'70 383 oil pressure + pan question

[wyrmrider]

might as well go to 0-30 or 0-40 if larger clearances
0w 20 with late tighter specs and low tension rings
interested in your results

 

[BSB67]

View attachment 850772

This is what my oil pressure gauge read on the freeway at 2300 RPM. It pretty much jumps to 80 any time I'm on the gas. Sometimes it goes above 80. Is this normal? Idle is about 20PSI. I know the motor has a more aggressive cam but I think that's about it.

Also what do you guys recommend for an oil pan with a stock center link? I've put my oil pan on and off too many times chasing leaks that it's been obviously warped and now it's leaking more than I like. Going to be using the blue reusable gasket.

I would argue that 20 at idle and 80 at 2300 rpm is not "normal". But does not necessarily mean that there is a problem either.

Like already said verify your gauge with a quality mechanical gauge.

Is your idle rpm too low?

You can use lighter oil, but it will lowers both numbers. Changing/modifying the relief spring will only lower the high number.

 

[moparedtn]

How about a windage tray with a quality reusable gasket that doesn't leak.....

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...ozwDhrSCXHFp7zLKmu7-oyxCBqNnEn-caAvJYEALw_wcB

That's where I'm headed next if my current sandwich winds up leaky....

 

[RJRENTON]

The pressure difference is because at low RPM the pump doesn't create enough volume to overcome internal oil leakage past the bearings... The engine likely has full groove main bearings & fairly loose clearances.. Pretty typical on an engine that's really ready to see some serious RPM's... Tight bearings are great for a lot of engines but not a true performance engine... Tight bearing in a performance engine winds up spinning a a bearing...

I'd honestly be more concerned about your modified Hemi...

For my application, RS23V0A********, with a slightly modified 440, I use Clevite tri metal full groove mains at 0.002-0.0025 clearance and Clevite tri metal rod bearings at the same clearance. I use a dial micrometer, outside calipers and snap gauges to measure the bearing clearances. While Plastigauge is OK, I just like the better accuracy real measuring tools afford.
I use a high VOLUME pump with 10W-30 Mobil One. Cold oil pressure is 75-80 psi @ 1200 RPM and 80 psi at 2500 RPM. HOT (185°F) oil pressure is 55-60 psi @ 1200 RPM and 75 psi @ 3000 RPM. I also run the main bearing cap bolts (ARP) at 15 #/ft torque higher than FSM specs to guard against turning a bearing. Is this too much pressure at my operating speeds?? I guess it depends on one's point of view or opinion. The crank and rod bearings actually "float" on a tapered hydrodynamic wedge of oil during operation that keeps the bearings and crankshaft apart. This is what works for me. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON

 

[wyrmrider]

sounds ok to me
I'd switch to 0w-30 mobil 1 in the winter in Chicago- well anywhere most wear is at start up)
if you run hard the new Mobile 1 ESP 0W-40 and 0W-30 (and 0W-20) are as good as it gets
ESP 0W-40 is DEXOS II created for the new Corvette and the 0W-20 certified for both VW 508 (diesel) and 508 (latest gas)
BTW Dexos II is NOT the same As Dexos I version 2
did you check the mains for round or pull in at the parting line with the extra 15 lbs
more important what lube did you use if not motor oil
I'd say the crank floats on the dynamic wedge but I guess they both do

 

[RJRENTON]

sounds ok to me
I'd switch to 0w-30 mobil 1 in the winter in Chicago- well anywhere most wear is at start up)
if you run hard the new Mobile 1 ESP 0W-40 and 0W-30 (and 0W-20) are as good as it gets
ESP 0W-40 is DEXOS II created for the new Corvette and the 0W-20 certified for both VW 508 (diesel) and 508 (latest gas)
BTW Dexos II is NOT the same As Dexos I version 2
did you check the mains for round or pull in at the parting line with the extra 15 lbs
more important what lube did you use if not motor oil
I'd say the crank floats on the dynamic wedge but I guess they both do

FYI...Yes....the extra torque on the main cap bolts do not cause the journal to become elliptical. I always measure three points on the journal...near the parting line on both sides plus at the center (without the crank installed). As far as the rod's big end, I use FSM values, but use ARP hardware. The concern is with the rod, not the down stroke but on the up stroke, where the rod cap can deform slightly at high RPM, due to rod stretch, possibly allowing the insert to spin. At the last oil change, I used Mobil One Dexos One but I also add a pint of ZDDP to help protect the cam and lifters (Crane equivalent to Mopar's 292° 0.509" lift with Crane's 1.6 ratio roller rocker arms). Oil's hydrodynamic wedge starts to form as soon as rotation starts and oil pressure builds on BOTH rotating components.
BOB RENTON

