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Sometimes you can get a vacuum source from the intake manifold itself instead of the Carb. Something else to look in to.

Forget Nylocks, check out Top Locks. One time use... We ran those in the off road racing truck we built and they never failed.

Are you trying to run the fluid damper? I've read so many bad things about runing that style on street cars. I bought and run the one for $120.00 with the weight that can change between external and internally balanced engines. I ran this one on both an external and internal balanced engine and...

Sounds like its still retarded. I bet the oil pump drive gear is not in the right slot. I'd start over with engine at TDC on compression stroke on #1(both valves closed). Then do your 15 to 20 degree advance and try again. The 1st time I fired up a BB Mopar I was off by about half a distributor...

I recently stumbled upon Nicks Garage on Youtube and love it! Glad to see someone out there specializing in Mopar engine builds. Love watching all the dyno videos. "Ok, Lets go!"

Sounds like my Stealth heads. They claimed .550 lift on their springs. I broke 1 with a .513 lift cam, and consequently the web site had changed to .500 lift. I also changed the locks/retainers right off the bat.

2" Lowering block in the rear. 1.10 Hotchkis T bars, lowered the front a bit and had it aligned. Kern Dog's response is on point!

Nitto 555r's work great on the street! I try to spin tire and it spins for like 2 seconds, hooks and goes. At full street PSI! and 3:91 gears

Still carbed? I guess a Holley blue would work with a regulator. I'd go in tank pump and then you can go with a Walhbro 255.

I just went through all this with my SSBC kit. Go to your local Hydraulic Line Supply. The fitting on the caliper side is an OLD Jaguar type fitting. It's long and not very common. 60$ish bucks and 10 mins and I had my new lines ready to go. I dont recall the fitting sizes, sorry.

That'll do the trick! 7.90 first time out is very respectable IMO. What does your car weigh? I found that 16-18 lbs in the rear tires with the Nitto DR's work very well at the track.

Had a Fitech. Computer was bunk, they denied it. Summit took it back for an exchange for the Holley Sniper. Never looking back. It's a long story, I tried to support the little guy, but in the end their cust service pushed me over the edge.

I did all 3/8" hard line, using B nuts and unions along the way. Only part I used a soft line was right off the tank and then the last segment going up to the EFI unit.

Rotella used to be good for Zinc content. They have changed the formula as of a year or two ago.

Brad Penn is a semi synthetic. As far as I know it's the only oil to have enough ZDDP added for flat tappet cams. That's what I run.

https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car-maintenance/car-maintenance-archive/how-to-do-a-leakdown-test

Good new! Old bronze bushing had no oil groove. Got it out and looks like .009 or so slop. Shaft was a little worn but only .001. New bushing has .003 clearance. So I'm pretty sure that was it and is in spec! Gonna change the filter after a little run time and should be good to go.

Yea, I'm going to check the shaft bushing first, and if that's not it then check for crank shaft play. I read it should be like .004-.005 or so? Less or more and it's an issue with thrust bearings. If I never cut the filter open, I would have never known! Maybe sometimes ignorance is bliss! haha

Called PTC and anything in the 9.5" range gets anti balloon plates as standard. So I'm hoping that rules that out. Oil pressure hot and cold have not changed at all. 75ish cold and 25-30 hot idle. Investigating more on Saturday.

I did just swap it to an auto last thanksgiving. Its a PTC converter and should be anti ballooning. Interesting. I'll have to check that out as well. Thanks!