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69 Charger resto

Daytona Jim

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
5:08 PM
Joined
Jun 26, 2015
Messages
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150
Location
Napa California
I'm restoring my 69 Charger and when I took the shell to be media blasted, I was told the shop would blast the car and then POWDERCOAT the whole car! I said "hold on I've been around the car hobby for 50 years and had never heard of such a thing". I told the shop owner he and my painter would have to talk about this. They talked it over and my painter said he liked what he was told and that the shop had been doing the powder coat as a sealer for a couple of years. I'll let you know how it goes.

hemi 1.jpg hemi 2.jpg hemi 3.jpg hemi 4.jpg
 
Maybe I'm out of touch in the painting but what is the advantage of this ? How well does the other brand of products adhere to this and is PPG or Dupont or whatever brand they paint with, will those companies stand by their product if a failure occurs ?
 
I have used powder primer. Works good, I do it to my bumpers I paint to match. everything sticks to it, Just don't sand through. Looks good
 
Can someone explain the whole process to me? I'm under the impression that
powder coating involves an oven with panel-warping temperatures! Thanks for
the info.
 
Can someone explain the whole process to me? I'm under the impression that
powder coating involves an oven with panel-warping temperatures! Thanks for
the info.
20 min. at 400 deg.
 
The hole car is heated evenly, things warp with uneven temps or hot spots.
 
The car was stripped to bare metal with a fine grain metal media. Next a thin coat of powder was applied and then the car went into the oven set at 400 degs for ten minuets. The reason for the powder coat was to stop rust from forming. I can take all the time I need to get the body work and paint done. Also, the powder coat MUST be sanded with a 330 -350 grit sandpaper to give the primer/paint a mechanical bond with the powder coat. The gloss must be removed from the powder coat wherever paint will be applied. No part numbers or VIN numbers were covered up by the powder coat.
 
Actually, the substrate METAL (all of it) needs to be at curing temp and then the timer gets set. Since in this case it's a primer basecoat, a slight under-cure is okay for a topcoat powder but I'd have concerns about using paint on top of it. Never tried it, but have seen undercured primer come through topcoat powders.
 
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