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Cleaning electrical wiring connectors

robert horman

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Does anybody have idea on how to clean wiring connectors with a chemical. problem elector connector turning green causing potential electrical fire or short or just no electrical connection with lighting not working. Bob Horman
 
Does anybody have idea on how to clean wiring connectors with a chemical. problem elector connector turning green causing potential electrical fire or short or just no electrical connection with lighting not working. Bob Horman
I'm not sure on the correct chemical Robert but, I clean them in my blast cabinet if I can. It works instantly.
Mike
 
Does anybody have idea on how to clean wiring connectors with a chemical. problem elector connector turning green causing potential electrical fire or short or just no electrical connection with lighting not working. Bob Horman
Dunk the connectors in boiling water with a good dose of Baking Soda - or Bi-Carbonate of Soda.

I only do that if I cannot replace the connectors. Useful on battery terminals also when you get a furry buildup on the clamp terminals.

After cleaning with that solution, rinse with more boiling water, and allow to dry. If necessary, use a small soft wire brush for additional cleaning, then cover with some di-electric grease to prevent a recurrence.
 
mix the baking soda with water in a spray bottle let sit 10 to 15 min, wipe clean repeat if needed use dielectric grease to both side of connectors.
 
I dunk the connectors in a container of a mixture of water and vinegar for 24 hours, and spray them down with electrical cleaner, and coat them with dielectric grease.
 
I’ve heard good reviews on DeOx. Easy to use but not going to remove corrosion to any significant degree like a brass brush will. They make a few different formulations for different electrical purposes.

Amazon product ASIN B0002BBV4G
 
I am about getting 1968 Dodge Charger roadable for long trips and want to do all connections under the hood, so I don't have and breakdowns. I want to clean the terminals where they go into firewall block under the hood. Thanks to all you guys who gave me some of your knowledge on how to clean electrical terminals. thanks to you all "493Mike", "kiwigty", vance.dykes", Dave6T4", and AR67GTX". Bob Horman

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I dunk the connectors in a container of a mixture of water and vinegar for 24 hours, and spray them down with electrical cleaner, and coat them with dielectric grease.
Very good recommendation, as I've done many times. Someone told me a solution of CLR also works.
 
I dipped the connector end in, I think vinegar/ salt solution ( google). Followed by baking soda then water and dielectric grease
 
When I want to clean something like that, I use a hobby brush and muriatic acid. Nothing to take lightly, but it works.
 
After you get the corrosion off, I would spray some Gibbs Lubricant on the connectors. Much better than any dielectric grease.
 
The green crud corrosion on the actual terminals contact area can be cleaned up using various methods described by others. However, if the crimp area of the terminals has signs of corrosion, chances are that the corrosion is under the crimp area where the actual electrical connection is made to the contact terminal. If so, it's likely that the corrosion has also migrated under the insulation of the wire at the crimp. Best solution is to buy some new terminals and re do the suspect connections. Proper crimp tool is also a good thing to have. Many vendors on E bay selling bulkhead terminals. Here's one...
For Dodge Plymouth Mopar Wiring Terminals A B C E Cuda Roadrunner 1964-1974 | eBay
 
I know I'm wasting my time typing this since Robert won't alter his car in any way... But this change is 100% reversible with zero holes drilled... And it greatly reducers the likely hood of an electrical meltdown because it removes the single biggest electrical load from passing through the bulkhead connector.... Get ahold of Crackedback and buy his headlight relay kit.... Your headlights will be brighter that they've ever been, they won't randomly decide to shut off at the most inopportune times and as previously mentioned the poad will no longer pass through the bulkhead connector...
 
Good point from twecomm above. If the corrosion (which is the oxidation of the copper due to exposure to air) is in the copper strands of the wire under the insulation, you’ll also need to watch for the wires being brittle. If that’s the case, a new harness may be in order.
The unseen problems can be trouble - if the corrosion has gotten under the crimps it will have the potential to increase the resistance of the termination, which will cause the termination to get hotter under electrical load. The added heat causes increase resistance, which in turn causes it to heat up more and if that cycle continues unchecked, you meltdown or worse a fire. Not raining on your parade- just for awareness. It all depends on how bad the corrosion is and where it has gone.
 
Be careful how you use the dielectric grease, being more of an insulator than a conductor.
 
Be careful how you use the dielectric grease, being more of an insulator than a conductor.
This is not correct- the idea of being dielectric is that it can't create an electrical path in absence of an actual connection.
It is designed to make an excellent direct connection.
Just ask any automotive manufacturer.
Take apart an ignition switch. Or turn signal switch.
 
I once did a continuity test and resistance test with two small plates coated with dielectric grease and then with No Ox conductive grease sometimes called light bulb grease. I couldn’t find any difference in conductivity.
 
I once did a continuity test and resistance test with two small plates coated with dielectric grease and then with No Ox conductive grease sometimes called light bulb grease. I couldn’t find any difference in conductivity.
Again I thank all who donated there time to write down good advise before I have an electrical problem. I thank all of you. Bob Horman

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Gibbs Lubricant is not only good for corrosion, but it can be used to clean up hoses, plug wires and many other uses.
 
One additional thing. Electrical connectors connect via mechanical tension to keep the male and female connectors firmly touching one another. If those get corroded, bent, broken, etc., they will not work well even if they are spotlessly clean. Inspect the electrical connections carefully to be sure they still function as designed.

We have been round and round with dielectric grease. It SHOULD be an insulator (and it is). And it does NOTHING to compromise electricity flow in a properly seated and working electrical connector. The grease is designed to keep moisture out and protect the contacts.
 
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