Ending the timing cover oil leak

[Kern Dog]

I have dealt with some type of oil leak in my 440/493 since the first build in 2004.
The bottom of the timing cover sits a few thousandths of an inch above the block. I first had a stock steel cover, then a chrome one. Now I have a painted steel one again. Several months back I changed to the gasketless windage tray from Jegs. No leaks on 3 sides but it still weeps a bit at the timing cover area. It was just recently that it occurred to me that despite several attempts to seal this bottom end, each effort resulted in leaks in the same spot.
The timing cover is positioned by the dowel pins. It is held on by the bolts.
I'm wondering if the holes for the dowels can be filed slightly to allow the cover to be positioned slightly lower, effectively being at the same plane as the block. One concern is that the movement from the current position might result in the balancer snout being off center, causing a bigger leak. Maybe the balancer is off center now, huh?
Have you dealt with this before?
I'm building the 383 for my "Jigsaw" Charger and am hoping to keep the oil on the inside of this one.

 

[91r/t]

When I did my 440 and other big blocks, I always did the oil pan and timing cover at the same time so all that permatex went together all at once clean and cured at the same time as once piece. Maybe moving it down would help??? I am interested if that'd work too.

 

[Kern Dog]

I just checked the 383. This timing cover also sits below the block by a few thousandths. I did file the dowel holes a bit. With the TC sitting flush, the bolt holes in the cover still have enough clearance to get the bolts in.

 

[65Fury440]

I don't even try to gasket between the cover and pan.
Not a drop of oil with this stuff.
https://www.permatex.com/products/g...ers/permatex-the-right-stuff-1-minute-gasket/

 

[Don Frelier]

I think the top priority is no leaks around the balancer. I would put it together finger tight and rotate the crank to center it. Then tighten. A cross hatch with 400 on the balancer. other leaks are a matter of a clean surface and a good sealant. I usually use rtv black for those areas.

 

[steve340]

You can measure if the seal housing is concentric to the snout of the crank. I use a pair of outside measuring callipers - checked at 12/3/6/9/ o'clock. I then machine up an alignment tool. Once or twice I have had to drill the dowel holes larger.
The cover can be "off" in any direction really. A lip seal can handle some misalignment but not much.
My 340 engine I machined an alignment tool.

 

[Ski 61701]

I know this Will be a pain, when I monkey with tc cover, I make sure harmonic balancer snout is groove free, if not put a Pioneer repair sleeve on. clean everything, either use gasgacinch on paper gasket and either #2 permatex or copper silicone on bottom rail.
I dont push cover on the block, I keep it on balancer sleeve and draw them into the block together, close enough to where I can start tightening bolts up. your main concern is to keep cover seal in alignment with balancer sleeve. if you start hogging out dowel pins n shifting location of balancer seal instead of a little weep you could have 2 leaks now.
Hope this makes sense

 

[Kern Dog]

Yeah, that is a concern. I don't want to stop a pan leak and start one from the crank seal.

 

[moparmarks]

Some good info here. I hate oil leaks more than anything. So depressing having leaks on a new motor or tranny or diff which I too have dealt with.
I use the Right Stuff on some things and it works great UNTIL you need to take it back part. Sometimes you'll almost destroy the part trying to remove it so be carful where you use that.
I've used Speedy Sleeves too when and where I can but that sometimes is not an option.
I've try installing the pan and TC cover together so they cure together. Sometimes it works and sometimes not so well.
Ski61701's method might be worth a shot???
I don't really have anything useful to add but I will be watching this thread to see what other guy have done.