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318 Flywheel grinding

Garand-chan

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I attempted to search the site for this issue to no avail, so here goes. When I first got my Charger, it had one of the enormous, original style starters, so when it died, I replaced it with a mini starter for a 90s magnum motor. First, I tried a used one, and it made a horrible racket while running, as though the flywheel teeth were hitting the starter gear. I replaced it with a reman one from Autozone, and it worked fine for like 5 months. Then, it started grinding as well. It would do it in all gears, including park and neutral, and the volume and pitch would change depending on RPM. In park or neutral, I could rev the engine and it would go away for a few seconds. I decided to get a refund and buy a nice Powermaster unit. Well, last night I installed it and it’s even louder than before and it’s constant. It never goes away, so long as the engine’s running. I’m positive the sound is coming from there, as I confirmed it with a stethoscope. In addition, there’s the fact that it got worse after changing starters. The flywheel looks normal through the inspection plate while running, but the teeth are a little chewed up. Not horribly, but definitely not in perfect shape. I’m at my wits’ end at this point.

9CDD9DAA-6E00-48EB-85D3-FBD5D6A7C4F1.jpeg
 
Are you shimming your starter when you're installing? I've had issues in the past with just putting the starter in without shims and having it hit my flywheel.
 
Are you shimming your starter when you're installing? I've had issues in the past with just putting the starter in without shims and having it hit my flywheel.
I thought that MoPars never used shims. I thought that was just a GM thing. Huh. I’ve gotta be honest, I’m not even sure what shimming a starter would entail as I’ve never had to do it.
 
might just be the pic. but those teeth look a little done! I find another wheel and start over!
 
I would make sure the bell housing dowels are in place. Next I would make sure the starter is not being told to run. By that make sure the wire going from the relay to the solenoid is not being powered after you have released the key.
 
Okay, update. I reinstalled the starter with two spacer washers on each bolt and it’s fixed. So shimming was the answer, but now there’s a space between the bell housing and starter. Do they make actual shims for MoPar starters?
 
Okay, update. I reinstalled the starter with two spacer washers on each bolt and it’s fixed. So shimming was the answer, but now there’s a space between the bell housing and starter. Do they make actual shims for MoPar starters?
Never saw or ever needed to space out a Mopar starter. You got something cow **** there.
 
Do you have the starter shield in place?
 
Never saw or ever needed to space out a Mopar starter. You got something cow **** there.
Clearly, but the question still stands. I guess either the flywheel is too close to the gear or Vice versa in its retracted position.
 
Okay, update. I reinstalled the starter with two spacer washers on each bolt and it’s fixed. So shimming was the answer, but now there’s a space between the bell housing and starter. Do they make actual shims for MoPar starters?
You can get these starter spacers that look like:
s-l300.jpg
 
Clearly, but the question still stands. I guess either the flywheel is too close to the gear or Vice versa in its retracted position.
You might also check your crankshaft end play.
 
You might also check your crankshaft end play.
Good call. Thinking logically, I feel like that’s the only thing it could be. That being said, I’m probably not going to pull this motor until either I’ve got my 408 and 4 speed setup ready to go in or the little 318 gives up on me.
 
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