413 Max Wedge Valve Cover Removal

[GeorgeB62]

Hi all, dumb question from a newby to this type of engine.

I have a 62 Ply sedan, radio/heater delete etc etc with a 413 Max Wedge. Easy now...its a 440 hp block but has orig MW heads and manifold & Mancini repro as OE cast headers. Looks real, has all the right OEM parts (I mean exact except for the block & headers) but no build sheet and such and I dont think its a real one. Its a scream to drive and I mostly just tinker with it...then flog it on the roads wearing out the local 409's & Z-28's.

I have a little oil leak on each valve cover. 4 screws per cover. This is not hard stuff on any car, but I was reading that in order to remove the valve covers on this setup you have to remove the giant 2x4 manifold...another says engine has to come out...another says the pass side exhaust manifold has to come off.

While a newby to the 413 monster, I've been around cars a lot of years. This dont make no sense...really, just to fix a little leak? It does look tight, but I cant imagine you have to resort to one of the three options above just to remove a valve cover. Really...they designed this knowing you have to adjust the solid lifters?

BUT...rather than start a mess and install a bigger leak by trying to take them off and not succeeding and either messing up the gasket or worse...I wanted to check. I hope you fellas with the experience here can tell me true.

Appreciate it,
George

 

[zyzzyx]

You have to remove the air cleaners, the fuel line on the Passenger side just above the cover, and the perches for the return springs on the carbs that overhang above the cover you are trying to repair.
That's it! take you're four bolts out and carefully tap, pry, remove the cover. Try to buy a magnetic socket for those four bolts so you don't drop them. Good luck.

 

[GeorgeB62]

Thank you much. Now that makes sense. Will give it shot. Appreciate it.

 

[glassman]

Hi all, dumb question from a newby to this type of engine.

I have a 62 Ply sedan, radio/heater delete etc etc with a 413 Max Wedge. Easy now...its a 440 hp block but has orig MW heads and manifold & Mancini repro as OE cast headers. Looks real, has all the right OEM parts (I mean exact except for the block & headers) but no build sheet and such and I dont think its a real one. Its a scream to drive and I mostly just tinker with it...then flog it on the roads wearing out the local 409's & Z-28's.

I have a little oil leak on each valve cover. 4 screws per cover. This is not hard stuff on any car, but I was reading that in order to remove the valve covers on this setup you have to remove the giant 2x4 manifold...another says engine has to come out...another says the pass side exhaust manifold has to come off.

While a newby to the 413 monster, I've been around cars a lot of years. This dont make no sense...really, just to fix a little leak? It does look tight, but I cant imagine you have to resort to one of the three options above just to remove a valve cover. Really...they designed this knowing you have to adjust the solid lifters?

BUT...rather than start a mess and install a bigger leak by trying to take them off and not succeeding and either messing up the gasket or worse...I wanted to check. I hope you fellas with the experience here can tell me true.

Appreciate it,
George

Sounds like you got a hold of the long ram instructions.

 

[65 Plymouth Satellite 426]

You have to remove the air cleaners, the fuel line on the Passenger side just above the cover, and the perches for the return springs on the carbs that overhang above the cover you are trying to repair.
That's it! take you're four bolts out and carefully tap, pry, remove the cover. Try to buy a magnetic socket for those four bolts so you don't drop them. Good luck.

Yepper...He's Got It Right!

 

[David Buettner]

Hi all, dumb question from a newby to this type of engine.

I have a 62 Ply sedan, radio/heater delete etc etc with a 413 Max Wedge. Easy now...its a 440 hp block but has orig MW heads and manifold & Mancini repro as OE cast headers. Looks real, has all the right OEM parts (I mean exact except for the block & headers) but no build sheet and such and I dont think its a real one. Its a scream to drive and I mostly just tinker with it...then flog it on the roads wearing out the local 409's & Z-28's.

I have a little oil leak on each valve cover. 4 screws per cover. This is not hard stuff on any car, but I was reading that in order to remove the valve covers on this setup you have to remove the giant 2x4 manifold...another says engine has to come out...another says the pass side exhaust manifold has to come off.

