1966 Charger Overheating

[Jeremiah]

I would be looking for a problem with how the system is designed in this case. I ran a 500" stroker in my '66 with iron heads and lot of compression with a 185 thermostat. I used a Champion 3-row radiator with a 14 or 16" single electric fan and it never went over 215 in traffic out here in the desert.

Do you happen to have a infrared thermometer that will show what the actual-ish temp is in the inlet hose, outlet hose, and on the thermostat housing? That may help us enderstand what is happened when the car warms up.

Also, how much ignition timing do you have at idle speed? Are you 100% sure that the timing mark on the damper is actually TDC? If you had the timing way advanced this could cause your overheating issue if you are wondering where I am going...

 

[Roland]

I know the timing is correct. I've even had someone look to make sure I wasn't completely incompetent with the timing. I can pick up an infrared thermometer to see the actual temps. When it hits 215 she stops wanting to run. And from there it just climbs and climbs. On your 500 stroker was the exhaust wrapped? Did you have any kind of heat release through the hood or fenders? I feel like there is just simply too much heat in the engine compartment.

 

[terzmo]

running down the road and overheating points to rad
overheating at idle/heaving traffic points to not enough airflow through rad...I always run 6 blade steel fan with clutch and properly fitted shroud...

 

[kb67mopar]

Are you 100% sure you don't have a leaking head gasket or cracked head? Either of these two problems can create an issue. You should do a cooling system pressure test...basically you pressurize the system and let it sit, if the pressure in the system drops you have a leak. Then you depressurize, start the car and while the system is still cool, if the pressure increases quickly you are leaking through into the cooling system with compression...the air causes the overheating issue.

Until you prove that this is not your problem there is nothing else to check because you have gone in the right direction already.

 

[Bigal75]

If you realy need an electric fan then look for a fan and shroud assembly off of a Lincoln Mrk VIII or get a new one from Ford. It's a monster that's more than capable of cooling your engine. CFM range from 4300 to 5500 (dual speed fan)

I think the part # is: F8LH 8C607 AA

BUT it draws 42amps! Better have an upgraded electrical system!

 

[Roland]

Head gaskets were recently replaced and I thoroughly inspected the heads. Guess I could pressure test anyway. Thanks. And electric fan is a must. Also have a 165 amp alternator on so I'm good there.

 

[67 coronet]

take a look at flex-a-light dual strait blade fan assemblys.jegs and summit carry them.they pull less then 40 amps and pull 4600 cfm.they come with a shroud assembly.work great here in vegas summer at over 120 deg heat.i tryed a setup like you have and it didnt compare to those fans at all.

 

[500stroker]

Finally got a chance to get some pics.

Sorry it took so long for me to respond.
The biggest problem I see in the pics are the electric fans.
- Electric fans pushing and pulling, never work outs, they actually work against each other.
- The fans are not drawing air thru the whole rad core.
Save your money from buying expensive electric fans and get a good non flexing 6 or 7 blade fan driven off the water with a fan shroud that will draw air thru the entire core of the radiator, anything less will not work.
I have built and seen a lot of Hot Rods and I have never seen an electric fan that works as well a full shrouded mechanical fan.
- It looks like the your overflow tube just dumps to the ground.
Add a overflow/recovery bottle to your system that will hold at least 32oz this will keep the radiator full at all times and help add cooling capacity to the system.
- Looks like the rad is of large size, covers the grill opening and aluminum which will handle coolant at a higher flow rate because it will transfer heat faster. I recommend that you add high flow after market t-stat 180 degree and if you ever need to change out the water pump use a after market high flow.
By making the system flow more coolant you will take advantage of the aluminum rad you purchased.
There are some who will disagree with what I am telling you, all I can say is try it and I'll beat you see a big difference.
Keep it old school the way it was intended to be.

 

[SwedCharger67]

Changing the radiator hoses to the "straight" type might improve circulation somewhat. Is your circulation pump doing what it's supposed to do?

 

[coloradodave]

I thought I had to run electric fans on my 63 Fury as I only had 2 3/4" between the water pump pully face and the aluminum radiator core. I used a s/s 17" fan from Mancini with a 1" spacer. I also had them custom make a shroud, which was very reasonable. The motor is a built 440 with max wedge heads and intake and runs at 180-190*, even in 105* weather. I spent a lot of time researching as I wanted to run a clutch fan, but even the shortest ones were too long. I'm very happy with this set-up. Remember what these guys are saying: If it cools well going down the road, your system is fine. Look to the fan/shroud combination for an answer.