318 Rebuild suggestions

[STREETREBEL]

I have a 1968 318. I've heard they are a great block to build.
Looking for inexpensive suggestions to make good horsepower.
Thanks....

 

[R413]

Start with a 440 to meet your stated goals of inexpensive good horsepower. The extra $500- $1000 buy in price will put you ahead of the 318.

and I’m not being a smart ***, I mean it.

 

[STREETREBEL]

Start with a 440 to meet your stated goals of inexpensive good horsepower. The extra $500- $1000 buy in price will put you ahead of the 318.

and I’m not being a smart ***, I mean it.

I understand. 440's are all I build. That's why I was asking how to build a 318'

 

[68-500]

I understand. 440's are all I build. That's why I was asking how to build a 318'

Ive got a 68 short block also. My thinking is steel shim head gaskets, closed chamber cylinder heads, a 108 lsa 210* @.050 cam, perfomer type intake. Its not going to blow any doors off but it should get along nicely. What you plan on putting in?

 

[rumblefish360]

I have a 1968 318. I've heard they are a great block to build.
Looking for inexpensive suggestions to make good horsepower.
Thanks....

What kind of power are you looking for? In what rpm range will the engine be used in? How heavy is the car? 87 octane?
These 3 questions are a need to know before blind build parts are thrown at you like a free for all frisbee throwing contest.

I can start with pistons. KB offers a flat top and a small dome piston, both for high performance builds.
In ether case, general or high performance, I’d use the flat top zero deck height. In a more serious engine, the small dome pistons are a big help.

With cylinder heads, unless your using a small cam, less than 224@050, I’d use the Edelbrock heads, RPM intake & a 750 carb. Headers into a 2-1/2 exhaust pipe. 3 inch for racing only.
I would not reuse the 318 heads unless it was going back to exhaust manifolds or the performance level was under 350 hp. Which is starting to tax the small ports of the head.

You crank is forged.
Connecting rods are forged though new one would be cheaper than fixing old bent rods.
The blocks are normally on the thick side in the cylinders.

 

[RJRENTON]

IMO.....A 318 is a good engine, growing into a 340, a we all know how well they run. I would recommend paying attention to the oiling system, as I've experienced a couple of spun rod bearings, especially #5 & #6. Use a premium bearing, like Clevite tri metal, full groove mains @ 0.002" - 0.0025" clearance. Same material for the rod bearings at the same clearance and ARP hardware holding it together. Also recommend bushing the lifter bores to insure enough volume for the bearings. Also pay attention to the block's oil passages especially at the intersect points (for burrs, crud). My preference is a high VOLUME oil pump, along with your choice of oil and viscosity. Cam, carburation, manifold, compression ratio, and heads is your choice depending on intended use. With a 3.31" stroke (standard) the engine is willing to rev, but oiling was an issue for me....only too late.
BOB RENTON

 

[rumblefish360]

I would not bother with bushing the lifter bores until “Race Engine” came into play. Waste of time and money.

The only oiling mod I’d be bothered doing is making sure the passages are clean, clear & debured and the oiling hole out from the block into the heads enlarged if not at the diameter listed in the MP book.

On my earlier 318 blocks, I have found them to be large as casted. While this might not be the case for you, I’d check it and make it so. I’ve taken dead stock (unchecked head oiling holes) to 6800. NOT! An issue.

 

[dvw]

All stock parts. Not rebuilt but in decent running condition. 360 heads, intake, TQ, headers, Summit cam. Rear gear will help bunch. We've done this in a stock A body. Ran 14.0@100.
Doug

 

[Ron H]

Guess the question as posted fits: How much performance are you hunting for? Nothing wrong with a teen being a rock-reliable motor. Have a poly (original motor in ’63) having invested more cash in it than expected. Bored .60, solid lifters, middle range cam, ed 4bbl, headers, later TC, 3:55’s, etc. Was close to getting a 360 crate being talked out of it. Runs nice, peppy, still kind of doggy though MO. In other words, expected a bit more than it has for the hassle. Could be some unchartered territory on the advance (running full mechanical now). There are 318 guru’s – some guy is legendary on 318 builds, mentioned many times in posts and featured in car mags. Can’t recall his name offhand…Gary? Reading up on his work would be a suggestion, depending what results you’re looking for. Also, good discussion on the forum about it…tricking up a 318 isn’t cheap depending on how much you want out of it...300 or so HP easy, horses get much more expensive after this.

 

[rumblefish360]

Gary P. I’m not remembering how to spell his last name, something like, Pavolich? He’s a good fella and I’d bet willing to help. Always has been willing and very helpful.

 

[RemCharger]

Gary P. I’m not remembering how to spell his last name, something like, Pavolich? He’s a good fella and I’d bet willing to help. Always has been willing and very helpful.

Isn't that the poly guy?

 

[rumblefish360]

Isn't that the poly guy?

Yea, I thought we were talking about a poly above… somewhere…. Perhaps the morning’s coffee hasn’t taken effect yet with me. I thought I read… oh nevermind.

 

[Ron H]

Sounds like the OP has a later 318 but thought I'd chime in on poly's anyway.

 

[johnny ga]

bore it 30 over and build a 390 stroker

 

[rumblefish360]

bore it 30 over and build a 390 stroker

And that’s inexpensive?
Then to choke it with 1.78/1.50 - 318 heads?
Are you sure you read the first post right about “Inexpensive” in the build description?

 

[Master Gunner]

The short answer is there is no way to make decent power (300-400 hp) cheap with a LA318. You'd be much better off to go to a 360, more parts availability, easier to make power, externally the same as the 318. Of course if this is a numbers matching thing, then it's the normal stuff, heads, cam, and compression.

Mark

 

[rumblefish360]

The short answer is there is no way to make decent power (300-400 hp) cheap with a LA318. You'd be much better off to go to a 360, more parts availability, easier to make power, externally the same as the 318. Of course if this is a numbers matching thing, then it's the normal stuff, heads, cam, and compression.

Mark

I did mark it with a red x but I should start with “Provisionally” on the power level of ***. The reason being is really head flow. Most small block guys dump the iron head in favor of a better flowing better bang for the buck Edelbrock head.

IF the stock head is actually still good after all these decades past since new, the valve size and port window will not support much power. Exactly how much power or how low of a E.T. slip he is looking for can dictate the final cost like every build.

If had a dead stock ‘79-318 minus cam, headers, intake and carb run 14’s. This build is as follows;
‘78-318 @ 7.8-1 compression
Crane Hyd 272/284-218/226 (?) .454/.480-112
LD4B
600 carb
Standard 1-5/8 Hooker headers into a Jegs 2-1/2 exhaust
Stock converter/3.21 gears on stock tire size
Car was a ‘74 Duster

Not to shabby for a cam and bolt on parts.
When you do the comparison, it’s a little less power than the times turned with 340 Dusters.

Increasing the compression ratio on a full rebuild plus adding Edelbrock heads is an expense he will have to decide on. I’m s a minor cost for pistons and a little pricey on cylinder heads.