While a newby to the 413 monster, I've been around cars a lot of years. This dont make no sense...really, just to fix a little leak? It does look tight, but I cant imagine you have to resort to one of the three options above just to remove a valve cover. Really...they designed this knowing you have to adjust the solid lifters?

BUT...rather than start a mess and install a bigger leak by trying to take them off and not succeeding and either messing up the gasket or worse...I wanted to check. I hope you fellas with the experience here can tell me true.

Appreciate it,
George

Well, I too am new to this set up in a 1963 Dodge 330. I have the engine on an engine stand with intake and exhaust manifolds in place. No way that valve cover comes off without either removing the intake manifold or the exhaust manifold on the right side. Left side, no problem.

What did you find with your’s after these responses?

Somebody tell me the secret.

 

[65hemi]

A buddy uses a couple of studs for his exhaust manifold. Just looses the nuts and slides the manifold along the studs until he can get the valve cover off. He does not have to remove the exhaust manifold.

 

[David Buettner]

That should work. I just find it hard to believe that is what it takes.

The OEM maxwedge exhaust piping is pretty stout stuff, so getting some movement might be a challenge.

Thanks for your reply.

 

[coloradodave]

I can't speak to removing the covers with the stock max wedge exhaust manifolds in place, but with headers and bolts, instead of studs for the valve covers, you CAN remove the covers. The top rear bolts have to be put in place and removed with a magnetized 1/4" drive socket and 6" extension.
Getting the new gaskets to seal has been a long process for me and the reason Chrysler went to 6 bolt heads). I've tried Moroso silicone, Cometics, FelPro rubber, FelPro extra tall and even had some custom made. All leaked various amounts of oil. I tried stock torque (48 in. lbs, 6 Ft. lbs), tighter and looser.
What I eventually did was to glue together 2 FelPro cork gaskets with K&W copper coat, then use a thin smear of black RTV silicone to glue them to the covers, and a very thin smear of the same to glue them to the heads. I then tightened them 'snug' with a nut driver.
* It's very important to make sure the bolts are not bottoming in the blind holes in the heads. Valve covers won't come off if you use studs...
* Make sure the covers are straight on the sealing flange and that the bolt holes are 'flat', that is, have not been pulled toward the head by too much torque in the past.
* Take a fine file and go over the sealing ridge on the heads to insure there are no 'nibs' sticking up to impede the cover from sitting flat.
I also made some 'Chevy' type hold down clamps to spread the load, but don't feel they are necessary if the cork gaskets are applied as above.

 

[Sonny Black]

I too have a 413 with 4 bolt covers...Permatex®Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant is waterproof and flexible....and a felt "gasket on the "outside" bolt ...
works for me

Cover needs to be strait

 

[khryslerkid]

This is what I did for a good seal. I have a pair of old CalCustom aluminum covers that aren't perfectly flat. Just enough that the gasket wasn't making a good contact at the two corners.

Make sure the valve covers are clean and dry.

Apply 3M Super weather adhesive to one side of the gasket and to the valve cover. (I used black so it's not obvious like the yellow.) Then place the gasket in the valve cover and let dry.

Then run a bead of Permatex Ultra Black gasket maker to the gasket. Make sure ahead of time that the head surface is clean and dry. Install the valve cover on the head immediately, install the fasteners and only finger tighten. Wait one hour then properly tighten the fasteners.

Worked great and haven't had any leaks.

 

[Jackpot50]

This is what I did for a good seal. I have a pair of old CalCustom aluminum covers that aren't perfectly flat. Just enough that the gasket wasn't making a good contact at the two corners.

Make sure the valve covers are clean and dry.

Apply 3M Super weather adhesive to one side of the gasket and to the valve cover. (I used black so it's not obvious like the yellow.) Then place the gasket in the valve cover and let dry.

Then run a bead of Permatex Ultra Black gasket maker to the gasket. Make sure ahead of time that the head surface is clean and dry. Install the valve cover on the head immediately, install the fasteners and only finger tighten. Wait one hour then properly tighten the fasteners.

Worked great and haven't had any leaks.

View attachment 526425

Yep that will work.