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Did I get lucky, or not?

Peter V.

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Location
laredo, Texas
Hey guys I remember two weeks ago I said i had a leak of coolant from under the engine? well I took off the starter and I found where the leak is coming from I just don't know if it's the freeze plug or something else. I also want to know if it's something that's just a patch up and I'm good to go or if it's way way worse. In the blue circle is where I believe the leak to be coming from. In green is a cap of some sort that i was hoping you guys might know what it is. and in the red one is an empty hole that hid behind the starter is something supposed to bolt on there?
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Whack the lip with a hammer & punch until it turns sideways in the hole. After you dry off from taking a bath in engine coolant, you can then pull the plug out and replace it with a new one.
 
In the "Blue" circle it looks like a Freeze Plug


And in the green circle is another freeze plug fail that was repaired with an expanding rubber type fix.
BTW the reason it says to not use a sealer is to help it to grip and not pop out from the coolant pressure but it will still pop when freezing happens.
So that is two freeze plug fails.--There are more to come.
 
Whack the lip with a hammer & punch until it turns sideways in the hole. After you dry off from taking a bath in engine coolant, you can then pull the plug out and replace it with a new one.
so I'm gonna have to drain the coolant first unless I wanna take a coolant shower
 
And in the green circle is another freeze plug fail that was repaired with an expanding rubber type fix.
BTW the reason it says to not use a sealer is to help it to grip and not pop out from the coolant pressure but it will still pop when freezing happens.
So that is two freeze plug fails.--There are more to come.
should i replace the "fail" as well, I mean this far down in Texas it doesn't ever drop to freezing temp.
 
so I'm gonna have to drain the coolant first unless I wanna take a coolant shower

Yes, that would be good, but you won't be able to get all the coolant out of the bottom of the block just by draining it from the radiator.

It's going to be messy work either way.
 
should i replace the "fail" as well, I mean this far down in Texas it doesn't ever drop to freezing temp.

I don't see the point in that. What you need to do is step by step.
The expanding plug fix is user-friendly. Installing a plug like the factory ones requires a good shot of being able to drive in the plug straight and true. This is tough or impractical sometimes with the engine in place.
Knock out your leaking plug and clean the hole as best you can. If you don't have the room to properly drive in a new one use an expanding one to get you back on the road.
However--since you have now two leakers another may not be far off. They all are the same age and have had the same life.
 
I kind of figured as much :thumbsup:,
glad it wasn't anything worse...

reply 2 & 6 in your org. "Flopped" thread
both covers some of the questions
 
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There are block drains on both sides so you don't have to take a full bath. They are just above the oil pan lip on either side, centered front to back. Once you take them out you will have to punch your way through to make them drain.
 
I don't see the point in that. What you need to do is step by step.
The expanding plug fix is user-friendly. Installing a plug like the factory ones requires a good shot of being able to drive in the plug straight and true. This is tough or impractical sometimes with the engine in place.
Knock out your leaking plug and clean the hole as best you can. If you don't have the room to properly drive in a new one use an expanding one to get you back on the road.
However--since you have now two leakers another may not be far off. They all are the same age and have had the same life.
I only have one leaker that's the only one that leaks the self expanding one is completely dry and on the other side there isn't any leaks.
 
There are block drains on both sides so you don't have to take a full bath. They are just above the oil pan lip on either side, centered front to back. Once you take them out you will have to punch your way through to make them drain.


Glad you mentioned that.:) And it's a reminder of what a mess is going on in there. Also when/if those drains are opened they will need to be sealed back up. It may require re-threading the holes to help with sealing issues.
 
I only have one leaker that's the only one that leaks the self expanding one is completely dry and on the other side there isn't any leaks.


My two cents is to open and clean your leaking freeze plug hole. if you can drive in a stock plug this is a plus.
If not --you can see what success can be had with an expanding plug. (by the other one that is working) --No leak--car drives--

This is what brings back the memories of when these cars were what we lived with for transport.
Frankly--I miss those days.

A reminder-- I sealed a leaking freeze plug on my 68 hemi RR. --I did it with a mixture of super glue and napkins on the run. that repair held up for several years.
No leak---no problem--:)
 
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we should probably also mention that there are one each behind the motor mounts and two more between the engine and the trans.
 
You really need to replace all your core plugs "freeze plugs" if you will. You have one leaker, one quickie expansion plug already in play.
Drain your coolant starting at radiator, remove cap, thermostat housing also.
Let it drain, remove block drain plugs, let it drain completely.
Like RC mentioned, drive one end of the plug into the Block with a round chisel (brass) if you have one. Before you start, notice how deep the originals are set in the block. Be careful not to score the mating surface if possible. Pair of pliers can pull out remains. On a big block the front 2 will be behind the motor mounts, fun. Jack engine safely,watch fan/ radiator clearance, remove mounts, hammer away.
Flush the block completely through the water pump housing where T stat mounts, until clear, backflush too.
After 3 days of flushing to get all the crap out, ok maybe a little exaggeration. Clean the block surface best you can, I use a dremel drum sander- lightly. Install DEEP BRASS plugs.1 5/8 I believe, coat them with your preferred sealer, I use permatex aviation - just my choice. There is a special tool to drive them in to depth, I just use a socket the same inside diameter as the plug, and get them straight. I highly recommend BRASS as they do not RUST, and are better at sealing irregularities. Deep ones can be mounted flush with the block. I get mine at NAPA in bulk, but you'll need 6. Order online also if so desired.
Since you've flushed everything else, pull the heater hoses off and do the heater core also, same thing, backflush til clear.
Then put it all back together........
Or start on the 1" ones in the heads, you're a pro by now.
Attached is passenger side 383 showing plugs and block drain. Driver side same
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I agree on deep brass plugs, abut if you aren't planning on pulling the engine, you can probably get a few hundred or even thousands of miles on the rubbers.

I'd also keep about 3 of them in the trunk (with a few gallons of water), since you know they are starting to go.
 
I appreciate your advice, I have a 318 small block, hopefully the other plugs arent under the engine mounts. I'll start working on it tommorow morning. ws23jrt said that a stock plug or one resembling one might be difficult to Install, would installing a expandable one not be worth it?
 
Where ever you buy your Freeze plugs from they might have a instaalation tool you can rent If not you can use a big socket with a extension to drive it in .
 
I appreciate your advice, I have a 318 small block, hopefully the other plugs arent under the engine mounts. I'll start working on it tommorow morning. ws23jrt said that a stock plug or one resembling one might be difficult to Install, would installing a expandable one not be worth it?
Quick fix to get it back on the road is ok.
Until the next one starts.
 
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