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65 satellite killing coils.

All those gray wires - has someone home fabricated an engine wiring harness to replace an old factory one? There should only be one wire on the driver side terminal of the ballast resister.
Don't assume the hot12v side of bajjast is on the same in 65 as 66. Ask me how I know.
 
1965 Wiring - Post #40 Picture

Both sides of the Ballast Resistor are directly fed off the ignition switch

1 Side / Brown off ignition switch to ballast - Dark blue off ballast to positive side coil

2 Side / Dark blue off ignition switch to ballast - Dark blue off ballast to alternator regulator ignition side

So Yes 4 wires
 
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When the car is running above idle , charging system , how many volts are you getting directly at the battery
 
So I tried to drive the car today, thinking I had fixed the issue. Today it wouldn’t even start! Just crank and crank and nothing. I checked voltage with the key in the “on” or “run” position (the position it reverts to after cranking and upon starting) and now these readings are different! I was getting full voltage to the coil, and now it seems to have been reduced through the ballast!
 

Coil + now

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I havent done anything to the car! All it did was sit between those old readings, and the new ones I took today!
 
Then I would still lean back to its the brown wire getting voltage when it shouldn't be. Which could be internal to the ign switch.
But right now it's not.
And your batt voltage is very low.
 
Possibly burnt out the brown wire contacts, that's why it won't start.
Jump batt + to the coil and it should start. Then pull wire off and it should keep running
 
If the brown wire doesn’t turn up a problem, I know it’s throwing parts at a problem but I would pop off the distributor cap, and examine the point contacts. If they look OK I would put a new condenser on it and see if it starts. Sometimes messing around with the ignition system can seem to trigger a condenser failure.
 
If the brown wire doesn’t turn up a problem, I know it’s throwing parts at a problem but I would pop off the distributor cap, and examine the point contacts. If they look OK I would put a new condenser on it and see if it starts. Sometimes messing around with the ignition system can seem to trigger a condenser failure.
Thought I’d check the points, and they were toast!

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Got new points, and was puzzled again. With the internally regulated coil, it wouldn’t start. And with the standard coil, it ran horribly!
 
Did you put a new condenser on it also? I don’t know - you may just have to go through a lot of diagnostics - examine distributor cap and rotor for flaws, ohm your plug wires for a bad one, short out each cylinder one at a time and see if you find a dead one, pull the plugs to see if any are hopelessly fouled, check for a vacuum leak (bad check valve on brake booster). Maybe others can add a few more.
 
So I was hoping the issue would be in the engine harness, and I ordered one from Evan’s Wiring. I put it on today, and I’m STILL GETTING 14v TO THE COIL!!! Man I convinced myself this was going to fix and was so disappointed to see nothing had changed! Pic of reading taken while car is running.

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Did you put a new condenser on it also? I don’t know - you may just have to go through a lot of diagnostics - examine distributor cap and rotor for flaws, ohm your plug wires for a bad one, short out each cylinder one at a time and see if you find a dead one, pull the plugs to see if any are hopelessly fouled, check for a vacuum leak (bad check valve on brake booster). Maybe others can add a few more.
Yes new condenser
 
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