'68 Charger grill plastic repair.
- Thread starter cumminscruiser
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JamieZ
Well-Known Member
I used a product called Plastifix to repair the plastic on mine (details here: http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?60200-JamieZ-s-68-Charger )
For those tabs, I actually bent small pieces of metal and formed them to fit in there. Then used a little glue to keep them from pulling out.
I've heard of people using acetone to melt ABS plastic for a repair as well
For those tabs, I actually bent small pieces of metal and formed them to fit in there. Then used a little glue to keep them from pulling out.
I've heard of people using acetone to melt ABS plastic for a repair as well
cdr
Well-Known Member
Car Nut
Well-Known Member
This is something I've seen on another forum.
"For most of the plastic on our grills its made of a type of ABS plastic, coincidental so are LEGOS!
Simply clean the parts to be glued back together very well after slightly roughing them up with some coarse sandpaper. If possible position it so that the part can be held in place with a clamp of some sort. Remember sometimes a simple rubberband will work wonders.
Take a Lego in the color of your choice, place it in GLASS container, and add some 100% PURE ACETONE. You will have to keep stirring it up every so often (like every 10 minutes) adding more acetone as it evaporates until the Lego is fully dissolved into gooey gel. If its too thin just wait for the acetone to evaporate out some until its like a gel like said earlier. Too think simply add a Lil more acetone and stir until satisfied with consistency. I use a Popsicle stick or whatever laying around to spread it out on both surfaces to be adhered together, put them to together and then I usually spread some out over the cracked area and beyond like a 1/2" or more in all directions to help strengthen it more. Allow to fully dry, usually overnight. You then can sand it smooth if you have any marks from applying it to make it look nicer. Also you lay piece of that Popsicle stick over the crack as a brace and them completely cover the stick with the melted Lego basically burying within the plastic to act a gusset.
It works great and once dried you would never know it was melted. I learned this trick from an old friend while restoring a vintage motorcycle and having a heck of a time finding a replace side cover for the battery. All the push in pegs to hold it on were busted. 2 years later and repeatedly taking it off and on it shows no sign of cracking again and feels just as strong if not stronger then the other side which was not broken and I didn't add anything for support. Just cleaned and smeared melted Lego over it.
Try it out sometime on some junk plastic to see for yourself. Also works great for the pesky ATV fender cracks and similar things.
Just a tip DO NOT TRY TO SPPEED UP DRYING WITH A HAIR DRYER OR HEAT GUN.
Acetone gives off deadly fumes when heated. I know a guy who almost died when he welded a part after cleaning it with acetone. After breathing the fumes he felt dizzy and before the night was over he was in the ICU with liver failure.
Use ALOT of ventilation when dealing with acetone."
A Charger repaired from Legos!
"For most of the plastic on our grills its made of a type of ABS plastic, coincidental so are LEGOS!
Simply clean the parts to be glued back together very well after slightly roughing them up with some coarse sandpaper. If possible position it so that the part can be held in place with a clamp of some sort. Remember sometimes a simple rubberband will work wonders.
Take a Lego in the color of your choice, place it in GLASS container, and add some 100% PURE ACETONE. You will have to keep stirring it up every so often (like every 10 minutes) adding more acetone as it evaporates until the Lego is fully dissolved into gooey gel. If its too thin just wait for the acetone to evaporate out some until its like a gel like said earlier. Too think simply add a Lil more acetone and stir until satisfied with consistency. I use a Popsicle stick or whatever laying around to spread it out on both surfaces to be adhered together, put them to together and then I usually spread some out over the cracked area and beyond like a 1/2" or more in all directions to help strengthen it more. Allow to fully dry, usually overnight. You then can sand it smooth if you have any marks from applying it to make it look nicer. Also you lay piece of that Popsicle stick over the crack as a brace and them completely cover the stick with the melted Lego basically burying within the plastic to act a gusset.
It works great and once dried you would never know it was melted. I learned this trick from an old friend while restoring a vintage motorcycle and having a heck of a time finding a replace side cover for the battery. All the push in pegs to hold it on were busted. 2 years later and repeatedly taking it off and on it shows no sign of cracking again and feels just as strong if not stronger then the other side which was not broken and I didn't add anything for support. Just cleaned and smeared melted Lego over it.
Try it out sometime on some junk plastic to see for yourself. Also works great for the pesky ATV fender cracks and similar things.
Just a tip DO NOT TRY TO SPPEED UP DRYING WITH A HAIR DRYER OR HEAT GUN.
Acetone gives off deadly fumes when heated. I know a guy who almost died when he welded a part after cleaning it with acetone. After breathing the fumes he felt dizzy and before the night was over he was in the ICU with liver failure.
Use ALOT of ventilation when dealing with acetone."
A Charger repaired from Legos!
cumminscruiser
Active Member
Thanks, I'll give this a try.
69_XS29L
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To reconstruct the fractured/missing grill mounts of my '69 I bought some sheet ABS on Amazon and went the PlastiFix route. I used a jewelers's saw/knife/Dremel for snug fit and to shape the bevel and some very fine fiberglass matting from a hobby store to reinforce it. This worked very well to weld/reinforce the fractures around the headlight buckets. I also built a mold and rebuilt the missing tip from the lower corner of the headlight bucket that hides under the end of the bumper. I would not hesitate to recommend PlastiFix.
