Building a MILD 383 stroker?

[HP2]

Found out yesterday that the 383 in my Super Bee was matching so now I have to rethink, I have a 440 for it ready to go in.

I think it is better to keep the 383 but it's not in the best condition. I haven't opened it since I pulled it last night but I guess it will need a total rebuild. Instead of doing all the work with crank, have the rods redone and buy new pistons I'm considering building a very mild stroker.
I have a fresh pair of 906's so what I pretty much need is a stroker kit, a cam kit, bearings and gaskets. I don't have an original intake either but I need something low so I can keep the original Air Grabber.
I want to keep the original converter and 3.23
I have a new mandrel bent 2.5" exhaust
Power steering and manual brakes, no AC

Let me know your opinions on a combo with stroker kit, cam and intake folks!
Do I have to say I'm on a budget...

 

[dieseldazzle]

Factory 67 383 4 barrel car original engine so did the following:

438 source kit with Arp2000 rod bolt upgrade lol

516 heads with big exhaust valve.
272 mopar cam.

2.94 one leg this thing cruises and will melt the one tire anywhere anytime lol.

Hidden Petronix conversion as well.

 

[luvthyapril]

I am also building a stroker but using a 440 Crank and custom pistons should end up being a 426 when done. I have a 383 intake for sale if needed.

 

[66Satellite47]

A 440 crank in the low deck is no big deal these days. 906 heads with a mild pocket port job will give good power. Shot peen the rods & use good rod bolts (ARP or ?). A more modern intake is better. Or an old TM6 that you really should weld up the dimples in the intake ports & grind out the lumps in the inside of the runners. The TM6 with a good aftermarket converter will give really good performance & response.

 

[69a100]

Isn't a "383 stroker" A GM thing? Always have heard it to be!
A Mopar is a stroked 383 or 440 or ?????.

 

[Cranky]

If you have a 440 ready to go in, why not use it instead of building a stroker 383? It's pretty easy to produce 1 hp per cu. in......better yet if you have access to a 400 block, machine the 440 crank and end up with a 451 or offset grind the 440 crank and produce around 470 cubes in either block. If you use the 440 block, you don't have to machine the mains and counter weights.

 

[HP2]

Isn't a "383 stroker" A GM thing? Always have heard it to be!
A Mopar is a stroked 383 or 440 or ?????.

Sorry my bad language. Of course it should be 'Building a MILD stroker based on a Chrysler 383" B block'
And if we are going to be picky, a 383 stroker could be built on many engines, not only Chebby 350's.
Last, a Mopar is a brand IIRC.

 

[HP2]

A 440 crank in the low deck is no big deal these days. 906 heads with a mild pocket port job will give good power. Shot peen the rods & use good rod bolts (ARP or ?). A more modern intake is better. Or an old TM6 that you really should weld up the dimples in the intake ports & grind out the lumps in the inside of the runners. The TM6 with a good aftermarket converter will give really good performance & response.

It's not a screamer I'm looking to build. As I said I want to keep the original low stall converter and go with the original 3.23's. It needs to perform from just over idle.
I've been scanning the net now and it seems like 440 Source has the best pricing, can get a fully balanced 496" stroker kit for $2,250.
A low dual plane to keep the Air Grabber setup and I cam grind that works in the combo.
It would be interesting to see if someone build something like it.

 

[HP2]

If you have a 440 ready to go in, why not use it instead of building a stroker 383? It's pretty easy to produce 1 hp per cu. in......better yet if you have access to a 400 block, machine the 440 crank and end up with a 451 or offset grind the 440 crank and produce around 470 cubes in either block. If you use the 440 block, you don't have to machine the mains and counter weights.

I have use for the 440 if I want, but I haven't decided what route go go yet...
That 440 as good as it is, but how I built it I need a higher stall converter and a steeper gear.
Building a matching numbers engine with tons of torque down low just tickles my mind...

 

[Cranky]

With the longer stroke 440, the 3.23's would be fine....even with a mild factory type high stall.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

Build the 496, send your iron heads out for porting, modern has a cnc program for the 906's. Laroy engines on here also does quite a bit with iron heads. That'll keep the stock look. Keep the compression reasonable so you don't need a long duration cam. You'll have a serious stump puller of an engine. You could also do stealths and paint them orange, most guys won't know the difference.

I run a source kit in a 400 block. My combo is a bit wilder though. Nice parts for the price. That 4.250 stroke crank about falls in.

 

[69a100]

Sorry my bad language. Of course it should be 'Building a MILD stroker based on a Chrysler 383" B block'
And if we are going to be picky, a 383 stroker could be built on many engines, not only Chebby 350's.
Last, a Mopar is a brand IIRC.

Not being picky, some people here are even **** about callin a sure grip a posi or something else, it's a Mopar world here..

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

Not being picky, some people here are even **** about callin a sure grip a posi or something else, it's a Mopar world here..

Good news is that 383 dodge will run real good once you put some chevy rods in it..

 

[HP2]

I just uploaded an avatar on my street/strip Charger. Runs 7.15 on pump gas with a 440 with 906's.
I built it on a very low budget in my garage with all used parts.

The Super Bee is a different story. It will just be a nice quiet cruiser with the power band very low but lots of torque to smoke 'em whenever my foot gets heavy.

I do have a plan but it's always interesting to get input from you experienced guys out there.
496 cubes, unported 906's, a low dual plane and what cam?
Keep in mind low rpm's to match low stall, 3.23 and heavy car.

 

[66Satellite47]

A word of advice, the 906 heads REALLY like a basic pocket porting. Lots of power there with little effort or cost.

 

[moper]

If it were me, if you're spending on the 496, buy the Stealths with the CNC port job and upgraded springs and misc. A customer's 496 is a monster, runs pump fuel, ran factory HP manifolds, and with stock repro exhaust made 450hp to the tires. It won it's Stock Appearing class at Carlisle a few years ago. Run a decent solid flat tappet cam, heads that will move the air, and they'll make big numbers.

 

[Garys1969RR]

Ditto on the 496. That's a 383 block with a 4.25 stroke. I'm running one in a 68 Valiant. Low 11s at 5600 feet, 119 MPH in the 1/4 mile. Stealth heads, M-1 intake. If you are using a 383 block, you may as well go with the full 4.25 inch stroke. That 496 is a powerful motor! This one dynoed at over 600 horsepower, at altitude. Sea level would be much more.

 

[not so famous bob]

Ditto on the 496. That's a 383 block with a 4.25 stroke. I'm running one in a 68 Valiant. Low 11s at 5600 feet, 119 MPH in the 1/4 mile. Stealth heads, M-1 intake. If you are using a 383 block, you may as well go with the full 4.25 inch stroke. That 496 is a powerful motor! This one dynoed at over 600 horsepower, at altitude. Sea level would be much more.

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what gearing and tires ??

 

[66Satellite47]

Newer heads are better. Indy, EDE or Trick Flow. But you can make good power with a 906 head and some porting.

 

[HP2]

With all the respect, I'm not looking for POWER.
I want to build a low rev engine for a cruiser/driver. Since the block is matching but need a rebuild I can get a 496 stroker kit for the same money as refreshing the crank and rods, buy new pistons and have the rotating assembly balanced. It saves me time too.
Will keep the 906's stock other from basic cleaning up and match porting.
I want an engine that delivers from idle and up to, maybe 4,500 rpm. I will never go beyond that point.
If I build it right I will get an engine that lasts forever, is good on mileage AND it will feel like I have tons of torque on tap whenever I push the pedal.
Still wanting input from that angle.
Thanks!