Header bolt in the way

[fwi]

Trying to install headers, driver side fits in perfect, however the stud on the right in this photos is too long as the curve in #1 pipe bumps up against it. Stud appears to be about 5/16" too long, should I saw if off or try to remove it and replace with shorter one, or a bolt, or ........your suggestions please.

 

[super-bee_ski]

Hmm
I have not had that problem recently BUT you can remove and install a "bolt"
That is what I have done in the past.
I have found when installing the "Bolt" it's best to try to use a 12 point.

 

[Bill Monk]

Hmm
I have not had that problem recently BUT you can remove and install a "bolt"
That is what I have done in the past.
I have found when installing the "Bolt" it's best to try to use a 12 point.

Agreed and be sure to use never seize on the bolt if you ever intend to get it back out! Hopefully, the stud will come out, I've broke them before and that sucks.

 

[Paul a]

Are you going in from top or coming up from bottom ? If its both cases try backing it out

 

[fwi]

Are you going in from top or coming up from bottom ? If its both cases try backing it out

The header fits perfectly onto the studs except for that second one that bumps up against the curve in the pipe.

 

[Daves69]

Saw it.

By the way, make sure the header flange is thick enough to keep your nut from bottoming on the stud shank.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Here's another option...simple, but requires CAREFUL measuring. Measure VERY carefully how much you need to trim that stud. Too long & you'll be in the same boat you're in now. Too short & the nut won't bolt it up.

With the header off, run two grade 8 nuts onto that stud. Use one of them as your "cutting mark" and use the other one (behind it) as a "jam nut" to keep the first nut in place. Then pull out the old hacksaw, cutoff wheel, etc. & give that stud a "haircut" to the proper length. Then, take those two nuts off to clean up the threads you burred up & install the header.

I've done this trick myself a few times. Those studs are really easy to break off without a torch (done that a few times too). In a perfect world, you would have swapped out all the studs for bolts when rebuilding the heads. Bolts give you about 2" more clearance...which is real nice when installing headers.

Oh, and a fyi - the end two studs on big block heads go into cooling passages (not the one you're working on), so if you used bolts, you need some silicone on the end ones for each head.

 

[440+6]

If you decide to remove the stud it will leak coolant, drain the radiator first.

 

[kiwigtx]

If you decide to remove the stud it will leak coolant, drain the radiator first.

Correct, and if it were me, I would use a correct style header bolt in that position. The bolt will not need cutting down.....just be sure to run some sealant on the thread before you install it.

 

[moparwacko]

Not to be picky, but that is the drivers side in the pic. Was it just for reference? But yep FWI, you've encountered the typical clearancing issue. A trip to the local speed shop for some real 12pt header bolts is in order.
Have fun

 

[Garys1969RR]

I usually leave the studs in the 2 end positions on the head, and header bolts for the other 4 spots. That way, your gasket is held in alignment, and the end positions usually have plenty of clearance for a nut.

 

[Lionized]

I usually leave the studs in the 2 end positions on the head, and header bolts for the other 4 spots. That way, your gasket is held in alignment, and the end positions usually have plenty of clearance for a nut.

^ This. ^

 

[theman440]

Cut down the stud and use a "jam" nut. They are thinner than a standard nut, if the header flange is slotted in that spot use a flat washer too. More often than not a bolt in that spot will leak eventually. This is my opinion on the subject.