• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Engine oil questions

John H

Well-Known Member
Local time
9:23 AM
Joined
Mar 11, 2023
Messages
60
Reaction score
17
Location
Bridgewater, Mass
Good morning,
Couple oil questions. I have a 67 Coronet driver with a 383 4 barrel that I bought last year. So far, I drove it around 1000 miles. I am in Massachusetts so it doesn't get driven much in the winter.
1. Do you change your oil every year? Regardless of how much you drive it?
2. What type/weight oil and brand do you use. AMS oil recommendations? Also, filter recommendations.
 
I change oil every year regardless of mileage. Heat and combustion byproducts create acids which can damage an engine. Routine oil changes are cheap insurance.

As far as oil preference, I run HD 30W but ask 100 people you’ll probably get 100 different answers…
 
Good morning,
Couple oil questions. I have a 67 Coronet driver with a 383 4 barrel that I bought last year. So far, I drove it around 1000 miles. I am in Massachusetts so it doesn't get driven much in the winter.
1. Do you change your oil every year? Regardless of how much you drive it?
2. What type/weight oil and brand do you use. AMS oil recommendations? Also, filter recommendations.
Fred the GTX has a 440 with a Mopar purpleshaft cam. Nothing fancy....
1. Yep.
2. Depends on what cam you have. Flat tappet "old school" type? You best be using good "conventional"
oil with proper zinc and phosphorus in it.
Personal favorites? Brad Penn/Penn Grade "green stuff", Driven brand HR-1 "high zinc" or Valvoline VR1
"high zinc". No synthetics (engine wasn't designed for them).

By contrast, both my late-model "hemi" Mopars get nothing but Mobil1 full synthetic. I've used it since
1990 in all my "new" cars and had zero issues - in fact, none of them ever showed any serious wear
despite a ton of miles.
 
68 Coronet w/340...
Yep, change it every year - for reasons stated above. I use Penn Grade 10W40 (it has the ZDDP additive)
 
I use Lucas Hot Rod and either a Wix or a Mopar filter.
But changing it every year I don't think the filter makes a huge difference the oil is the big thing.
Just don't use a Fram filter they are junk.
 
Good morning,
Couple oil questions. I have a 67 Coronet driver with a 383 4 barrel that I bought last year. So far, I drove it around 1000 miles. I am in Massachusetts so it doesn't get driven much in the winter.
1. Do you change your oil every year? Regardless of how much you drive it?
2. What type/weight oil and brand do you use. AMS oil recommendations? Also, filter recommendations.
I use the

AMSOIL Z-ROD® 10W-30 100% SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL​

In my street car, mild hydraulic flat tappet, and a procharger I don't drive it much and I don't change unless it gets dark, couple years now and it still looks new.

Recovered_JPEG Digital Camera_5843.jpg
 
I use Lucas Hot Rod and either a Wix or a Mopar filter.
But changing it every year I don't think the filter makes a huge difference the oil is the big thing.
Just don't use a Fram filter they are junk.
Napa Gold 1034 for Nadine
 
I normally run straight 50 (just habit from way back) in my current motor though after feeling the power needed to turn the oil pump when i primed it i am going to run 30w.. Don't want to chew up the bronze drive gear, plus had 80psi with a cordless drill.. i think it will be fine with some thinner oil.

P.S. am even thinking 20w synthetic... but will see what pressure is like once it's running..
 
Last edited:
I had five decades of oil history with Baby Blue, the '68 GTX I owned from 1983-91, and 2013-21. The car ran Castrol GTX 20W-50 from new until I sold it in 1991. Oil changes every 2500 miles, than annually after I bought it, averaging about 700 miles a year. The guy I sold it to was a mechanical engineer, and promised to maintain the same routine. He owned the car for 20 years. When I got the car back in 2013, I initially ran Shell Rotella 15W40, annual oil change. I also used Rotella in my Peterbilt 379, so I always had a jug on hand.

When the big trucks started using DEF for emissions controls, the oil companies reduced the zinc content in the formulas, to extend the life of the exhaust scrubbers. I switched to Valvoline VR1, 20W-50, which was readily available off the shelf in my area. When I sold Baby Blue in 2021, with 119,000 miles, the original engine had never been touched, except for new valve seals, and still ran perfectly. I've always used Mopar or NAPA gold (WIX) oil filters.
 
Wix filters are without comparison in quality and best by far oil is Brad Penn driven or Kendall period
I used to run Kendall in everything... back when I lived in western PA. I haven't seen it nearly 20 years.. didn't know it still existed.
 
I get to drive my '63 1200 miles or so each season, change it every spring when I'm waking it up after a winter sleep. Having solid lifters I use hi-zinc oil VR-1 10/30. Ran 20/50 for awhile finding it wasn't necessary having goofy high oil pressure and along the read about higher vis motor oils, it can create higher engine temps (something I had issues with). Not sure if going to 10/30 made a difference having done several things to lower the temp, but obtained the desired results. Some motors can use a higher viz depending on the build and how it is to be driven (such as racing) and some don't need it.
 
Every year but I change mine in the fall. Cars sit all winter with fresh oil ready to go. That my thinking anyway.

Rotella in anything with stock valve train. VR1 in anything with higher spring rates.

Typically Wix filters for everything.
 
Oil viscosity will depend on mileage of motor and what clearances the motor has. If it's a standard build, 10w/30 to 20w/50 will work. You're going to get a 100 different opinions. I run 20w/50 and never had and issue.
 
Wix 51515 on my 383 in the Charger with either Brad Penn 10-40 or Valviline VR-1
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top