Drove to a car show last Saturday and she got p to 200 while up and down some hills on a two lane road then cooled down to 185-190.
overall the whole trip went well, as the fans cooled her down much faster than anything I have had on it before, in less than 10 minutes with the fan relay set at 150° and the temps at 215 after parking her, she cooled right off.
I waited to see how long it would take and the fans cut off after only 10 min. looked at the mech gauge and it read 160°. The temps outside were in the high 80's to low 90's. I will try to do another 110°+ degree day run but that sucked and honestly I don't take my un air conditioned hotrod out in those temps even when running antifreeze / water lmao! Just trying to get a full range of testing in, since I started this whole thing in winter it needed to be tested in summer.
Ok to try to answer some of your questions lol and I am not the expert so all I can do is give you experience info. Call Evan's for their tech help they are actually pretty nice guys.
"You say you have a 440source water pump; is that the pulley made for it? " Yes I have the 440 pump and thier pulley with a spacer behind it otherwise it hits the bolts on the housing. using a round spacer from summit.
http://store.440source.com/Billet-A...mp-Pulley-Single-Groove/productinfo/200-1105/
"spoke with them and they told me that their pulley is an underdriven type; (flows less?) as it's made for race type applications; high revs" Um ok? there is nothing in the description about that but ok. has it made a difference compared to a stock pulley? I couldn't tell you as I could not see any difference but it is possible it is the case. I can see the coolant flowing while its idling and reving.
"Second, I read somewhere years ago that running without a stat can actually cause an engine to run warmer as coolant flows through the radiator too fast to release all the heat." The Evan's coolant is a slippery viscous fluid like vegetable oil almost so its thickness keeps it flowing pretty constantly even blazing hot it is still slippery. It's chemical compounds are what pulls the heat away from the engine and sends it to the radiator for cooling, does it seem warmer than with a stat? No it ran hotter with the stat installed and seemed more restricted it was Evan's recommendation to run without it. it definitely improved the cooling aspects without a stat, in winter it does take an extra couple minutes for the heat in the heater to blow hot. but not anything to complain about. with the stat installed it would take up to 15 min was weird.
"
What do you think?" lol well I think you will be fine, stock pulley or 440s pulley, I got mine for looks mainly. wanted bilet not chrome.
For the size of your tubes and number of rows you can check the size of the tubes visually from the top, open the cap and look in take a tape measure and eyeball, most are 3/4 3 rows, my new rad is 1" 2 row.
If you think about it a 2 row radiator with the cooling fins in between the rows and the thickness of that set up vs a 4 row with many more fins which one would you think would cool better in stop and go traffic? lol a lot of people get confused on this set up. The 2 row because the less restrictive it is. 4 rows of fins is pretty thick and when air at idle is not very much with a stock fan or a flex fan it doesn't make sense to restrict your air flow like that unless you have a big *** truck and a huge 20" fan! lol
Same thing with pusher fans, I had one on this last set up pushing air once the temps got to 200° just to aid in the air flow, did it help? a little but also caused a little restriction too by blocking a small amount of flow through the front of the radiator.
I just looked at the stock pulley that is on my 383 and it looks the same size.
" noted that there is approx. 3.75 inches of unused space side to side between the frame rails and radiator ends of my 73 RR clone so I am also considering a larger radiator although the opening through the radiator support is approx. 26 and 3/4"
If the radiator does not fit all the way around you can run gaskets to seal it up, just saying I have seen it done well it's not noticeable.
" have a 26" crossflow aluminum radiator with twin 10" puller fans, approx 2600 cfm total"
I would recommend you get duals or get a fan that gets you as much cfm as possible. I would have bought a 4000 cfm set up but didn't have the $500 to spend on it.
My dual 12" fans are super quiet, its amazing compared to the derale 14" pusher I was using, I can't hear them while driving at all, I have a 100 amp alt so even if they pull 45 amps when running I got it covered. I just ordered a CFM meter from ebay to double check the the flow rate.
