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Your thoughts on this oil leak

Car #4

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I replaced, unsuccessfully, the rear main seal. It’s a 440 engine. The truck has sat for six weeks but I continue to have oil collect in the bottom of the bell housing. So a couple questions.
For it to collect there it would have to be getting past the rear main seal and draining back the shaft wouldn’t it?
But is the oil in the pan deep enough for that? Is at least part of that seal sitting in oil at all times? I didn’t think the oil would be that deep in the engine.
 
No, the oil shouldn't be above the pan rail.... In fact it should be over an inch below the rail...
Are you sure it's motor oil? Manual trans? Or auto?
 
Cam plug could be leaking...
As could the galley plugs... But if it hasn't been run in weeks how is the oil getting out of the pan an up high enough in the engine to leak? Hence the reason I asked if he's sure it's motor oil.... Cause transmissions can leak a lot when the engine hasn't been run....
 
No, the oil shouldn't be above the pan rail.... In fact it should be over an inch below the rail...
Are you sure it's motor oil? Manual trans? Or auto?
@1 Wild R/T Thank you. It's not transmission fluid, it's not red, it looks exactly like engine oil. I'll swipe my finger on the bottom of the bell housing and post a picture. It's an automatic transmission.
I've checked the valve covers several times, ie. after each drive, until I was certain they were not leaking. I was sure after the first check, the rest were just double and triple checking. I can't see the cam plug, even with a scope, but as Wild said, how could it be leaking with the truck not running for weeks? This thing is driving me nuts. How else could the oil be getting into the bell housing except by draining back the tail shaft.
 
I wiped the bell housing this morning, it’s been 5-7 days.

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One thing I find about these discussions is that it focuses me on what’s going on and I’ll pause and just look trying to figure out what I’m missing. This is on a Power Wagon with a 727. The dipstick is reading about 5/8” above full. Also the engine is tilted slightly to the back so maybe between those two things the seal is partially sitting in oil. The shop floor is slightly sloped which might add a bit to the position of bubble in the level.

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If it looks like oil, feels like oil, smells like oil and tastes like oil.
Then it's probably oil.
(Just don't step in it)
 
How long are the two pan bolts at the rear of the pan that thread into the rear seal seal retainer.. They are supposed to be shorter than the rest of the pan bolts and if they are to o long they will crack out the top of the seal retainer bolt bosses.... If there is oil on those two bolt heads that's a possible cause.... Pull the bolts, clean them and the bolt holes... Reassemble with sealer on the bolt threads...
 
How long are the two pan bolts at the rear of the pan that thread into the rear seal seal retainer.. They are supposed to be shorter than the rest of the pan bolts and if they are to o long they will crack out the top of the seal retainer bolt bosses.... If there is oil on those two bolt heads that's a possible cause.... Pull the bolts, clean them and the bolt holes... Reassemble with sealer on the bolt threads...
I've replaced this seal once and I'm using a Mancini retainer. I had a couple guys helping me and feel they rushed it, likely why it's leaking. The original retainer was broke out on one bolt hole. Those two bolt heads now are dry so I think we're ok there.
 
I've heard varying opinions of the aftermarket seal retainers... When the first came out I wanted one but my engine was assembled & running with no leakage....

But "new and improved!!!"

Then I started hearing from people that had bought the new retainers... And I heard more bad than good...I've built quite a few engines since then and haven't bought one... I know the tricks to sealing the OE retainer... Don't need to learn how to seal the new and improved retainer...
 
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