JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Have you put any high build on and blocked yet? I shot 2 high build, blocked, shot 2 epoxy at least twice and in some places (hood) three times to get it flat.
1969 GTX....The T stands for tetanus
- Thread starter threewood
- Start date
No high build, I have 5 coats of epoxy.
Here is the car after 3 coats of Akzo Nobel Wanda base. This stuff sprays great and smooth as silk, kind of wish I didn't have to put clear over it lol. I actually giggled when I got done spraying coat #3, looks like a new car. Far cry from where I started.
Here is the car after 3 coats of Akzo Nobel Wanda base. This stuff sprays great and smooth as silk, kind of wish I didn't have to put clear over it lol. I actually giggled when I got done spraying coat #3, looks like a new car. Far cry from where I started.
Glenwood
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nice work!
And here are some shots in clear coat. Two nice wet coats of SPI Euro 5000 clear. Got several sags and runs which I need to take care of. Both sail panels where I overlapped coming over the roof. But it is shiny and sealed now....hope it looks good in the sunlight lol
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Feels good, doesn't it!
Phillipkj4
Well-Known Member
Looks great, was told you did not spray on enough if you did not get any runs!
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
I think I said that Barry's opinion is he will never tell anyone they are putting his clear on too heavy, too light yes but never too heavy!
It does feel good, such a relief to get it out of the way. Hope the neighbors didn't mind the chemical fog rolling out of the garage. I hope 2 thick coats is enough.
Going to be using a razor and de nibbing file to eradicate to runs, ordered some 800 to 2000 grit paper to shine it up a bit.
Going to be using a razor and de nibbing file to eradicate to runs, ordered some 800 to 2000 grit paper to shine it up a bit.
No problems with that!
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
There is a long thread on the SPI forum about fixing runs. I found the fastest and easiest way for me was to put masking tape around the edges of the run then use a very hard piece of wood (oak) as a block and block it down ensuring that you are on the tape (both ends of the block always). This allowed me to use 500 grit to get the meat of it down then remove the tape and use 1000 on the block to feather it in.
Heck yea, I'll try that out. Thanks for the tip!
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Make sure it is good and hard too. The run will take a lot longer to harden. If it is gummy in the center it will not work well (especially with the razor trick that I could not get comfortable with). If you can put it out in the sun everyday for a week that would be good. I waited 3 weeks before working on the runs since mine is marooned in the garage. That is the beauty of Barry's clear I guess, you can work on it in the next 3 weeks or next 3 years it doesn't matter. Other clears you have to do the cutting and buffing in a time window from my understanding.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
BTW Barry likes at least 3 coats of clear on. I have 5 then blocked it down with the oak to remove any urethane wave. You wanted a bit of orange peal to be more like the original enamel paint correct? So you don't have as much to sand as I did.
Correct. I am not after a mirror, more like a factory finish so I just need to clean up the runs and a few spots with trash.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
I think the 3 coats was more of a UV protection argument than anything else if I recall correctly.
Sixtynine_Bird
Well-Known Member
Nicely done looks sweet 
Great progress
Gas tank is in, getting the brake lines in order now. Put the E brake in and running the cable back. Might be too short so I have to figure out whats going on.
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