Somethings to keep in mind with the Evan's waterless coolant - and trust me it is hard to not want to go back to water / inhibitor mix just because water is a better heat transfer and it does seem the Evan's runs 10-15° hotter which just makes you nutty sometimes but I try to remind myself of the benefits and how they outweigh the difference.
Benefits:
Reduces System Pressure, Prevents Overheating,
Maximizes BHP - not sure about this last claim lol
Corrosive Properties: Unbeatable protection against corrosion and electrolysis
Life Span: Protects for life of the engine
http://www.evanscooling.com/products/high-performance-coolant/
The Evan's does not pressurize, the first time you get brave enough to pull the cap off when you know it's 200°+ and see there is not pop you will be amazed trust me lol so will all the people you prove it to.
The Evan's does not promote corrosion that can happen normally with iron motors, regular 50/50 mix or any combo of water and whatever will promote rust, and who in their right mind would want to put something in their motor that they know is rusting it out from the inside?? I mean how many of us are intentionally rusting the cylinder walls just so they can see 180° on their gauge? My motor is 30 over so I could go another 30 and want to keep it that way in 10-20 years from now, will a water filled motor be able to do that?
If you are running different types of metals in your water stream like aluminum heads, water pump, etc - the difference in metals using water cause a chemical reaction that accelerates corrosion. If you're all stock then you don't need or should use evans. But if not you don't want to make your engine rust faster do you? the inhibitors in all stuff out there only last 3-6 months and need to be replaced to be 100% effective. Do you change your antifreeze every 3-6 months? I never did.
"If the Evans coolant doesn't do the job completely, I thought maybe an oil cooler might help. What do you think?" I think an oil cooler is a great idea, as soon as I upgrade my steering box to a stage 3 firm fell or borgeson I am taking my oil cooler I am using now for power steering and using it for oil. or trans.
I will report back two more times one when I can get her out in higher outside temps 100 or over and again when its winter here, because of this new radiator and fan setup, I am also going to switch carbs for a minute to take her back to the Dyno
I'm not pushing this product at all just sharing my experience so if someone like yourself is considering Evan's you can at least see some insite on a similar set up. Good Luck!! you will be fine don't worry.
Thank you for the excellent thread. I am considering using Evans in my 440. I anxiously await the results from the last upgrade. I do have a couple questions though. You say you have a 440source water pump; is that the pulley made for it? I spoke with them and they told me that their pulley is an underdriven type; (flows less?) as it's made for race type applications; high revs. Second, I read somewhere years ago that running without a stat can actually cause an engine to run warmer as coolant flows through the radiator too fast to release all the heat. I might be suffering from senility, but that's what I recall. I intend to purchase and install the 440source pump but with my stock pulley so I move as much coolant as possible. In my case I have no heater box in the car so now would be the best time to flush it out and do the Evans thing. I have a 26" crossflow aluminum radiator with twin 10" puller fans, approx 2600 cfm total, not sure how many rows of tubes. I am trying to sell my house and move to Florida and I want to be able to drive my baby regardless of how hot it is down there. I noted that there is approx. 3.75 inches of unused space side to side between the frame rails and radiator ends of my 73 RR clone so I am also considering a larger radiator although the opening through the radiator support is approx. 26 and 3/4". I have a Derale dual fan controller but I spliced in manual overrides to head off the heat before it gets out of hand. I also spliced in a separate run light for each fan as I can't hear them running with the engine on with the headers and cherry bombs singing. Eventually I would like to put an A/C box back in it. I would also like to get a cool-view visible stat housing so I can see the coolant flow. If the Evans coolant doesn't do the job completely, I thought maybe an oil cooler might help. What do you think? I am still riveted to my seat hoping that your last upgrade works out well. Thanks again!
Stock pulley
I was able compare the two pulleys the 440source bilet one and the oem stock one and they are the same size.