How hard is it to change the crank seals on a 383

[ChgrSteve67]

My motor has always dribbled a little oil here and there but now its really starting to make a mess under my Charger.

I know I have to pull the motor but how hard is it to change the seals without pulling the crank? Can I just pull the pan and pull the old ones out and press the new ones in?

-Steve

 

[dave5237]

I am told it could be done but have never done it myself. Mine too leaked before my rebuild.

 

[hunt2elk]

If it is just the rear main, you can do that in the car up on stands. I had the best luck with a billet aluminum rear cap kit from Indy Heads. I think it was a $70 item plus your oil pan gaskets.

 

[dave5237]

If it is just the rear main, you can do that in the car up on stands. I had the best luck with a billet aluminum rear cap kit from Indy Heads. I think it was a $70 item plus your oil pan gaskets.

Yeah. My rear only leaked.

 

[Cava3r4]

If it is just the rear main, you can do that in the car up on stands. I had the best luck with a billet aluminum rear cap kit from Indy Heads. I think it was a $70 item plus your oil pan gaskets.

yes, and the front one you just remove the alternator, power steering, A/C compressor, and any smog pump, the harmonic balancer, then the water pump housing. (STrip the front off the motor basically) then you remove the timing chain cover and pop the old seal out, clean it real well, put some RTV on the new seal and press it into the timing chain cover and re-install.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

If it is just the rear main, you can do that in the car up on stands. I had the best luck with a billet aluminum rear cap kit from Indy Heads. I think it was a $70 item plus your oil pan gaskets.

What is the advantage of using the billet rather than stock?....................................MO

 

[Garys1969RR]

I have never used the billet one, but hear good things about them. On my 383 and 451, using the factory rear main seal, I always of course clean the retainer and the block area around it. After installing the seal as per instructions, I always put black RTV hi oil resistance silicone along the sides of the seal retainer on the OUTSIDE of the engine where the retainer meets the block. That prevents the side seals from leaking, and mine never leaked. These are a little tricky, and many have had leaks after putting in new ones. I have never done one with the motor in the car, but some people have. With the engine out of the car its pretty easy.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

Bunp,,,Still wanting to know what makes the billet seal retainer better than the stock one.....................MO

 

[tallhair]

Bunp,,,Still wanting to know what makes the billet seal retainer better than the stock one.....................MO

I'm assuming more precise fit and strength to resist distortion due to billet/machining over factory piece but would like to hear answers and experiences with them too.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

I'm assuming more precise fit and strength to resist distortion due to billet/machining over factory piece but would like to hear answers and experiences with them too.

Tallhair, no response so the billet must be like a lot of other aftermarket stuff--Doesn't really do anything, just new and if it is billet, it's got to be good! I see them for sale in different places...............................MO

 

[tallhair]

I know some folks have used them. Surely someone will pop up with some feedback on their results