I finally got it back from my local "body guy". He was doing some cowl and floor pan work. Cowl is mostly OK but I have already started cutting out his floor "repair" work ... I know I can weld better than he did. It's just too hot to work on it right now.
1969 GTX....The T stands for tetanus
- Thread starter threewood
- Start date
Here are a few pics of the fan. I had to take off 1/4" from the end of the blades as it just barely rubbed. Scribed a line with calipers and used a cutoff wheel.
And what started as me putting my speedo cable in ended with me punching a hole in my header while clearancing it from the torsion bar lol. So I pulled the torsion bar, hammered it up and welded. The speedo cable is still laying there...
And what started as me putting my speedo cable in ended with me punching a hole in my header while clearancing it from the torsion bar lol. So I pulled the torsion bar, hammered it up and welded. The speedo cable is still laying there...
That sucks! It had been there for a year, right? I did all my own work because I'm a cheapskate lmao but also because I have a hard time trusting shops to do quality work. I hope you get it figured out, and hot it is so hydrate.
After chasing electrical gremlins in my headlight circuit, I figured out the problem.......ammeter. I bypassed it and now they work as normal.
I also added 4oz of lsd Mopar friction modifier to quiet the sure grip down which was popping around turns. Took it out and drove in circles and it seems to be doing the trick. Still a bit of rear end noise at very low speed but I am hopeful it will get in the clutches fully.
Temps are still normal, plus I added a Stant 16lb radiator cap to keep it from boiling.
I believe she is drivable
I also added 4oz of lsd Mopar friction modifier to quiet the sure grip down which was popping around turns. Took it out and drove in circles and it seems to be doing the trick. Still a bit of rear end noise at very low speed but I am hopeful it will get in the clutches fully.
Temps are still normal, plus I added a Stant 16lb radiator cap to keep it from boiling.
I believe she is drivable
I think many of us are in that group - we know we can do it better and very much cheaper . . . because we can !
Good job !
Update. I figured out there was an issue with the high beam wire (red) so I ran a new one from the bulkhead to the floor dimmer and while I was in it I ran a new light green wire from the floor dimmer to the headlight switch.
I still need to wire in the high beam indicator, which was on the same red wire circuit but I want to check if the connection on the dash is good first.
And I completed the ammeter bypass. The red and black bulkhead wires were spliced into a 10 gauge wire, out the bulkhead and into a 16ga fusible link to the starter relay +. I also ran the black alternator wire to the + through a 14ga fusible link.
Then I installed my high / low headlight relays right on the radiator support. Everything works great. I am still waiting on a length of fusible link to put on the hot side of the relay.
Next step is to install a volt meter.
I still need to wire in the high beam indicator, which was on the same red wire circuit but I want to check if the connection on the dash is good first.
And I completed the ammeter bypass. The red and black bulkhead wires were spliced into a 10 gauge wire, out the bulkhead and into a 16ga fusible link to the starter relay +. I also ran the black alternator wire to the + through a 14ga fusible link.
Then I installed my high / low headlight relays right on the radiator support. Everything works great. I am still waiting on a length of fusible link to put on the hot side of the relay.
Next step is to install a volt meter.
I am done harassing the neighborhood today
I replaced the pass rear wheel cylinder because I was getting a kind of grind / rub sound when braking hard...no change so i don't know what's up. Brakes bled fine, no restrictions, all new hardware. After driving around in forward and reverse to adjust the brakes the pass rear was hotter than the rest so it is stopping. I even locked both rear up with the e brake. I'm almost wondering if the new drum is warped??
And I drained the break in coolant cleaner, replaced the 195 thermostat with a 180 (no idea where or why I used a 195!) but it is running cooler now. While I was in there I noticed the fan ate my foam tape sealing the shroud to the radiator lol. So I added gorilla tape to seal it for now.
And for the test drive it got a little sporty. I got on it pretty hard out of the neighborhood and although the engine was revving nice I didn't notice I was laying 2 strips of rubber for half a block
And out on the road i was into it about 3/4 throttle and stayed into it straight to 5800 and shifted, burning my tires most of the way. This car is awesome!!! I have my wheels and rims ordered. Wheel Vintique 63 Steelies, 15x8 rear, 275/60R15 Cooper Cobras; 15x6 front 225/70R15 Cooper Cobras. Plus Summit will mount and balance for free.
I replaced the pass rear wheel cylinder because I was getting a kind of grind / rub sound when braking hard...no change so i don't know what's up. Brakes bled fine, no restrictions, all new hardware. After driving around in forward and reverse to adjust the brakes the pass rear was hotter than the rest so it is stopping. I even locked both rear up with the e brake. I'm almost wondering if the new drum is warped??
And I drained the break in coolant cleaner, replaced the 195 thermostat with a 180 (no idea where or why I used a 195!) but it is running cooler now. While I was in there I noticed the fan ate my foam tape sealing the shroud to the radiator lol. So I added gorilla tape to seal it for now.
And for the test drive it got a little sporty. I got on it pretty hard out of the neighborhood and although the engine was revving nice I didn't notice I was laying 2 strips of rubber for half a block
And out on the road i was into it about 3/4 throttle and stayed into it straight to 5800 and shifted, burning my tires most of the way. This car is awesome!!! I have my wheels and rims ordered. Wheel Vintique 63 Steelies, 15x8 rear, 275/60R15 Cooper Cobras; 15x6 front 225/70R15 Cooper Cobras. Plus Summit will mount and balance for free.
