440 start up
- Thread starter ukieone
- Start date
1967coronet440
Well-Known Member
Pull distributor and gear prime the oil pump for 5-10 minutes reinstall gear and dizzy. Fuel it and fire it
451Mopar
Well-Known Member
Not sure where your starting from (what the engine machine shop did to prep the engine), so I will start with assuming the engine is installed, transmission / converter bolted up, exhaust connected, fuel system, cooling system (water only), and electrical connected, and transmission has some fluid it it, and is not in gear.
For engine oil, the best deal would be some Joe Gibbs Driven Break-in oil. I believe it is a low detergent oil, with high ZDDP levels so no additive is needed, but it should be changed fairly soon after break-in. I have used the Valvoline VR1 racing oil with a bottle of Red-Line Engine oil break-in additive. The VR1 and Driven Break-in oil are almost the same cost, but adding the Engine Oil Supplement (EOS) adds extra cost to the VR1.
When you go to prime the oil system, you will want to rotate the engine also. This is easiest with the spark plugs removed.
To verify oil flow to the rocker gear you would want the valve covers off.
You need to remove the distributor, and the oil pump drive, and then put a 3/8" hex oil priming rod through the distributor hole into the oil pump. The other end of the priming rod connected to a fairly heavy duty drill. A small drill can over heat pretty quick once the oil pressure comes up.
On a small block the drill rotation is clock-wise, and on the big blocks it is counter clockwise.
Start by running the drill for a few seconds, and check for leaks. Look around the back of the block where the oil sending unit goes, and also under the back of the block. If any of those were forgot to plug, they will make a big mess really quick.
Continue to prime until oil pressure builds up. Depending on the camshaft position you may or may not see oil getting the the rocker shafts.
If you prime for over a minute and are not getting oil pressure, check / reverse the drill rotation. If no oil pressure in either drill rotation, you have a problem. The oil pump might be sucking in air, an oil galley plug was not installed, or something is wrong with the oil pump.
If everything is going good, have pressure, rotate the engine while continuing to prime the oil pump. I like to have a helper rotate the engine by hand, but you could use the starter too.
You want to make sure oil is getting to the rocker gear on each head.
Next, you want to get the #1 piston near TDC on the compression stroke to setup the distributor. While rotation the engine, you should see the exhaust open/close, and then the intake open, and when it starts closing (coming up on the compression stroke), watch the dampner and stop about 10-15 degrees Before TDC.
Install the oil pump drive, clocking it so when the distributor is installed, the rotor points to the cap tower where you want the #1 spark plug wire to go.
Rotate the distributor to where the points just start to open, or the magnetic pickup aligns with the reluctor tooth. This should get the ignition timing close to what the dampner degrees is showing so the engine fires without messing with the timing. Connect distributor wiring to coil or ECU, and put rotor and cap on.
Snug the distributor so it is not loose, but can still be moved to fine tune the timing once the engine starts.
Now is when I usually install the spark plugs, before the valve covers, just makes it easier on a big block. Then install the valve covers, and spark plug wires in the correct firing order.
If you can pre-fill the carb fuel bowls, like through the vent tubes on a Holley, or have an electric fuel pump, then fill the carb fuel bowls. A small splash of fuel into the carb to get some fuel in the intake.
Note: In a well vented area because exhaust fumes will build up in a garage during engine break-in...
Turn on ignition, and start the engine. Might take a few tries if the carb was dry, but normally should fire fairly easy (assuming the ignition system is working correctly.)
Bring to a high idle. I usually screw in the idle speed screw to hold the minimum idle to 1,500+ RPM, then vary the engine speed between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm for a few minutes.
I think 15-20 minutes is the recommended camshaft break-in period, but keep an eye on engine temperature.
Adjust timing and carb for best tune, install air filter, ect..
I usually leave the break-in oil in the car for about 50-miles, before changing to regular (still high ZDDP) oil, and then drain the water from the radiator and add antifreeze/distilled water mix. Reason for water only at break-in is it cools better, and if the engine needs repair you don't waste/drip antifreeze on the ground.
That is mostly what I can think of. Double check throttle and transmission linkage, and trans fluid levels.
For engine oil, the best deal would be some Joe Gibbs Driven Break-in oil. I believe it is a low detergent oil, with high ZDDP levels so no additive is needed, but it should be changed fairly soon after break-in. I have used the Valvoline VR1 racing oil with a bottle of Red-Line Engine oil break-in additive. The VR1 and Driven Break-in oil are almost the same cost, but adding the Engine Oil Supplement (EOS) adds extra cost to the VR1.
When you go to prime the oil system, you will want to rotate the engine also. This is easiest with the spark plugs removed.
To verify oil flow to the rocker gear you would want the valve covers off.
You need to remove the distributor, and the oil pump drive, and then put a 3/8" hex oil priming rod through the distributor hole into the oil pump. The other end of the priming rod connected to a fairly heavy duty drill. A small drill can over heat pretty quick once the oil pressure comes up.
On a small block the drill rotation is clock-wise, and on the big blocks it is counter clockwise.
Start by running the drill for a few seconds, and check for leaks. Look around the back of the block where the oil sending unit goes, and also under the back of the block. If any of those were forgot to plug, they will make a big mess really quick.
