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Swapping a Borgeson steering box in a 1970 Charger

I had an idea for dealing with the need for a spacer behind the Borgeson steering box - how about a big fat lock washer instead of a regular washer? Than you wouldn't be cranking down on an edge.
 
Well everything was going great until I stripped this bolt -

stripped_bolt.JPG


I use a torque wrench so this kind of thing doesn't happen, but there it is anyway. So, why didn't the torque wrench click at 100 lbs/ft? It clicked for the other two bolts. Does an extension throw it off?

I'm really kicking myself over this one. I can't bear the thought of taking this stuff apart again. I was asking myself when the wrench was going to click over, but I thought it felt tighter than it really was because of the bad angle I was working from, and because I had to turn the bolt in the tiniest incremements due to the tight space between the torsion bars and the tranmission housing.
 
Maybe the bolt itself lost a few threads, not the K member. Try backing it out and take a look. Maybe a new bolt would have cleaner and fresh threads.
I don't understand the need for 2 washers. I used a flat washer and red Locktite. Mine have not moved in 18 months and I crank the wheel like I'm driving slalom courses!

Bad mu fu.jpg
 
I took my old man nap and now I'm wondering how I stripped a 3/4" bolt with the strength of only one arm, working in an awkward position? A 3/4" bolt is rather stout. It doesn't seem possible. And why didn't my torque wrench click over? I bet if I test it on the other two bolts it will be just fine.
 
Well everything was going great until I stripped this bolt -

View attachment 1546409

I use a torque wrench so this kind of thing doesn't happen, but there it is anyway. So, why didn't the torque wrench click at 100 lbs/ft? It clicked for the other two bolts. Does an extension throw it off?

I'm really kicking myself over this one. I can't bear the thought of taking this stuff apart again. I was asking myself when the wrench was going to click over, but I thought it felt tighter than it really was because of the bad angle I was working from, and because I had to turn the bolt in the tiniest incremements due to the tight space between the torsion bars and the tranmission housing.
Check that it isnt the actual nut that is welded to the K-member that did come loose.
This was the case on my car when I took off my original box the very first time.

I had to jam a screwdriver in the hole to the right on the welded on steering k-member bracket to lock the nut.
I later noticed that it was possible to fit a wrench into the hole that fit the nut.

When the nut was removed I grinded the hole bigger, put the nut back with glue on the back then carefully welded between the nut surface and k-member hole.
Having a bolt in the nut to not get weld spots on the threads.
 
I took the bolt out and some of its threads were stripped. I'll get pics tomorrow. I put another one of the original bolts in and tightened it down, but I didn't try to crank it to 100 ft/lbs. It's got a lock washer under it, is it really going to go anywhere? If it does, surely I'll notice the steering getting sloppy.

Maybe it is time to replace the original bolts though? They are 51 years old.

I don't believe I had a nut on the back of my frame. It's more like an extra bit of steel plate which I presume is welded on. I'm not done under the car, so I'll keep an eye out for any nuts that may have fallen off. QA1's instructions show nuts being used on one of their k-members, but I don't think it's for my application. Perhaps a nut could be put on the back though, if it's possible to reach up in there.

Speaking about the steering itself, I noticed it doesn't take much, if any, movement of the wheel before the brakes are turning (no wheels on ATM). It's a far cry from making a 1/4 turn of the wheel before seeing any action. I'm definitely looking forward to driving the car again.
 
I didn't measure the torque when I installed mine. I just slathered the threads with Locktite and tightened it to what felt right.
 
Well everything was going great until I stripped this bolt -

View attachment 1546409

I use a torque wrench so this kind of thing doesn't happen, but there it is anyway. So, why didn't the torque wrench click at 100 lbs/ft? It clicked for the other two bolts. Does an extension throw it off?

I'm really kicking myself over this one. I can't bear the thought of taking this stuff apart again. I was asking myself when the wrench was going to click over, but I thought it felt tighter than it really was because of the bad angle I was working from, and because I had to turn the bolt in the tiniest incremements due to the tight space between the torsion bars and the tranmission housing.
I stripped the threads on a strut arm once - it's somewhere around 100 lbs torque also. The culprit - the threads were lubed and that increased the torque, thus resulting in failure. Make sure threads are dry.
 
***UPDATE***

Today I went out for a 20 minute drive in the car. Mary came along.
I rarely drive the car in the Winter. This goes back to the early days of owning the car. Then, the lack of a heater made it uncomfortable. I'd maybe drive it once a month from November to February. Back then, it ran rough, would spit and sputter until it warmed up and knock on the "seasoned" months old gasoline.
The car hasn't been driven in a a couple of months.
I noticed that it felt like I had to awaken it from the slumber. The engine ran fine, the transmission and clutch felt great and the brakes were fine.
The steering assist was slow to build and remain steady. I don't know if the 45 degree weather had an effect but it pulled to the right slightly and felt like the pump wasn't keeping up. The wheel was slow to return to center after a turn despite a proper alignment last year and no "curb hopping" since then.
I have this fluid in the pump:

Borg 99.jpg



It was recommended back when I did research on this swap. Since then, I've seen all sorts of other fluids being suggested.
I have no complaints...Once the car warmed up, it all felt fine. Steering assist was great, it wasn't pulling to either direction either.
I just wanted to mention that cold weather operation post hibernation gave me a few moments of less than stellar performance that cleared up once I drove it awhile.
Cheers.
 
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strange. Thanks for the update.
You should drive mine now since it sat for a few weeks in the same weather, but it has the Driven fluid instead.
 
I only drove yours from the shop to the house, then back again. The brakes feel touchy with the choke keeping the idle high!
the steering felt fine though. Maybe the fluid we used in your swap is a better choice. It is that "Driven" brand.

1704351976262.png

Maybe the synthetic is better in colder weather?
 
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Thanks for the info.
I also want to do some cold tests with my Redline oil, though it will be a bit of shoveling first.

IMG_20240104_130330.jpg
 
Thanks for taking the time to take pics and include explicit and detailed information. I've ordered a Borgeson box kit and cooler along with the Bergman connector for my '72 Satellite. It's the first steering box I've changed so need all the help I can get.
 
You are welcome, Kiwi.
I love writing about these project topics. There are times I think that I should have been a magazine writer but you know what happened to them...
 
People will say the following and not really mean it, but I truly do:
Feel free to contact me.
I love to help others when I can. It is great to be able to pass along something that can help others get through a difficult project. There are a few members on this site that really stepped up to help me when I've struggled and I want to do the same.
 
Feel free to contact me.
I love to help others when I can
I feel the same way.
Once only once I PM'ed a member to ask about a electrical question, the response was disturbing.
It said NEVER contact me in anyway.Never PM me as I do not answer questions.
If I feel like it I will post only in a open forum.
Nice guy.....
 
How did you get the seal for the coupler over the dowels on the steering shaft? Will it tear the seal if I try to wedge it over with a screwdriver? Is the seal in the photo the correct position to slip onto the shaft?

20240205_135854.jpg
 
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