How to rebuild steering coupler on '73 RR

[Nacho-RT74]

To get a "cheap" red/orange seal kit in 20-30, better the Dorman in 6 what is also red/orange LOL... but 6 IS cheap... then get separatelly the black seal if you want.


Honestly my car got the red Mopar piece kit and have being working flawlessly

 

['68 Charger]

To get a "cheap" red/orange seal kit in 20-30, better the Dorman in 6 what is also red/orange LOL... but 6 IS cheap... then get separatelly the black seal if you want.


Honestly my car got the red Mopar piece kit and have being working flawlessly

Oh okay my bad, I thought that if they were orange that it was made of lesser quality material. The good ones I've seen (held in my hand) have a better quality in material and they were all black.

The orange seal I bought (seal only) was $5.00 shipped. That should've been a red flag. And sure as hell it was junk. So I paid $13.00 shipped for the DMT seal which was black and had the part numbers on it. Great seal.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Well maybe they are junk! Dunno, LOL, but the kit I got on a Mopar sealed bag is still nice on my car. I got couple of sets ( one for spare ) in $15 each maybe 6-7 years ago.

Some ppl have posted about the Dorman piece being junk, however, are the Mopar peces really Mopar, or just Dorman Pieces ( or whatever manufacturer ) repackaged? What is what ppl claims about the Dorman kit? Just Seal or rest of parts?

Still can get the Dorman kit and replace the seal from DMT and still will be on "original" Mopar numbers price

 

[Nacho-RT74]

At Rockauto... on ebay jumps between 8 and 20, plus shipping

Where Rockauto shipping charges are cheaper, and you can get. Discount code around

 

[idrivemopar]

Just an FYI, these "orange" seals are junk. The rest of the kit might be fine but the black seals are way much better.

DMT sells quality stuff and they have these parts with lightning fast shipping. Class act business all the way. And no I do not work for DMT or profit from their sales.

View attachment 497130

Absolutely correct on the seal, I ordered a separate black seal when I did my rebuild.

 

[idrivemopar]

Just for reference, here is a picture of the coupler showing the pin that UKPlymouth was wondering about earlier in this thread,

 

[UKPlymouth]

Ok, I was given a generic rebuild set with the orange sleeve. I had the impression that the centre hole for the steering column/shaft was too small in diameter.
Anyway, I'll follow your advice, thanks.

 

[UKPlymouth]

Ok guys, finally got around to this job. Got the rubber rag joint apart easily, but in can't seem to drive the small pin into the coupler (the one posted in the pic above). Is it usually difficult? Really awkward trying to get a hammer and punch in there

 

['68 Charger]

Did you try it from underneath? Sometimes you can get a better swing motion with a hammer from doing it from crawling underneath the car. Raise the front end up, remove the LH wheel and of course use jack stands. Position the steering column to where the pin is facing straight up & down or whatever position is best from your angle. Lock the steering column once you're happy with the position so it doesn't turn on you while making blows with the hammer.

 

[UKPlymouth]

Ok, thanks hadn't considered that. I don't have a steering lock but can work round that. I'm not sure why, but this job has me pretty baffled. Can't work out why I can slide the coupler up and down the column (with rag joint out of the way) but not pull it off completely.

 

[FunnyLion]

Hi guys, reading through this thread has been very helpful as I am just busy reassembling the steering on my 1973 charger. What puzzles me however is the function of the spring just on top of the steering coupler body going up to the steering column. What does it do ?

Related to that, which one of both splines goes through the position above the coupler body? When I disassembled I removed 2 big splines; one is below the coupler and fixes it to the steering gear; the other one goes on top through the shaft. One is longer however then the other and can hold the spring back from the coupler pot; but I am not sure this is how it's supposed to be ?
Is this correct ?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I'm not familiar with the 73 assembly but I guess th spring keeps the shaft lower bearing in place?

Secong stuff... I'm not sure about the question. Splines or pins? Once again I'm not familiar with 73 assembly. I guess both retainer pins are about the same? And if one is longer than the other... i think the longer goes to keep the spring in place, while the bottom one doesn't need to goes full through the shaft, but barelly going through the steering box spline stud.

Just being logic.

 

[73RedRunner]

I believe the spring is there to provide a constant and consistent tension on the shaft, helps eliminate movement fore and aft in the column. Driver doesn't perceive a "jiggle" and the bearings don't take a lot of abuse from sudden, opposing lateral loads.

Yep, those are the correct positions for the pins (splines) through the shaft.

Note that I ain't an engineer, your mileage may vary, I didn't sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night, and no representation is made that the post received from one FBBO member is better than any other FBBO member. Sorta, kinda, and well......maybe.

 

[FunnyLion]

Thanks guys. I was thinking the same but it's nice to have some confirmation; especially when there is little to be found in the repair manuals.