Looking for "clean" ignition wire for Sniper 2

[Belchfire 5000]

I'm in the process of installing the Sniper 2 and it calls for a clean wire that is switched and is hot while cranking. The only ones I can find are off the ignition key and they are used for other things and I'm not seeing one from the fuse box. I have the stock fuse box, key and ignition. Anybody have any ideas?
Thanks in advance,
Evan

 

[Loulang]

There are some post on this. I went through it too

 

[Belchfire 5000]

There are some post on this. I went through it too

Have searched but not finding anything but connecting the 2 ign. posts on the switch and running the pink wire off of that. What did you do?

 

[kiwigtx]

Plenty of discussion here about that pink wire location.

 

[gkent]

Starter relay.

 

[kiwigtx]

Starter relay.

 

[pnora]

Have searched but not finding anything but connecting the 2 ign. posts on the switch and running the pink wire off of that. What did you do?

There is your answer.

 

[gkent]

Ironically I had just deleted this last night. Had to go to a backup to find it !! I take no credit for the info below or the photo.


'The Pink Wire': Sniper needs the Pink wire to have clean power during Run and Crank key positions. If you've got the Holley distributor - you don't need the ballast resistor, but the power wires to the resistor are Run and Crank. Originally I attached them w a diode to prevent any current going the wrong way, but there ended up being a flat spot between the run and crank in that key position that disrupted the Sniper computer. I added a 'Delay Relay' to this circuit. (74985 www.delcity.net ) The delay relay triggers on the Run wire and keeps the pink wire energized for a (user) specified time through the time of crank. This solved the crank/start problem, but also allows the cooling fans to run after I turn the car off. (up to 3 minutes)

I jumped the IGN1 and IGN2 circuits right at the ignition switch. (1968 it's in the dash) If the switch is in the column you'd have to do this in the harness somewhere. On my '71 Duster I did it behind the ignition switch connector. This is the same idea/method when you use an MSD. No break between key positions.

 

[threewood]

If your ballast is gutted, you can run the pink wire to the run/crank side.

 

[Belchfire 5000]

Thanks to everybody that has responded. My ignition is stock at this time but hopefully I'll try the Hyperspark in the near future. In the meantime I'll see if the starter relay will work and if not do the switch jump. Thanks again, this forum is great!

 

[kiwigtx]

Thanks to everybody that has responded. My ignition is stock at this time but hopefully I'll try the Hyperspark in the near future. In the meantime I'll see if the starter relay will work and if not do the switch jump. Thanks again, this forum is great!

Honestly...you will get a lot more detailed help with a few pictures of your situation. Otherwise you'll get answers that are really no better than guessing here.

Pictures speak a thousand words.

 

[kiwigtx]

Thanks to everybody that has responded. My ignition is stock at this time but hopefully I'll try the Hyperspark in the near future. In the meantime I'll see if the starter relay will work and if not do the switch jump. Thanks again, this forum is great!

Put a loop between IGN1 and IGN2 - the loop keeps power on in Ignition and Crank positions on the ignition switch....in other words your Pink wire stays 'hot' when cranking.

I did much the same as @gkent above....just a slightly different switch unit on my truck.

 

[Loulang]

That is what I did and works great. Mine is just on the sniper 1 system, same concept

 

[kiwigtx]

That is what I did and works great. Mine is just on the sniper 1 system, same concept

Same here with the original Sniper 1.

 

[matthon]

I installed a ground and positive hub under the dash, as well as a ground hub next to the battery.
No more running/splicing wires together, bad connections, multiple wires on the battery terminals, etc.

Iirc, I ran both the ignition and start wires to the positive hub, it also has the voltage gauge on it.
All screwed down with round connectors and sleeves on the wires.
Good solid connections on expandable hubs.