I also used this 3M product: http://3mcollision.com/3m-plastic-repair-semi-rigid-04240.html
with the same ABS sheet. Available from Amazon or local parts house. It works very well. It sets up very fast and you can work it/finish it like plastic. I don't use the little mixing nozzle as it wastes product, just dispense from the tubes and mix like epoxy. I used both products with fiberglass mat to rebuild the fractured dash of my auction house '98 Dodge Ram. PlastiFix is a chemical weld, 3M is a chemical solder that binds most plastics like iron. PlastiFix is kind of self leveling, 3M is a little harder to use.
I've been taking pictures of this process. I should be home long enough this winter to finish it up. I'll put together something for folks that don't have unlimited funds for overpriced repros or some clowns "rebuilt" EBay shite. Good luck, Mike.
I also used this 3M product: http://3mcollision.com/3m-plastic-repair-semi-rigid-04240.html
with the same ABS sheet. Available from Amazon or local parts house. It works very well. It sets up very fast and you can work it/finish it like plastic. I don't use the little mixing nozzle as it wastes product, just dispense from the tubes and mix like epoxy. I used both products with fiberglass mat to rebuild the fractured dash of my auction house '98 Dodge Ram. PlastiFix is a chemical weld, 3M is a chemical solder that binds most plastics like iron. PlastiFix is kind of self leveling, 3M is a little harder to use.
I've been taking pictures of this process. I should be home long enough this winter to finish it up. I'll put together something for folks that don't have unlimited funds for overpriced repros or some clowns "rebuilt" EBay shite. Good luck, Mike.
Cop Magnet
Well-Known Member
I was just going to post a thread on how I restomodded my grill. Anyway, here is the answer to your specific issue:
Use a aluminum wire screen to offer structural support and strength. I used plastic epoxy putty. The mesh allows you to work with a much thinner piece of plastic putty:
Work the epoxy putty into the mesh.
Push the stuff in from underneath so that the structure will be underneath and the top can be finished smoothly. You can cut the mesh larger so it flanks down the sides inside as well.
Work putty into the missing chunk of grill support from the top now:
Fill the shape of the whole piece up while imbedding the mesh from underneath with another layer of epoxy. Don't make it too thick or your retainer clip won't fit. Here is the piece partially sanded:
Completely sanded:
Drill the hole out as per the original, and you are good to go.
Sorry about the weird pics. Some are screen caps of a video I made demonstrating this. I didn't really get a good picture after paint, but here is the area after installation. None of the work shows from the outside obviously. Another option I thought about was embedding a washer with the epoxy and mesh. The idea is to give the screw something to hold on to without pulling the whole thing apart.
Here's my grill when mostly finished:
Use a aluminum wire screen to offer structural support and strength. I used plastic epoxy putty. The mesh allows you to work with a much thinner piece of plastic putty:
Work the epoxy putty into the mesh.
Push the stuff in from underneath so that the structure will be underneath and the top can be finished smoothly. You can cut the mesh larger so it flanks down the sides inside as well.
Work putty into the missing chunk of grill support from the top now:
Fill the shape of the whole piece up while imbedding the mesh from underneath with another layer of epoxy. Don't make it too thick or your retainer clip won't fit. Here is the piece partially sanded:
Completely sanded:
Drill the hole out as per the original, and you are good to go.
Sorry about the weird pics. Some are screen caps of a video I made demonstrating this. I didn't really get a good picture after paint, but here is the area after installation. None of the work shows from the outside obviously. Another option I thought about was embedding a washer with the epoxy and mesh. The idea is to give the screw something to hold on to without pulling the whole thing apart.
Here's my grill when mostly finished:
jfreakofkorn
Well-Known Member
neat technique .... i ll have to remember that =0)
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As Azure stated, Plastex is amazing stuff. Strong and right for the job.
Another easy and very strong method is to use a combination of superglue (cyanoacrylate) and baking soda. This is great if you have a hole, as the baking soda is a good filler. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CjLptQxvQl8
Another easy and very strong method is to use a combination of superglue (cyanoacrylate) and baking soda. This is great if you have a hole, as the baking soda is a good filler. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CjLptQxvQl8
MykeNytemare
Well-Known Member
I was just going to post a thread on how I restomodded my grill. Anyway, here is the answer to your specific issue:
Use a aluminum wire screen to offer structural support and strength. I used plastic epoxy putty. The mesh allows you to work with a much thinner piece of plastic putty:
Work the epoxy putty into the mesh.
Push the stuff in from underneath so that the structure will be underneath and the top can be finished smoothly. You can cut the mesh larger so it flanks down the sides inside as well.
Work putty into the missing chunk of grill support from the top now:
Fill the shape of the whole piece up while imbedding the mesh from underneath with another layer of epoxy. Don't make it too thick or your retainer clip won't fit. Here is the piece partially sanded:
Completely sanded:
Drill the hole out as per the original, and you are good to go.
Sorry about the weird pics. Some are screen caps of a video I made demonstrating this. I didn't really get a good picture after paint, but here is the area after installation. None of the work shows from the outside obviously. Another option I thought about was embedding a washer with the epoxy and mesh. The idea is to give the screw something to hold on to without pulling the whole thing apart.
Here's my grill when mostly finished:
Now those aren't factory headlight assemblies, are they? ;-) very nice projector setup.
Cop Magnet
Well-Known Member
Thanks! Haven't seen that described before. Made it up as I went along.
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