 

[wyrmrider]

from all I hear additives like zddp make SN oils less EP
perhaps they need a calcium based ep additive
I usually recommend oils with the EP blended in by the blender
so
let me know what you find out

 

[RJRENTON]

from all I hear additives like zddp make SN oils less EP
perhaps they need a calcium based ep additive
I usually recommend oils with the EP blended in by the blender
so
let me know what you find out

Which additives ("like" ZDDP) make oils less extreme pressure are you referring to? "...from all I hear...." please credit your source of information, I would like to check it out. You also suggest a calcium based extreme pressure additive. Which one....what is its chemistry and how does this additive accomplish the function? Which lubricants (oils) are you recommending (brand names and viscosity index)??....I may consider changing.
BOB RENTON

 

[wyrmrider]

Hi Bob
big discussion in Bob is the oil guy several years ago.
I'm in WA and will not be back to LA and notes till mid Nov.
Evidently some of the newer oils do not use the same Phos/Zn EP but use a Calcium based formula
Write ups on VW 208 cover it
more later

 

[RJRENTON]

Hi Bob
big discussion in Bob is the oil guy several years ago.
I'm in WA and will not be back to LA and notes till mid Nov.
Evidently some of the newer oils do not use the same Phos/Zn EP but use a Calcium based formula
Write ups on VW 208 cover it
more later

Looking at VW208 specs, which seem to refer to various makers of semi and full synthetic oils aimed at the European car market relating in part to diesel engines, does not really address the issue. Looking at calcium based lubricant additives seems to be based on grease additives where calcium additives have replaced lithium additives for some applications..... some of the lubricant suppliers also offer specialized aircraft engine oil applications approved by the FAA and engine builders for certain applications.....I could not find any reference/corrilation to ZDDP vs Calcium based EP additives.
To this end, and for my application, as noted previously, I'll continue to use Mobil One 10W-30 and ZDDP additive, as I have used for years, as this is what works for me. I'm sure others will have their own opinions for their applications and the on going discussions re high volume vs high pressure oil pumps and pressures and which is better (?) and what oil I use is better than what oil you use, metaphorically speaking. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON

 

[moparedtn]

Hey Bob,
What do you think of Valvoline VR1?
https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publ...2d889bd3/a61538b4-0cbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1

 

[RJRENTON]

Hey Bob,
What do you think of Valvoline VR1?
https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publ...2d889bd3/a61538b4-0cbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1

Years ago, when I was running a mofified LA 318, with many 340 parts in my Belevedre II, I used Valvoline 30 weight Racing Oil, because it offered ashless detergent dispercent additives. It was cost effective and available just about any where....this is when oil came in metal cans (ancient history) and was an excellent product. To be honest, I've not looked at the present Valvoline offerings....perhaps I should but I'm perfectly satisfied with Mobil One plus the RS23V0A***** GTX is just a summertime cruise car only getting 500+ miles/year.
BOB RENTON

 

[wyrmrider]

you probably do this bob but for future readers I mix the additive with the oil then pour it in not just dump the additive in the fill hole
I have several cases of GM EOS, it has always worked well for me
I do not remember if the writeup on the development of 508 was from Shell or Mobil or ??? I'm trying it a suburu that takes 0W-20

 

[Moparnocar]

There is actually an adjustable spring available, I personally would try that before switching to 5w30

 

[RJRENTON]

you probably do this bob but for future readers I mix the additive with the oil then pour it in not just dump the additive in the fill hole
I have several cases of GM EOS, it has always worked well for me
I do not remember if the writeup on the development of 508 was from Shell or Mobil or ??? I'm trying it a suburu that takes 0W-20

What's the diffrrence between "dumping the additive in the fill hole" and blending it (the additive) with oil before adding it to the engine? By the time the additive gets to the crankcase and the spinning crankshaft it will have been blended (literally homogenized) to a greater extent. What benefit do you hope to achieve by mixing the additive with the oil before adding it to the engine? Seems like an adfitional step and performs no real purpose. Just my opinion of course. GM EOS is a great product and all the manufacturer's have something similar.....but will a GM product added to a Mopar engine cause harm?......(a rhetorical comment).....
BOB RENTON

 

[lochenjons]

Got the adjustable oil pressure regulator from 440 source, along with a 6-pack 6-quart reproduction oil pan and new pickup. Ordered the nylon windage tray/gasket from summit racing and some fresh 10w30 oil too. Hopefully this weekend I can throw those on there and see if that helps anything. Thanks for all the advice.