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69 coronet roof rail weatherstrip ?s

Zurfboy

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Hello everyone I am new to the forum I am currently working on the roof rail weatherstripping on my 69 Dodge Coronet and I have some questions for any of you who have done this. My replacement seals are Metro and my question is: Does the window go on the outside of the seal or is it supposed to go in the split in the middle. I have attached two pictures one with the quarter window going inside the seal and one with it going outside so you know what I'm talking about. The reason I'm asking is because I can't make the window go into the split in the seal unless I am holding the seal on the outside of the window as it goes up. It seems like you should be able to roll the window up and by itself it would go into the split if that's how it was supposed to work. I looked at my friends 68 charger and the seals are a little different so the window goes up in the slot really easily. Have any of you had this problem? Should I buy a different brand of seals that are shaped more like the originals? Any information you guys have out there would be greatly appreciated thanks.

IMG_0439.JPG IMG_0440.JPG
 
Thank you so much beep beep and themechanic for your responses they are very helpful and I really appreciate it
 
I too used the Metro seals and just got them as close as possible. Looking at survivors and those that reused old seals the Metro seals are no where close to being shaped like the originals. I must have messed with my quarter windows for days trying to line them up right. Probably the most frustrating part of my build.

I think I remember Dixie Restorations telling me their seals were closer to original but I'm not sure what manufacturer they used. Anybody confirm?
 
Mine are the ones that Dixie and other vendors carry....The right ones also have "notches" in the rubber to set the seal correctly in the trim that has tabs....

The glass is supposed to meet at the groove and touch the inside lip so it creates a top and inside seal....If you need a close up pic I can take one later...
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I used Metro on a 67.
Looks the same as yours.
No way it will work going in the channel.
And the groove is to small anyway.
Maybe the idea is to let it compress the rubber?
I figured the outer rubber was just supposed to compress against the inner rubber.
Seems to be patterned more like a later A body Duster seal that fits the glass the same..
 
I used Metro on a 67.
Looks the same as yours.
No way it will work going in the channel.
And the groove is to small anyway.
Maybe the idea is to let it compress the rubber?
I figured the outer rubber was just supposed to compress against the inner rubber.
Seems to be patterned more like a later A body Duster seal that fits the glass the same..
Depends on if they were installed correctly or not...the glass rests in the groove but not in the slit....a picture is worth a 1k words and I will.post a close up tonight...

It all falls on installing everything properly or half azzed....I see more done half azzed than right....but that's why glass etc is such a pain to deal with....people slap it together and don't have the patience...nor the know how...

Mine was soft seal...not metro.....I checked my invoices........
 
Moparnation74. I like the look of yours it is definitely different than the metro. I will check out Dixie and soft seal. I have a set from OER through summit on the way so maybe it will be different as well.

Onlyone and eagleone, I was thinking the same thing about with the metro you can't get it in the groove, the outer edge comes down as low as the inner edge so it doesn't have a place to seat the window like moparnation74's photos show.

That quarter window adjustment is definitely frustrating especially since the new seals and Fuzzies really are tight around the glass and the adjustment changes after you put the inside cover back on. I will keep after it. Thanks again for all you guys input
 
Moparnation74. I like the look of yours it is definitely different than the metro. I will check out Dixie and soft seal. I have a set from OER through summit on the way so maybe it will be different as well.

Onlyone and eagleone, I was thinking the same thing about with the metro you can't get it in the groove, the outer edge comes down as low as the inner edge so it doesn't have a place to seat the window like moparnation74's photos show.

That quarter window adjustment is definitely frustrating especially since the new seals and Fuzzies really are tight around the glass and the adjustment changes after you put the inside cover back on. I will keep after it. Thanks again for all you guys input
I would wait to see what you get from summit. If you need any help with the 1/4 glass adjustment...pm me your number and I can put you on the right path....

I would order from soft seal direct if the summit one's do not work...

Justin
 
Depends on if they were installed correctly or not...the glass rests in the groove but not in the slit....a picture is worth a 1k words and I will.post a close up tonight...

It all falls on installing everything properly or half azzed....I see more done half azzed than right....but that's why glass etc is such a pain to deal with....people slap it together and don't have the patience...nor the know how...

Mine was soft seal...not metro.....I checked my invoices........

This?
"Soft Seal"?
I'm not seeing an application for 69 Plymouth of that type?
http://www.soffseal.com/store/Main.aspx?html=home
And definitly not one for a 67 Charger.
However mine were "Purple." (Below)
And I think that is what the OP and I are talking about.
Slit. No groove in them.
Not that you can use anyway.

No worries, mine were installed correctly.
Not half azzed.
You saw the thread.
It's a sticky in the 67 Charger if he needs help with the quarters.
But if he finds what ever you used maybe the adjustment won't be necessary.

RR4002__74236.1490813070.jpg
 
Here is how the glass is supposed to fit in the groove....Clearly shows the glass in the "Groove" not poorly slapped together...It takes a fair amount of adjustments between the glass and the roof rail trim but take your time with it and you can get it to fit correctly...

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You are right.
Pictures are a big help.
I see a difference in what we are talking about.
It is not what I would say is "in" a groove or channel.
"Split".
It is sort of resting "on" the split.
Yep. That's the way he needs to make it.
The Metro should be good then.
 
This?
"Soft Seal"?
I'm not seeing an application for 69 Plymouth of that type?
http://www.soffseal.com/store/Main.aspx?html=home
And definitly not one for a 67 Charger.
However mine were "Purple." (Below)
And I think that is what the OP and I are talking about.
Slit. No groove in them.
Not that you can use anyway.

