Front suspension wiggle

[JG1966]

I would just disconnect the center link from the idler and see how much play it has. Shim as needed and reassemble. Unless you are taking all the other stuff apart to check for piece of mind?

Thanks RT. Yeah, I had to loosen everything to get idler arm loose so I'm changing all the boots while I'm in there. When I put idler arm back in the K frame "ears," without the bolt, how snug should it be between the ears? I have a little gap. A 3/32 inch thick washer won't fit. A 1/16 will probably fit. I also noticed it took a lot of effort to swing idler arm back and forth when it was bolted in there and torqued down. It was by no means free and easy (if it's even supposed to be).

 

[BLK 68 R/T]

It should fit snug in the ears with no space. Should be able to swing it left and right with no binding. I recall fairly minimal effort with one hand to move it.

 

[JG1966]

It should fit snug in the ears with no space. Should be able to swing it left and right with no binding. I recall fairly minimal effort with one hand to move it.

Well, I found one issue for sure. I put in a 1/16 washer, which made it snug in the ears --- really snug -- but when I tightened the bolt the idler arm wouldn't budge. Not at all, with all my might. I took out washer and tightened bolt fairly tight -- but nowhere near the 65 lb. torque spec -- and it still takes all my might to move arm back and forth. Maybe my ears are bent somehow or my almost brand new Moog idler arm is junk. But it is not moving with anything close to minimal effort.

 

[BLK 68 R/T]

Maybe the idler arm doesn’t have the pivot point raised enough? Think of a tube inside a tube and the inside tube is slightly taller on each end, so when you tighten the bolt it clamps the longer tube snug in the bracket, but the outer tube is able to rotate freely. I think that is probably what is happening here with the inner and outer are the same length so when you tighten it, you are essentially clamping it in place. I would put a washer in to take up any slack and replace the nut with a nylock and tighten it until you get resistance, but can still pivot it by hand.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Maybe the idler arm doesn’t have the pivot point raised enough? Think of a tube inside a tube and the inside tube is slightly taller on each end, so when you tighten the bolt it clamps the longer tube snug in the bracket, but the outer tube is able to rotate freely. I think that is probably what is happening here with the inner and outer are the same length so when you tighten it, you are essentially clamping it in place. I would put a washer in to take up any slack and replace the nut with a nylock and tighten it until you get resistance, but can still pivot it by hand.

It definitely should pivot on the inner sleeve, not the bolt... The bolt should be a non-wearing part.... There should be some resistance to pivoting but not much and no up & down movement...

 

[BLK 68 R/T]

It definitely should pivot on the inner sleeve, not the bolt... The bolt should be a non-wearing part.... There should be some resistance to pivoting but not much and no up & down movement...

Sleeve is the word I was looking for earlier...was having a brain fart though lol.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Sleeve is the word I was looking for earlier...was having a brain fart though lol.

Cerebral Flatulence..... BTDT

 

[JG1966]

Maybe the idler arm doesn’t have the pivot point raised enough? Think of a tube inside a tube and the inside tube is slightly taller on each end, so when you tighten the bolt it clamps the longer tube snug in the bracket, but the outer tube is able to rotate freely. I think that is probably what is happening here with the inner and outer are the same length so when you tighten it, you are essentially clamping it in place. I would put a washer in to take up any slack and replace the nut with a nylock and tighten it until you get resistance, but can still pivot it by hand.

Thanks RT!! This is exactly what's happening! The longer, inner tube isn't going to the bolt hole. It's either too wide or the two tubes are the same length and it's making contact with the ear. When I tighten it, it's clamped in place. I like the nylock idea.

 

[JG1966]

I need some clarification please. Newer idler arm is on left, old one on right. If I put the old one in a vice, clamping on the sleeves, should the arm spin? On the new one, the washers are attached as one piece and I can't see any sleeve, inner or outer.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Can you put new one in a vise and turn it?

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I need some clarification please. Newer idler arm is on left, old one on right. If I put the old one in a vice, clamping on the sleeves, should the arm spin? Yes. On the new one, the washers are attached as one piece and I can't see any sleeve, inner or outer.
View attachment 1011590

The arm should pivot with the washers clamped..

 

[JG1966]

Can you put new one in a vise and turn it?

Neither of them turn freely when clamped in a vice

 

[JG1966]

The arm should pivot with the washers clamped..

Neither of them pivot. Think I know my issue

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Neither of them pivot. Think I know my issue

I've seen some made that way... It's not correct, not how Chrysler designed it to work... The regular ones are supposed to have a greased pivot, the good ones have bearings...

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I just went & looked for a roller bearing idler arm kit, couldn't find a listing.... They have always been hard to find, might watch Ebay...

Or Firm Feel...

http://www.firmfeel.com/c_body_mopar_idler_arm_bearing_kit_2.html

It says C body but if you look at the list of what it fits it actually fits most everything...

 

[JG1966]

I've seen some made that way... It's not correct, not how Chrysler designed it to work... The regular ones are supposed to have a greased pivot, the good ones have bearings...

I used a better vice and the old one does in fact pivot on the sleeves. The new one definitely does NOT. I took them to an old timer and he says old one is still perfectly good. I might put that one back in with a washer to take away play and see what happens.

 

[BLK 68 R/T]

Grease the old one good. Also I think the original ones had seals (foam??) on the inner sleeve to keep dirt and water out.

 

[Fran Blacker]

1 Wild R/T's post #35 is the way to my opinion.

 

[JG1966]

Grease the old one good. Also I think the original ones had seals (foam??) on the inner sleeve to keep dirt and water out.

I didn't have hardware for old idler arm and didn't really want to put on a 48-year-old arm. So I went to my local parts store and got a new Moog that has the same, correct design. I tested it in the store on a vice and it pivots smoothly. I also realized my new one -- which DOES NOT pivot -- is not a Moog. It's from a certain suspension company in New Jersey that I'm certain are members on here.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Sounds like you've got it solved...