I swapped the ammeter with a Sunpro volt meter. I'll leave all the details to the imagination since I forgot to take pictures
I gutted the ammeter, stripped the guts out of the volt meter and mounted it straight to the aluminum faceplate with the tiny voltmeter screws. Small mods to the cluster stud holes and shrink wrap around the stud bases to finish.
Then when I got it all back together, the fuel gauge stopped working. So out it all came again. Turns out the the gauge was bad but the pin connector was also not well connected.
In the end, the volt gauge is swapped in and works well. And I got my speedo working!
With key on, 12.6v the needle is to the left..
At 3k rpm, 14.6v....
I gutted the ammeter, stripped the guts out of the volt meter and mounted it straight to the aluminum faceplate with the tiny voltmeter screws. Small mods to the cluster stud holes and shrink wrap around the stud bases to finish.
Then when I got it all back together, the fuel gauge stopped working. So out it all came again. Turns out the the gauge was bad but the pin connector was also not well connected.
In the end, the volt gauge is swapped in and works well. And I got my speedo working!
With key on, 12.6v the needle is to the left..
At 3k rpm, 14.6v....
Glenwood
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Interesting idea! I've been looking for a way to replace mine as well.
There are a few threads on line that referenced using the Sunpro CP8215 gauge. The needle is a little short but the old needle will super glue right onto it. At least for a 68-70 non rally dash.
Thanks for the part #, I'll get mine ordered today!
I think I figured out the rubbing / scraping when hard braking. The pass rear Chinesium drum has some flash that is being rubbed off by the shoe frames (bright spots) so i went around the entire lip and ground the flash off.
And I got my wheels and tires!! Just perfect. The rears still have plenty more room but the 275/60R15s fill it up nicely. I had to drop my front end down a bit to stay within the specifications of factory ride height. I may pull it out later this evening but it is about one hundred and hell degrees right now.
And I got my wheels and tires!! Just perfect. The rears still have plenty more room but the 275/60R15s fill it up nicely. I had to drop my front end down a bit to stay within the specifications of factory ride height. I may pull it out later this evening but it is about one hundred and hell degrees right now.
Glenwood
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the new steelies look awesome!
Looks all business! I am not usually a huge silver fan, but your combo with the black wheels looks bitchin'
Approved!
Approved!
As I stated in another thread, fix one thing on the car and another will break...guaranteed.
I had taken the car out after getting the wheels and the temps started creeping up and got worse on the highway. They came down a bit after slowing down. Granted the outside temp was 112* but it should have handled it.
I am certain the issue is the rust left in the block as the block was baked, the remaining I scraped out with a wire. But the water is still coming out rusty. There is also crud in the radiator.
I pulled the radiator, flushed it from bottom to top and a ton of rust flakes came out, same when flushing the block. After it was coming out clean, I installed a screen in the upper hose and buttoned it back together and filled with a mix of water and oxalic acid. Ran it up to hot idle in the garage and took it for a spin on the highway and the temp seems to be holding. I'll run it more tomorrow then flush again and maybe another oxalic acid treatment.
I had taken the car out after getting the wheels and the temps started creeping up and got worse on the highway. They came down a bit after slowing down. Granted the outside temp was 112* but it should have handled it.
I am certain the issue is the rust left in the block as the block was baked, the remaining I scraped out with a wire. But the water is still coming out rusty. There is also crud in the radiator.
I pulled the radiator, flushed it from bottom to top and a ton of rust flakes came out, same when flushing the block. After it was coming out clean, I installed a screen in the upper hose and buttoned it back together and filled with a mix of water and oxalic acid. Ran it up to hot idle in the garage and took it for a spin on the highway and the temp seems to be holding. I'll run it more tomorrow then flush again and maybe another oxalic acid treatment.
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Fingers crossed!
Put another 30 miles on it, highway and around town and the gauge stayed normal. I could actually see when the t stat opened as the temp needle would drop down while driving.
I am going to let it cool, then flush with fresh water to see what crud comes out, clean the upper hose screen, neutralize and refill. At least it seems to be keeping up in the heat with crud water flowing through the system.
No other issues except the rear pass brake rub which will not go away. I am going to pull the wheel and drum again to check axle endplay just to rule out the bearing (which is a new Timken) and I may add a washer over the studs just to see if it changes the rub.
Put another 30 miles on it, highway and around town and the gauge stayed normal. I could actually see when the t stat opened as the temp needle would drop down while driving.
I am going to let it cool, then flush with fresh water to see what crud comes out, clean the upper hose screen, neutralize and refill. At least it seems to be keeping up in the heat with crud water flowing through the system.
No other issues except the rear pass brake rub which will not go away. I am going to pull the wheel and drum again to check axle endplay just to rule out the bearing (which is a new Timken) and I may add a washer over the studs just to see if it changes the rub.
moparnation74
Well-Known Member
3wood
GTX looks awesome out of the garage....Love the silver and the wheels!
Justin
GTX looks awesome out of the garage....Love the silver and the wheels!
Justin
Are you planning a trip to the dragstrip??????
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