904 Transmission leak

[Texas charger 73]

So i went to move the other day and my car was acting like it was slipping.. i checked fluid. was about a quart low.. filled it up and ran fine.. well while it was idling it was dripping tranny fluid... my pan and bellhousing has always been wet, but i thought it was rear oil pan leaking... i pulled transmission over the holiday,, the front pump seal is leaking, but it also looks like the convertor wasn't completely seated so it got the stator support shaft a little behind the splines.. i ordered a new seal, bushing and gasket, but now im wondering if i need to go ahead an check the clutches as well for burnt.. im not sure if i should replace just the seal and possibly the bushing or save up for a good kit with Red clutches and just go through and rebuild it all... also my convertor is a 2600 stall.. what would be the chances that's its fine to run because a new stall convertor isn't cheap.. 904 behind 320 hp 360.. 1973 Charger

 

[R413]

You can look at the bushing with the seal out. how does the converter snout look? Smooth or worn with grooves? Do you know any history on this trans?

You don’t need “good red clutches” with that small of an engine.

 

[Texas charger 73]

You can look at the bushing with the seal out. how does the converter snout look? Smooth or worn with grooves? Do you know any history on this trans?

You don’t need “good red clutches” with that small of an engine.

transmission was rebuilt up north about 4 yrs ago.. i ran it behind a mild 318 for a little and then behind this 360.. transmission might have 1500 miles on rebuild... you talking about the inside of the snout there it goes over the splines? outside of snout is smooth

 

[493 Mike]

The pump seal looks dry in your photos? If the bushing looks good and the converter hub is smooth a seal may fix your leak. Lube the seal and hub with trans fluid at assembly time.
Mike

 

[R413]

transmission was rebuilt up north about 4 yrs ago.. i ran it behind a mild 318 for a little and then behind this 360.. transmission might have 1500 miles on rebuild... you talking about the inside of the snout there it goes over the splines? outside of snout is smooth

The outside of,the snout, the sealing surface and the bushing rides there also. very important.

Does this have kickdown linkage adjust properly, or a manual valve body?

 

[Texas charger 73]

i run reverse manual

 

[dvw]

Nothing rides on that portion of the reaction shaft. what bushing are you talking about?

The outside of,the snout, the sealing surface and the bushing rides there also. very important.

Does this have kickdown linkage adjust properly, or a manual valve body?

Heres a link Technical Tip #6.
As far as using red frictions. I rebuilt two Pro Trans this fall. (04 guts with billet pieces in a 727 case. Directly from Dave Smith himself. Just about any quality friction will work. He uses Borg warner green, Raybestoes tans.
Doug

 

[Texas charger 73]

got it apart.. waiting on a new rear double wrap band, gaskets and seals...then back together for now until i can afford a reverse manual with low band apply, billet rear servo and billet drum. Dont have the money for a bolt in sprag.. i currently run a rv manual with no low band apply and just recently found out the issue with the locked sprag in first gear.. trying to make it stronger and less likely to explode if i want to do a burnout or if I'm getting on it in low and someone pulls out in front of me.. i know shift to second then lift, but human instinct is to just let off the gas and i have read and heard in low that can cause a catastrophic failure. inside of transmission is clean and front band is good.. you can still read part numbers on most of the clutches.. no hot spots or anything either.