Continue to prime until oil pressure builds up. Depending on the camshaft position you may or may not see oil getting the the rocker shafts.
If you prime for over a minute and are not getting oil pressure, check / reverse the drill rotation. If no oil pressure in either drill rotation, you have a problem. The oil pump might be sucking in air, an oil galley plug was not installed, or something is wrong with the oil pump.
If everything is going good, have pressure, rotate the engine while continuing to prime the oil pump. I like to have a helper rotate the engine by hand, but you could use the starter too.
You want to make sure oil is getting to the rocker gear on each head.
Next, you want to get the #1 piston near TDC on the compression stroke to setup the distributor. While rotation the engine, you should see the exhaust open/close, and then the intake open, and when it starts closing (coming up on the compression stroke), watch the dampner and stop about 10-15 degrees Before TDC.
Install the oil pump drive, clocking it so when the distributor is installed, the rotor points to the cap tower where you want the #1 spark plug wire to go.
Rotate the distributor to where the points just start to open, or the magnetic pickup aligns with the reluctor tooth. This should get the ignition timing close to what the dampner degrees is showing so the engine fires without messing with the timing. Connect distributor wiring to coil or ECU, and put rotor and cap on.
Snug the distributor so it is not loose, but can still be moved to fine tune the timing once the engine starts.
Now is when I usually install the spark plugs, before the valve covers, just makes it easier on a big block. Then install the valve covers, and spark plug wires in the correct firing order.
If you can pre-fill the carb fuel bowls, like through the vent tubes on a Holley, or have an electric fuel pump, then fill the carb fuel bowls. A small splash of fuel into the carb to get some fuel in the intake.
Note: In a well vented area because exhaust fumes will build up in a garage during engine break-in...
Turn on ignition, and start the engine. Might take a few tries if the carb was dry, but normally should fire fairly easy (assuming the ignition system is working correctly.)
Bring to a high idle. I usually screw in the idle speed screw to hold the minimum idle to 1,500+ RPM, then vary the engine speed between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm for a few minutes.
I think 15-20 minutes is the recommended camshaft break-in period, but keep an eye on engine temperature.
Adjust timing and carb for best tune, install air filter, ect..
I usually leave the break-in oil in the car for about 50-miles, before changing to regular (still high ZDDP) oil, and then drain the water from the radiator and add antifreeze/distilled water mix. Reason for water only at break-in is it cools better, and if the engine needs repair you don't waste/drip antifreeze on the ground.
That is mostly what I can think of. Double check throttle and transmission linkage, and trans fluid levels.
66Satellite47
Well-Known Member
During assembly I always use 20-50W Racing oil liberally on pistons & rings. Cam & lifters get liberal amount of "break in" moly/graffite cam lube. Then as stated by 451 prime the oil system with a priming shaft & drill motor (counterclockwise for BB, Clockwise for SB). With valve covers off, turn the motor over by hand (socket & breaker bar) while running the drill motor. Watch to be sure you get oil coming from all the rockers , this is critical. Valve covers on, set distributor at about TDC, start, adjust timing, run for about 10 - 15 minutes or so at about 2000 rpm, then vary the rpm up from 2000 for another 10 minutes or so. Change oil after 50 -100 miles or about 10 runs at the track.
HT413
Semi Pro Bowler
In addition to the above:
Carb: I pull the throttle springs off and set the throttle wherever I want it, that way it stays.
fill the bowls up before turning it over. Easiest to do off the motor so you don't flood it. If you flood it; just get a cup of coffee and wait a while before turning it over. It needs to start up IMMEDIATELY, so be patient.
Gauges: Verify your gauges work in advance - especially oil pressure, coolant temp and tach. If you don't have a tach, get the timing light out and set it so you can monitor rpm and properly set the throttle.
Exhaust: And as said above, hook up the exhaust, or you won't be able to hear anything important.
Coolant: fill the rad with as much as it will take, keep the rad cap off and keep a few jugs of coolant / D.I water on the ready. When the thermostat opens she'll need coolant quick.
Oil change: I believe brad penn recommends changing the breakin oil out after 20 minutes but I've read others say you can keep it in for a couple hundred miles. I vote for 20 minutes to an hour but that's just me.
Engine RPM - as said above, 1500-2000 rpm works and my builder recommended a few raps of the throttle along the way to get some crank splash.
Carb: I pull the throttle springs off and set the throttle wherever I want it, that way it stays.
fill the bowls up before turning it over. Easiest to do off the motor so you don't flood it. If you flood it; just get a cup of coffee and wait a while before turning it over. It needs to start up IMMEDIATELY, so be patient.
Gauges: Verify your gauges work in advance - especially oil pressure, coolant temp and tach. If you don't have a tach, get the timing light out and set it so you can monitor rpm and properly set the throttle.
Exhaust: And as said above, hook up the exhaust, or you won't be able to hear anything important.
Coolant: fill the rad with as much as it will take, keep the rad cap off and keep a few jugs of coolant / D.I water on the ready. When the thermostat opens she'll need coolant quick.
Oil change: I believe brad penn recommends changing the breakin oil out after 20 minutes but I've read others say you can keep it in for a couple hundred miles. I vote for 20 minutes to an hour but that's just me.
Engine RPM - as said above, 1500-2000 rpm works and my builder recommended a few raps of the throttle along the way to get some crank splash.
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