree delta) so my initial is supposed to be 20. I say supposed to be because I can't really...
Sorry if i misunderstood the comment. I thought you were indicating that restrictors don't impact oil pressures. My experience is that adding restrictors in line to the heads will increase oil pressure some. Especially noticable with high volume/pressure oil pumps.
I beg to differ. Just removed my restrictors to the heads and dropped from the usual 80 psi cold (regulated) to 72 psi with warm temps effected even more.
I ran a set on mine for awhile with no failure issues. On the strip they were fine but any type of skinney bias belt tire for street use is not real fun. They want to follow every little groove and dent in the road. Makes you wonder how we survived 40-50 years ago :)
Of course the Hoosier Quick...
They are not just for stokers either. They also work well for high rev stock stroke motors. I run them on my stock stroke 452ci with a big roller cam and made power up to about 73-7400 rpm. They are best for applications that like to breath... or motors that pump alot of air. I also agree with...
They do look similar. Have you ever found a chrome or aluminum cover for these types that are held done with a bolt? I've looked to no avail. I have mine painted "aluminum"...