Hawaiian 512 Stroker Build

[gill4321]

Hi good folks of FBBO,

I will be posting build pics on this thread along with questions since its my first mopar build. I recently got my 440 block back from the Machinist (which took a year). This place was so so. The stroker kit is from 440 source. My plans are for a mild 512 stroker that tickles the 600hp mark. 10.5-1 Compression with trickflow 240 heads. Haven't decided on a cam yet. My first question will be along with pictures. The cam bearing that also has the oil holes for the heads seems to be a little miss aligned and need some advice on how to resolve the issue. Any questions or Comments welcome.

 

[dieseldazzle]

Same combo here.

Did you have the machine shop check the pins? Every source kit I've used (they will tell you this too when you buy it) the pins were tight.

I use durabond cam bearings.
I used to obsess over the oil hole being completely aligned until I started putting in my own cam bearings, ran out of patience and threw one together less than perfectly aligned.

Haven't had an issue.

 

[gill4321]

Same combo here.

Did you have the machine shop check the pins? Every source kit I've used (they will tell you this too when you buy it) the pins were tight.

I use durabond cam bearings.
I used to obsess over the oil hole being completely aligned until I started putting in my own cam bearings, ran out of patience and threw one together less than perfectly aligned.

Haven't had an issue.

Yes I had the machine shop check and hone the pin bores perfect. All is well on that front.

 

[gill4321]

Checking it all out and it looks spot on. Now for some more prep and casting flash removal. Waiting on a block cleaning brush set. Any tips for cleaning the block other than just get every nook and cranny. Pressure washing?

 

[gill4321]

Ok here is a question that I have. I got ARP main cap bolts. I had the Machine shop use the stock main cap bolts for line honing. I will check both with a bore gauge. How important would it be to re linehone the block for the ARP's?

 

[malex]

If you're replacing the bolts with main studs, that's when it is said that you would need to re line hone.

 

[not so famous bob]

If you're replacing the bolts with main studs, that's when it is said that you would need to re line hone.

check he bolts against the studs, where you are most likely to run into trouble is if the studs have a larger diameter up the shaft , than the studs. torque them down and check the parting lines in the block.

 

[miller]

The cam bearing that also has the oil holes for the heads seems to be a little miss aligned and need some advice on how to resolve the issue.

At least they had the bearing lined up...but either not in far enough, or too far. Probably oil okay. Or, possibly 'borrow' their cam bearing tool, to move the bearing into place.

 

[Don selleck]

Wow a mopar in Hawaii awesome I lived there in the 80,s alot of suped up Toyota etc. When back there in 08, alot has changed. Never even saw a old mopar there, you must be like a rock star driving down Ala Moana ( think that's the main drag thru honolulu). Awesome car, bruddah

 

[Don Chapel]

Think only if you switch to studs you would need to redo it. Also if you go to aftermarket main caps

 

[gill4321]

Think only if you switch to studs you would need to redo it. Also if you go to aftermarket main caps

I decided to stick with are main bolts. I am mostly through my build. I will post pictures soon. Just need to get a couple more items.

Aloha

 

[wyrmrider]

bottom tap all the holes
small drill through the thrust from the rear into the oil passage then open the thrust bearing where the hole is to pressure oil the thrust- especially on a stick with high spring clutch
ditto with a hole through the cam thrust to pressure oil the cam thrust
drill holes through the plugs on the front of the oil passages to bled off any air/ bubbles- also oils the chain
lightly break/ chamfer the parting lines where the caps install
take a bearing scraper and scrape from the center of the thrust main to the rear to help oil the thrust
the crank is being pressed forward by either the converter or the clutch so all the oil wants to flow out the front- where there is then more clearance- where
it does nothing
check and break the bottoms of your cylinder bores- you do not want them acting as piston scrapers or scrappers
you can countersink the tops of the bolt holes on the deck to prevent sharp edges or raising when the bolt pulls up
do not put big champers on the top of the cylinders at the deck, just lightly break the sharp edge
you can paint the inside of the block with GLYPTOL or something more modern- do NOT use rustoleum (or silicone anywhere)
do not sweet the oil holes
best to grove the od of the bearing or the id of the block and clock the oil hole at 4 oclock
you do NOT want the oil feed straight up- all the oil bleeds as the valves springs push the cam DOWN
and it's rotating V8's are different than the common picture of I 4 or I 6 bearing hole optimum location
check your lifter bores- did you put bushings in?
if not deburr and hit lightly with a hone and CLEAN

 

[gill4321]

bottom tap all the holes
small drill through the thrust from the rear into the oil passage then open the thrust bearing where the hole is to pressure oil the thrust- especially on a stick with high spring clutch
ditto with a hole through the cam thrust to pressure oil the cam thrust
drill holes through the plugs on the front of the oil passages to bled off any air/ bubbles- also oils the chain
lightly break/ chamfer the parting lines where the caps install
take a bearing scraper and scrape from the center of the thrust main to the rear to help oil the thrust
the crank is being pressed forward by either the converter or the clutch so all the oil wants to flow out the front- where there is then more clearance- where
it does nothing
check and break the bottoms of your cylinder bores- you do not want them acting as piston scrapers or scrappers
you can countersink the tops of the bolt holes on the deck to prevent sharp edges or raising when the bolt pulls up
do not put big champers on the top of the cylinders at the deck, just lightly break the sharp edge
you can paint the inside of the block with GLYPTOL or something more modern- do NOT use rustoleum (or silicone anywhere)
do not sweet the oil holes
best to grove the od of the bearing or the id of the block and clock the oil hole at 4 oclock
you do NOT want the oil feed straight up- all the oil bleeds as the valves springs push the cam DOWN
and it's rotating V8's are different than the common picture of I 4 or I 6 bearing hole optimum location
check your lifter bores- did you put bushings in?
if not deburr and hit lightly with a hone and CLEAN

Done Done and Done. good info.

 

[gill4321]

teaser pic

 

[1967coronet440]

teaser pic

View attachment 567375

Nice, is it bored .060?

 

[gill4321]

Nice, is it bored .060?

.030

 

[1967coronet440]

.030

I always thought a 512 was with a .060 bore. So what is 512 a 4.25 stroke 4.35 piston on a 7.1 rod?

 

[wyrmrider]

always bore as little as possible
stronger trumps a few extra cu in

 

[wyrmrider]

always bore as little as possible
stronger trumps a few extra cu in

 

[gill4321]

I always thought a 512 was with a .060 bore. So what is 512 a 4.25 stroke 4.35 piston on a 7.1 rod?

Yes.

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