No worries, mine were installed correctly.
Not half azzed.
You saw the thread.
It's a sticky in the 67 Charger if he needs help with the quarters.
But if he finds what ever you used maybe the adjustment won't be necessary.

View attachment 544856
I do not have time to search through all of their choices per model. Hope you didn't waste a lot of time looking for it...

A simple phone call can order exactly what the OP needs but for a quick check. Do you notice whats listed in the link?
http://www.soffseal.com/store/main.aspx?p=itemdetail&item=KITCH239
They do sell them separate as well...

Again, I referred to window terms in relation to the "groove" the inside edge where the 2 rubber halves that are split meet....Not the inside of the split.....

SO that being said does yours fit the same as mine? Can you supply a pic?
 
If I have time when I get home this weekend.
 
The 67 Charger is a whole 'nother animal.
It has it's own problems with the Metro seal.
(And I really can't say about a Metro fit on his car)
Yea, the glass lines up on mine with the front and rear slit/groove/channel....but.
There are some issues.
This alerts me that I'll need to update the sticky for the seal.
I'm thinking that your pictures and source for a 69 B is much more help to the OP's question than posting pictures of a first gen Charger here.
No leaks and the glass looks right on the car.
That a big win as far as I'm concerned.
 
Getting the glass to seal properly as has been discussed is a major job for even the experienced restoration shop. On the very same car, you can spend 2 hours and have everything fitting very nicely. Move to the other side and do everything the same way and spend six hours and it still does not fit well.
First off, I strongly suggest trying to find good used door and roof rail seals. We have been involved in manufacturing / selling weatherstripping for 28 years now and have seen and heard most of the horror stories. Depending upon the year model and body style makes a huge difference in which brand to purchase. If your doing a 66 to 67 B-Body, the only roof rail seal that will seal remotely is the Steele Rubber piece. For the 68 to 70 B-Bodies, Soft Seal and Metro are the two most widely used pieces. I am hearing all kinds of issues with people using the OER brand of seals. The thing about any seal is that rubber is very inconsistent from production run to run. Even with current technology, cooling time, pressure variations and mix variations will make a difference in durometer readings and thus one set from vendor X works very well and on the next order, your not able to close the doors without slamming them.
As Justin pointed out in his pictures, make sure that the roof rail is seated properly into the stainless channel. Cocked the least bit and the glass does not fit into the relief. The factory seals have a pronounced rib to aid in installing them. Metro has a tendency to have a bulb size that is slightly oversized holding the glass off. Soft Seal on the other hand is more profile correct, but they have issues maintaining the durometer value which impacts the ability of the glass to seat itself into the relief.
I strongly suggest the service manual to be read and scrutinized when starting to install the glass on any car. There are much more adjustments that most people are not willing to play with to get them to fit right. The best thing I have learned when things are fighting you, take a break from the procedure and come back the next day with an open mind. Take a big swing with the adjustment and see where it takes you and start to dial it in from the two extremes.
 
Getting the glass to seal properly as has been discussed is a major job for even the experienced restoration shop. On the very same car, you can spend 2 hours and have everything fitting very nicely. Move to the other side and do everything the same way and spend six hours and it still does not fit well.
First off, I strongly suggest trying to find good used door and roof rail seals. We have been involved in manufacturing / selling weatherstripping for 28 years now and have seen and heard most of the horror stories. Depending upon the year model and body style makes a huge difference in which brand to purchase. If your doing a 66 to 67 B-Body, the only roof rail seal that will seal remotely is the Steele Rubber piece. For the 68 to 70 B-Bodies, Soft Seal and Metro are the two most widely used pieces. I am hearing all kinds of issues with people using the OER brand of seals. The thing about any seal is that rubber is very inconsistent from production run to run. Even with current technology, cooling time, pressure variations and mix variations will make a difference in durometer readings and thus one set from vendor X works very well and on the next order, your not able to close the doors without slamming them.
As Justin pointed out in his pictures, make sure that the roof rail is seated properly into the stainless channel. Cocked the least bit and the glass does not fit into the relief. The factory seals have a pronounced rib to aid in installing them. Metro has a tendency to have a bulb size that is slightly oversized holding the glass off. Soft Seal on the other hand is more profile correct, but they have issues maintaining the durometer value which impacts the ability of the glass to seat itself into the relief.
I strongly suggest the service manual to be read and scrutinized when starting to install the glass on any car. There are much more adjustments that most people are not willing to play with to get them to fit right. The best thing I have learned when things are fighting you, take a break from the procedure and come back the next day with an open mind. Take a big swing with the adjustment and see where it takes you and start to dial it in from the two extremes.
Richard

This is 100% correct as I tried to elude to earlier. Anyone can slap parts together in relation to door and quarter glass but to have them function and fit properly is a whole different animal. Every restoration I have done this is the number one area I procrastinate for obvious reasons.

On my X the passenger side was a beast and required many hours adjusting and readjusting etc to get right....Moved to the passenger side and spent half the time...Your previous statement is so very true in regards to that....

The service manual is always the gold standard and if anyone reading or the OP has a question or needs help.....Just PM me and I will do my best to offer what I can....

Justin
 
The 67 Charger is a whole 'nother animal.
It has it's own problems with the Metro seal.
(And I really can't say about a Metro fit on his car)
Yea, the glass lines up on mine with the front and rear slit/groove/channel....but.
There are some issues.
This alerts me that I'll need to update the sticky for the seal.
I'm thinking that your pictures and source for a 69 B is much more help to the OP's question than posting pictures of a first gen Charger here.
No leaks and the glass looks right on the car.
That a big win as far as I'm concerned.
:thumbsup: LMFAO
 
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