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66 Dodge Charger in Arkansas

inferno

Member
Local time
9:19 PM
Joined
Feb 17, 2017
Messages
5
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Location
BENTON AR
Hey everyone. I'm a veteran spent 10 years in the air force and then moved back to Arkansas.
My car is a 1966 Charger. it was a survivor with original paint. one family owned it before me, MATCHING NUMBERS :) 80,000 miles. 383 auto with factory power brakes and a/c. it has been in the shop for the past 3 years. but I'm supposed to be getting it back this weekend(cant count how many times I've heard that). So anyways everything is new on the engine except the block bored out .060 and mildly stroked. new e-street edelbrock heads, performer rpm intake, electronic ignition engine is setting at 416 ci ready to go in. aprox 550 hp 600ft. lbs. torque. transmission has been rebuilt as well
I CAN'T WAIT
the to do list
1. limited slip differential
2. upgrade brakes to disk(has a new master cylinder and drums are working) and that probably means new wheels and tires. with that $$$$
3. interior already have a site for carpet seats are a different story
4. body is very strait but has a dented up fender right around the shaping at the front.
5. upgrading the suspension

If any one knows of a disk brake kit the will fit under factory 14s or a good limited slip diff that is streetable please let me know.

CHARGER.jpg
 
Nice. I like those cars in green.
 
Sounds like a nice ride, nice mods too

Welcome to FBBO from NorCal

for the limited slip diff & disc brakes call or go to the website for
DR. DIFF, or look them up on E-bay
here's the website
http://www.doctordiff.com/
he's a good guy willing to help too
The Ram Man/TRM is a decent source for Mopar OE style disc brakes too
SSBC may fit, but I think they say min 15" wheels

I like the QA1 suspension stuff, {among others}
not the cheapest, not by far the priciest either, affordable & quality
you can do a piece at a time as budget allows too...
Mostly bolt on stuff too...

Over size Sway-bars front & rear will do wonders, Summit, Jegs etc.
good quality "gas shocks" too, will make a big difference too
wider stickier/performance tires/radials & a lower ride height,
it's night & day differences to stock-ish, slide & push crap

thanks for your service

maybe post a thread in the general discussion forum
or the brakes suspension rims & tires forum

good luck & Happy Moparing
 
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SSBC from Clarence NY makes a really nice conversion for drum to disc. You may be able to get them from Pep Boys.
You can just buy the wheel kit and buy any disc brake master cylinder from RocAuto.
14" wheels are no problem you can even use the stock steel rims with a 1/4" spacer.
 
Welcome. Thank you for your service.
Dr. Diff has new affordable sure-grip units available.
 
Welcome from Canada, MBM makes a very economical kit that would suit your needs, It's based off the 73/76 A body system and excepts 14' wheels. With 600 lbs of torque, I don't think you'll be running 14s for very long anyway.:thumbsup:
 
Welcome firstly thank you for your service!
That is a sweet looking charger got anymore pictures
 
looks like im getting it back with engine and tranny in but not wired up. just my luck
 
First the obligatory "thank you for your service".
Next, I had family in Conway for a while.
Arkansas is God country.

Yea, what he said.
I think you will want to go with 15 inches for better tire availability if for no other reason.
F bodies came with 15X7 ones if you want to stay with steelies.
Here's the bucks down way for brakes.
Junk yards and parts for sale will work and save money.
For that disk brake upgrade.
A body (or F body spindles) will work.
I THINK these are being reproduced now.
Your control arms are good to go.
The calipers from an A body or F body will work.
If you have a anti-sway bar, you will need to swap the calipers from side to side to mount them on the rear.
Use St. Regis banjo fitting flex lines for the disk.
I used an A body proportioning valve on our 67 but have not tried it on the street yet.
There is always the adjustable valve option.
The master cylinder is a toss up.
But an autoparts store is reasonable.
Either a cast one or the later aluminum one from an 80 van or truck.
You should get the adapter which converts your 4 bolt on from the rear one to a two stud one if you go with the newer master cylinder.
Oh yea, welcome and nice car.
A pain in the arse to get some parts for. But nice car.
 
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Thank you sir for your service to our great country. Hello and welcome from Mpls.
 
At a minimum you've got to get rid of that single master cylinder, it's just not safe.
Great car, I have a green one as well. You never get tired of green.
 
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