Bead blasting 440 valve covers good idea or bad?

[Billy Lo]

Having a BITCH of a time getting my valve cover's old shitty point removed. A friend suggested chemical stripping and another suggested bead blasting. What do you guys think? I found a local powder coat place that also does bead stripping no luck on the chem stripping yet. THanks!

 

[Beekeeper]

Bead blasting would be the best option

 

[super-bee_ski]

I bead blast them often OR 60 grit sand blast
Send them to Leanna
Cuda Chick, forum name
She owns PHOENIX SPECIALTY COATINGS
She performs some truly fantastic finishes!

 

[62MAX]

Bead blasting is fine if you get "ALL" the residue out from under the baffles.

 

[super-bee_ski]

Great point 62MAX
I thoroughly rinse, wash after blasting

 

[Photon440]

Bead blasting is fine if you get "ALL" the residue out from under the baffles.

THAT! Getting all of the sand out is important. A guy at work ran his SBC covers through the sand blaster at work, then went through two worn out oil pumps from sand getting into the oil.

 

[mmissile]

If you powder-coat for original looking.....make sure to do all the exterior engine parts. Colors vary.

 

[CudaChick1968]

Thanks for the mention super bee ski!!!!
If it's paint, it should come off fairly easily with any abrasive media at 75-90 psi. If it doesn't, it may be an old -- and tough -- zinc epoxy.
I have chemical stripper if it comes to that. :-D You can buy some ("paint and powder strip"); it's $150 for a 5 gallon bucket.

 

[Lionized]

Ask your local engine builder about hot tanking.

 

[PRND21]

Bead blasting is fine if you get "ALL" the residue out from under the baffles.

X2 Bead blasting does great. I use a can of choke cleaner to clean under the baffle. Or as Lionized says, hot tank.

 

[62 Dart Convertible]

You haven't mentioned how you have tried to remove the original paint.
If all you are doing is a pair of rocker covers, a 250mL or 500mL can of Methylene Chloride (also called Dichloromethane) based paint stripper should get it done quickly for under $10.

 

[gkent]

Chemical stripping can't be beat for what you're doing - it will get EVERYTHING - paint, oil, rust, etc.. Hot tank will not remove rust. Bead blasting is the best alternative but you need to remove all oil and grease first.

 

[SlinktRR]

I would sandblast. Blastmaster in Rockaway NJ is a good shop. He does a perfect job on old parts; mostly does industrial fabrication for city of NY but he got started blasting parts for friends in the hobby and still does it on the side. Ask for Eric.

 

[Mike67]

Go to any paint house or auto supply and purchase aircraft stripper, make sure to wear ppe! Then hose off.

 

[gkent]

Sandblast !!! Are you kidding me? You'll need a can of bondo to get a smooth finish again!!

 

[SlinktRR]

there is all different kinds of blast media from beads to walnut shells

 

[Lionized]

there is all different kinds of blast media from beads to walnut shells

I've found the best results using Garnet. Very fine texture left on the metal and a light scuff with a medium Scotch Brite was all that was needed before priming...after thoroughly cleaning the surface, of course.
Ensuring all of the blast material is eliminated before priming/painting will take some time.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

I bead blast them often OR 60 grit sand blast
Send them to Leanna
Cuda Chick, forum name
She owns PHOENIX SPECIALTY COATINGS
She performs some truly fantastic finishes!

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That's the easiest and best results!!

 

[747mopar]

Bead blasting is fine if you get "ALL" the residue out from under the baffles.

I recently had the same dilemma on a set of valve covers. I needed to blast a set that had baffles and know there is almost no way to ensure you get all of the media back out of the crevices so I drilled the spot welds and blasted them then welded the baffles back in. When it comes to motor parts if you can't be sure that all of the media will be removed don't do it.

 

[747mopar]

Paint stripper and a power washer works great too just be careful and wear goggles.